Leaking pinion seal

[ThatsMrGimp2U]

As the title suggests my pinion seal is leaking at the front of the differential. I have bought the seal and want to tackle the job this week. It LOOKS like a fairly straightforward installation provided everything is marked properly. But, people who have not done it make it seem like an impossible feat for even someone who's mechanically inclined. And in my situation the people who HAVE done it, don't really want to help. Lol. So I'm just looking for some insight from the people on this board who have done it. Thanks!

 

[M38 Bob]

After removing driveshaft make witness marks on pinion shaft and nut (I like to "dot" em with a center punch), then count the exposed threads at witness marks. Use whatever seems most appropriate to remove old seal. Seat new seal very carefully by tapping it in place in a star pattern, or better use a deep seal driver tool. Care is still very important, as seals are easily bent/damaged. Fortunately they're cheap enough that if you ruin one or two it's still cheaper than hiring it done (and you gain the experience). Inspect pinion yoke for a groove where the old seal ran. There's always a polished line where it made contact, a groove must be pretty deep to actually cause a problem. There's a cure for damaged yokes if needed;

http://www.skf.com/us/products/seals/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf

But seldom required.

After seal's in place, scuff the yoke contact surface with emery cloth, remove debris, lube with a smear of chassis grease, and install. Being careful to align witness marks with thread count being correct. Fill.

Sounds a lot more complicated than it is.

Bob

 

[M38 Bob]

As a side note, pinion seals usually leak from 3 reasons; 1 Overfill. 2 Plugged vent line. 3 Grass/string/fishing line getting wrapped around yoke and cutting them.

Bob

 

[4x4kayak2112]

The d30 uses a crush sleeve to set the pinion depth. So the count threads exposed isnt the best way.......you need tools to do it right. Why potentially ruin a set of 400 dollar gears to save $60??

You mess up the pinion depth, and now your spending some nice cash...

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[M38 Bob]

4x4 He asked how to do it, not if he should or not. Been using witness mark and count for 30 years, no issues. If you have a better non-specialty tools method, I'd love to learn it.

Bob

 

[tommudd]

Since the OP never said which was leaking front or rear we can not assume its the D30a. Of course since both are set up pretty much the same what applies to one applies to the other. As far as say the 8.25, I've done the count on a bunch of them over the years, both on mine and others. The rear diffs we swapped out for 4.10 swaps were done that way when we switched yokes, with no issues.
SO while it may not be the approved way it does work the way M38 stated
Now I did help on one that leaked and told him it would leak again since it had a groove worn in, and he had to have everything replaced( was going to go 4.10s anyways in the future)

 

[M38 Bob]

"Now I did help on one that leaked and told him it would leak again since it had a groove worn in,"

Tom if you've never tried the "shaft saver" sleeves I linked to in above post you really should check em out. A thin precision drive on stainless band to cover the grooved area. Has a pre-scored shoulder to allow it to be lightly tapped on with a provided tool and a hammer. After it's in place you pull/tear off the shoulder and a new seal ends up running on a slick, stainless surface that's approx 15/1000ths larger diameter than original. Just about the handiest thing since teats on wimmin.

Bob

 

[tommudd]

"Now I did help on one that leaked and told him it would leak again since it had a groove worn in,"

Tom if you've never tried the "shaft saver" sleeves I linked to in above post you really should check em out. A thin precision drive on stainless band to cover the grooved area. Has a pre-scored shoulder to allow it to be lightly tapped on with a provided tool and a hammer. After it's in place you pull/tear off the shoulder and a new seal ends up running on a slick, stainless surface that's approx 15/1000ths larger diameter than original. Just about the handiest thing since teats on wimmin.

Bob

Yes have used them before, this guy was heading out from my place and I noticed the leak ( bad) 2 AM is not a good time for parts stores to be open and he needed to be 400 miles down the road next day. Against better judgement away he went!
But the sleeve does work in a lot of cases

 

[4x4kayak2112]

All I was saying its not the best way to do it......i have done it before in a pinch and it works well enough.

Those sleeves work wonders, saved a few that I have done.

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[tjkj2002]

4x4 He asked how to do it, not if he should or not. Been using witness mark and count for 30 years, no issues. If you have a better non-specialty tools method, I'd love to learn it.

Bob

Going to have to agree with 4x4kayak2112 on this one.


While you may get lucky a few times in most cases I've seen that method end in failure resulting in a expensive replacement.


When in doubt best to do it correctly or just put a new crush sleeve in and start from scratch(easier method).




Also don't forget to use a new pinion nut,they are a 1 time use only lock nut.

 

[M38 Bob]

In a perfect world,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Bob


EDIT So, TJ, too much bother telling the OP the correct, no fail method, tools and training to do it properly in his garage/carport? These peons too dense and undeserving of your superior intellect? Or just more satisfying busting my balls?

What's "been your experience" may be because somebody didn't do it right the wrong way. Worked for me over a 45 year career, two mentors both WWII vets. One who's passed on and another who's STILL twisting wrenches.

 

[tjkj2002]

In a perfect world,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Bob


EDIT So, TJ, too much bother telling the OP the correct, no fail method, tools and training to do it properly in his garage/carport? These peons too dense and undeserving of your superior intellect? Or just more satisfying busting my balls?

What's "been your experience" may be because somebody didn't do it right the wrong way. Worked for me over a 45 year career, two mentors both WWII vets. One who's passed on and another who's STILL twisting wrenches.

Sorry not putting up a novel when the it's easily found on the internet.


And sorry throwing up the BS flag on a WWII vet still turning wrenches,he maybe able to pick one up.Not saying anything bad but at almost 90 or older your claims are a bit of a reach.

 

[u2slow]

I side with M38 Bob on the feasability of changing the pinion seal alone. I've done it myself on other vehicles (with fingers crossed). It may be a little daunting for the first-timer.

IMO, the caveat is doing that method on a diff where the bearings are too far gone in the first place.

 

[M38 Bob]

And sorry throwing up the BS flag on a WWII vet still turning wrenches,he maybe able to pick one up.Not saying anything bad but at almost 90 or older your claims are a bit of a reach.

So is your cocksure arrogance. Mr. L.D. (Lon) Hoggard is 86, still running his own shop, doing estimates, parts pickup, billing, and occasionally assisting his grandson with hands on work.

Sir, you may be the worlds greatest automotive technician, in a class of your own, but that could well be because nobody else wants to be in class with you.

Best,

Bob

 

[4x4kayak2112]

And sorry throwing up the BS flag on a WWII vet still turning wrenches,he maybe able to pick one up.Not saying anything bad but at almost 90 or older your claims are a bit of a reach.

So is your cocksure arrogance. Mr. L.D. (Lon) Hoggard is 86, still running his own shop, doing estimates, parts pickup, billing, and occasionally assisting his grandson with hands on work.

Sir, you may be the worlds greatest automotive technician, in a class of your own, but that could well be because nobody else wants to be in class with you.

Best,

Bob

I side with M38 Bob on the feasability of changing the pinion seal alone. I've done it myself on other vehicles (with fingers crossed). It may be a little daunting for the first-timer.

IMO, the caveat is doing that method on a diff where the bearings are too far gone in the first place.

Sorry not putting up a novel when the it's easily found on the internet.


And sorry throwing up the BS flag on a WWII vet still turning wrenches,he maybe able to pick one up.Not saying anything bad but at almost 90 or older your claims are a bit of a reach.

You must be registered for see images attach

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[4x4kayak2112]

Really, honestly, I could care less how the OP does it at this point, he could use Harbor Freight screw drivers and a rusted pipe wrench to do the job.

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[ThatsMrGimp2U]

Well then... Post seems to have gotten out of hand pretty quickly. I did it the way most seem to on youtube. Just marked everything and put it back the way it was. The seal was doing something weird though... Whenever it was pushed in it would slowly come back out. Finally got it where the lip of the seal had maybe a 16th of an inch of gap to the diff and it no longer moved. So far no leaks, grinding, or anything else out of the ordinary. If something does happen to fail I will post up here and edit my first post as deter others from doing this the "wrong" way.

 

[M38 Bob]

You say "push in"? Not tapped in with hammer,etc? Something not right if it pushes in by hand, and will likely fail. I'd guess an out of spec seal OD.

Bob

 

[ThatsMrGimp2U]

You say "push in"? Not tapped in with hammer,etc? Something not right if it pushes in by hand, and will likely fail. I'd guess an out of spec seal OD.

Bob

It was tapped in with a jigundous socket that was pretty much spot on with the face of the seal.

 

[M38 Bob]

Sounds better, still can't imagine a seal "backing out".

Bob