Leaking Coolant Reservoir Pipe - Part Number Help?

[jasperlaw]

Hello, new to the forum and hoping someone can help me identify the right replacement part for my leaking coolant reservoir.

I have isolated the leak to be the molded hose running out of the bottom of the coolant reservoir (where it attaches with a clip to the reservoir) which looks to have just degraded over time. I believe I've found the replacement hose but am not 100% sure if it's the right one - hopefully someone could help point me in the right direction.

Gates Pipe-2 To Reservoir HVAC Heater Hose for 2002-2006 Jeep Liberty 3.7L om | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Gates Pipe-2 To Reservoir HVAC Heater Hose for 2002-2006 Jeep Liberty 3.7L om at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.ca

I am thinking it would also be wise to replace the clips at the same time so if anyone has any advice on where to get those too that would be great - is it a terrible idea to use a hose clamp, avoiding over tightening?

'03 Jeep Liberty Sport 3.7L v6
Based in Vancouver, BC if that helps with part sourcing

 

[burntkat]

Gates 19297 is what you need.

HIGHLY recommend keeping the existing clamp. It is superior to screw clamps (except if you already used screw clamps on the replacement hose, in which case you collapsed the hose and won't have proper tension.

Recommend you go ahead and replace ALL the rubber hoses (with GATES hoses. Save some money at Rockauto on them) on the heater circuit while you are at it. If you don't, they will leak, and in short order will kill your #4 and 6 coil, plug, and injector. If you don't stay in top of the leak, this will lead to overheating, which will lead to doing a head resurface job (which also means time to do the lifters, and a timing set while you're at it, as the guide are probably broken).

Ask me how I know. That's been my September.

 

[burntkat]

More info:
You can do the heater hose replacement one of 2 ways...
1 - spend 200 bucks or so for the Dorman assembly with the rubber hoses and aluminum lines altogether. Or....
2- if you have any mechanical ability at all, use a Dremel tool to cut along the hose where the aluminum sleeve is crimped over the hose. It's only about 1/8" deep before you're into rubber. Cut along that (NOT THE PIPES!), peel off the metal bit with a flat blade screwdriver, and pull the hose off. What is left is ready for hose install.

Again I highly recommend the spring clamps in lieu of screw clamps. They are far superior if you install them properly (really not hard, more info if you need it)

Part numbers for the hoses to replace the bits you removed:

(all Gates)
18739 - pipe 1 to heater
28466 - pipe 2 to engine
19297 - Res to pipe 2
22718 - pipe 2 to engine
21739 - pipe 1 to engine

Sorry for all the edits, had to track down the pipe mapping info. Do be aware that you will have to do some fitting on the hoses, especially the reservoir. But it is not rocket science. Measure twice, test fit, mark and cut.

I assume you know how to use hose clamps (spring or screw) properly, so will leave that out. I have that info if you need it. The spring clamps are a right bitch without the proper tool. The proper tool is $20 on Amazon. WELL worth the money.

 

[burntkat]

Another thought -
My reservoir had a leak, where the pieces were welded along the flange. That leak presented as fluid right where you are asking.
If your reservoir turns out to be the issue, get the Dorman part. Yes, it is 3 times the price of the cheap on one rockauto - for a reason.

Assuming a 03 is similar, Dorman PM 603319 is the one you want. Use rockauto or your favorite LAPS to check application. It is $53usd now (Damn thing was 90 locally, last month)

I tried the cheap one. Two of them. The first clue was that the recirc hose that comes with it was literally vacuum line. I should have packed it back up and returned it, but talked myself out of it.

Pay the extra money.. The Dorman part is much better construction (you can literally feel the difference), and due to the highly questionable 'engineer' decision to put the res over #4 and 6, it can lead to catastrophic damage to the injectors/coils/plugs (and ultimately, the heads if you overheat it bad enough).

Screwing around with the cheap part cost me about $2000 in engine work (fortunately my son is a Jeep dealer mechanic and they allowed us to use their facility over two weekends, or it would have been a $3000 job)

But hey... Not bad for a free jeep, and I still don't have a car payment.

 

[jasperlaw]

Gates 19297 is what you need.

HIGHLY recommend keeping the existing clamp. It is superior to screw clamps (except if you already used screw clamps on the replacement hose, in which case you collapsed the hose and won't have proper tension.

Recommend you go ahead and replace ALL the rubber hoses (with GATES hoses. Save some money at Rockauto on them) on the heater circuit while you are at it. If you don't, they will leak, and in short order will kill your #4 and 6 coil, plug, and injector. If you don't stay in top of the leak, this will lead to overheating, which will lead to doing a head resurface job (which also means time to do the lifters, and a timing set while you're at it, as the guide are probably broken).

Ask me how I know. That's been my September.

Thanks everyone! Ordered the part and a new set of clamps, will post an update here if that fixes the issue

 

[burntkat]

Thanks everyone! Ordered the part and a new set of clamps, will post an update here if that fixes the issue

'Everyone' says you're quite welcome...

 

[jasperlaw]

Hmm, new part arrived and it's slightly different (see it next to the old one in the picture).

It doesn't curve up to the reservoir and the other end which runs to the metal pipe is longer than the old one.

It looks like I could bend it up to the reservoir - hopefully it won't kink over time. And I'm sure it could be cut to the right length but before cutting it and ruining a part which could be returned I thought I'd post here and see people's thoughts.

 

[burntkat]

Hmm, new part arrived and it's slightly different (see it next to the old one in the picture).

It doesn't curve up to the reservoir and the other end which runs to the metal pipe is longer than the old one.

It looks like I could bend it up to the reservoir - hopefully it won't kink over time. And I'm sure it could be cut to the right length but before cutting it and ruining a part which could be returned I thought I'd post here and see people's thoughts.

It will work fine. Recall, I said they are 'trim to fit'.
Test fit, measure twice. Cut once. Lather, rinse repeat. Make sure there is a good radius, not a kink, when you make the bend.

 

[jasperlaw]

It will work fine. Recall, I said they are 'trim to fit'.
Test fit, measure twice. Cut once. Lather, rinse repeat. Make sure there is a good radius, not a kink, when you make the bend.

Excellent! Appreciate the confirmation before I hacked into it!

 

[burntkat]

How'd it go?