Lifting a Daily Driver

[dude1116]

I keep reading about pounding the pinch weld - where is the pinch weld located?

I actually just did mine. Make sure to paint it up real good when you're done.

 

[Ohio-white-kj]

I did the 827/948 springs ad also OME shocks. It's a 99% daily driver - but will beat the hell out of dirt roads, OBX SAND, and the occasional mud. Not afraid to take it about anywhere.

Stock 17" wheels (it's a Limited - *****).

What I wanted - and got was a much improved street ride.

 

[tommudd]

I did the 827/948 springs ad also OME shocks. It's a 99% daily driver - but will beat the hell out of dirt roads, OBX SAND, and the occasional mud. Not afraid to take it about anywhere.

Stock 17" wheels (it's a Limited - *****).

What I wanted - and got was a much improved street ride.

927 front springs , not 827 so as not to confuse anyone :gr_grin:

 

[wheeee32]

The main thing is read all the information on here and ask questions on anything you aren't sure about. We'll gladly help as much as possible so that you can avoid the mistakes that some of us have made.:icon_lol:

 

[tigerKJ]

The main thing is read all the information on here and ask questions on anything you aren't sure about. We'll gladly help as much as possible so that you can avoid the mistakes that some of us have made.:icon_lol:

That is my plan! I will also post pictures of before and after and I'll add my before and after ride/lift height numbers to the sticky.

So far it looks like I am going to go with one of the Tommudd Econo 3.5" lifts from JBA. Have to think which version to purchase.

I know I will need to get the bump stops. Since I will be dismantling the front end anyway, should I get new front lower control arm bushings where the clevis attaches and new front strut mounts?

 

[HoosierJeeper]

You could, although I've never really heard of anyone replacing them. Mine are factory with 143k on them. If they aren't making noise now I'd leave them. Front end is easy to disassemble down the road if they do need to be replaced eventually.

 

[tommudd]

That is my plan! I will also post pictures of before and after and I'll add my before and after ride/lift height numbers to the sticky.

So far it looks like I am going to go with one of the Tommudd Econo 3.5" lifts from JBA. Have to think which version to purchase.

I know I will need to get the bump stops. Since I will be dismantling the front end anyway, should I get new front lower control arm bushings where the clevis attaches and new front strut mounts?

Either one( OME or Ironman) are good, way better than stock
if Ironman get the 1/2 inch clevis, if OME get the 3/8s
Other than that which ever you choose
Check with Marlin on the strut fork bushings, he can help you out there if you need to replace ( not sure if I'm letting anything out too early or not ):emotions34:

 

[tigerKJ]

Either one( OME or Ironman) are good, way better than stock
if Ironman get the 1/2 inch clevis, if OME get the 3/8s
Other than that which ever you choose
Check with Marlin on the strut fork bushings, he can help you out there if you need to replace ( not sure if I'm letting anything out too early or not ):emotions34:

I will talk with JBA before I purchase. Thanks for the heads up!

 

[tigerKJ]

I have also noticed that some members are using the front and rear coil spring isolators. I understand where they go, but I don't understand why you use them? Is it a noise issue, for lift, or some other reason?

Again, thanks to everyone helping me with my questions!

 

[iiTempesT]

I have also noticed that some members are using the front and rear coil spring isolators. I understand where they go, but I don't understand why you use them? Is it a noise issue, for lift, or some other reason?

Again, thanks to everyone helping me with my questions!

They used the isolators on the rear to add height to their lifts. When you buy the TM Econo lift it comes with 4 inch springs so there is no need to buy the isolators. You may need them when those springs start to sag though

 

[tommudd]

I have also noticed that some members are using the front and rear coil spring isolators. I understand where they go, but I don't understand why you use them? Is it a noise issue, for lift, or some other reason?

Again, thanks to everyone helping me with my questions!

You have isolators all the way around to start with, cushions the springs and also noise
In front you only use the stock ones, no extras
Rear you can add up to 2 uppers per side for 1 inch extra height

 

[4x4kayak2112]

You do what Tom says and learn as you go, but start with a good solid platform. Then just go from there and learn a few tricks to get you up to 4+"

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

 

[mx3_ryder]

Currently lifting my daily in the 3 inch range with absolutely no worries from all the great reviews I've read. I'm doing a 927/948 OME spring/Bilstein shock combo with JBA top plate and 1 extra iso in rear. Will post my own review when done with some before and afters. Good luck!!

 

[tigerKJ]

Yeah, I'm going to post before and after pics. I will try to get pics of during.

I did see a post about the JBA UCAs where someone (I think tommudd) had shown pictures of the holes in the fender well where the arms attach. The member removed the material to allow the arms to articulate better. Does anyone have a link to that post? I have used the search function here, but it either finds no posts or hundreds of posts. I don't think I'm using the correct search terms.

 

[CzarKJ]

Yeah, I'm going to post before and after pics. I will try to get pics of during.

I did see a post about the JBA UCAs where someone (I think tommudd) had shown pictures of the holes in the fender well where the arms attach. The member removed the material to allow the arms to articulate better. Does anyone have a link to that post? I have used the search function here, but it either finds no posts or hundreds of posts. I don't think I'm using the correct search terms.

If you do get the a-arms the instructions have all the pictures right on them of what to do!

Here is a link on the JBA site.
Jeep Liberty Upper A-arm pockets

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[tigerKJ]

That was what I was looking for, I thought it was a thread here on the forum. My bad!:Stupid Me:

 

[tommudd]

That was what I was looking for, I thought it was a thread here on the forum. My bad!:Stupid Me:

No need to cut them out that far either really
We used to, not any more
now we just knock the lip over with a hammer on each one
Thats enough for more flex and the arm takes care of the rest
yes it works well :icon_lol:

 

[BorincanoKJ]

That something i need to work, when i install my a-arms i forgot to open the lib. Right now the a-arms is hitting below the lib and folding. Later i'll take a pic so you can see what i'm talking about.

 

[tjkj2002]

Like Tom I DD my KJ with 3.75" of lift for years all over the country,handled better then stock and running 265/75R16's with 4.10 gears.


For 4 years I DD my KJ with 9"+ lift and 35" tires(SFA'd it) and drove better yet then it ever did with IFS,drove it to MOAB many times even drove it to Kentucky for a wheeling trip.I still drive it a lot but I split the time with my 2nd vehicle now.

 

[tigerKJ]

Like Tom I DD my KJ with 3.75" of lift for years all over the country,handled better then stock and running 265/75R16's with 4.10 gears.

Since I am planning larger tires, I should look into 4.10 gears? I know right now it runs 3.73s and when I go to the larger tires my speedometer will be incorrect. Will my gas mileage suffer because of the 3.73s? And will 4.10s help with that and get my speedometer closer to being correct?