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Shankster

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then I put in an air locker I got from alibaba. If you search for the arb model number you can probably still find it. It came with a locker, pump, and harness for about a third of the price of an arb. Honestly the locker looks well made, but who knows.
Not going to set me off, in fact I'll try to stir the pot here :) I was looking at e-lockers for the Liberty's Chrysler 8.25 on Alibaba yesterday - shipped price is somewhere in the $370 - $420 range for a complete kit so pretty insane. I suspect one factory in China makes the air lockers and e lockers and then various companies sell them under their own name (AA [Adventure Awaits], XJX, TRE4x4, ORE4x4). Model number for the air locker is RD93 which almost certainly fits our Chrysler 8.25. The model number for the e locker looks to be ET93 but some conflicting info out there makes me wary about pulling the trigger. Seems there is a non c-clip Chrysler 8.25 out there and I can't tell for sure if the ET93 is for that one or for our c-clip version of the 8.25. Or maybe there are 2 versions of the ET93? C-clip and no C-clip? I've been asking questions and getting several "yes it fits your vehicle" answers but not sure if they're just desperate to make a sale and I imagine once they have your money they're not going to take returns.
Here are some e locker links:

Here is one for the air locker:

There are plenty of Dana 30 lockers on there too - same factory, same brands, but I'm going to stick with my Torsen on the front.

If the threatened 60% tariffs go into effect these diffs won't seem like such a bargain so some urgency here if anyone wants one. And if the delivery dates quoted are true (Feb) buying now might mean you get hit with massive tariffs / import fees when it reaches the US? Not sure how that works.
 

Rokk

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I put a Torsten in the rear, really wanted to keep the front open as much as possible. The brand of air-locker I got was HF I think. No-shipping at the time, only a long wait time. WOW, I just looked and they might be cheaper now. The auto lockers are just big chunks of metal so not much to fail. I might buy one of those just in case
 

Shankster

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Model number for the air locker is RD93 which almost certainly fits our Chrysler 8.25. The model number for the e locker looks to be ET93 but some conflicting info out there makes me wary about pulling the trigger.
Slight correction. The model numbers are not exactly the same across the board, The TRE4x4 model #s are TR93 for the air locker and TE93 for the E-locker. So are the TRE4x4 from the same factory as the rest? I'm guessing they are but who knows? Those are a bit more pricey but still a lot less than an ARB. They also quote a 2 or 3 week delivery time and the customer service is certainly better than the Alibaba sellers based on the response I got to my inquiry.
 

Shankster

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The auto lockers are just big chunks of metal so not much to fail. I might buy one of those just in case
I drive on snow and ice on mountain roads a fair bit and those auto lockers scare me. Loosing the rear end on Coal Bank, Molas or Red Mountain Passes in a snowstorm is not something I'd want to experience. That's why I went with a Torsen in the rear and why I'm looking at a selectable locker to replace it now.
 

Chris Lepper

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Not going to set me off, in fact I'll try to stir the pot here :) I was looking at e-lockers for the Liberty's Chrysler 8.25 on Alibaba yesterday - shipped price is somewhere in the $370 - $420 range for a complete kit so pretty insane. I suspect one factory in China makes the air lockers and e lockers and then various companies sell them under their own name (AA [Adventure Awaits], XJX, TRE4x4, ORE4x4). Model number for the air locker is RD93 which almost certainly fits our Chrysler 8.25. The model number for the e locker looks to be ET93 but some conflicting info out there makes me wary about pulling the trigger. Seems there is a non c-clip Chrysler 8.25 out there and I can't tell for sure if the ET93 is for that one or for our c-clip version of the 8.25. Or maybe there are 2 versions of the ET93? C-clip and no C-clip? I've been asking questions and getting several "yes it fits your vehicle" answers but not sure if they're just desperate to make a sale and I imagine once they have your money they're not going to take returns.
Here are some e locker links:

Here is one for the air locker:

There are plenty of Dana 30 lockers on there too - same factory, same brands, but I'm going to stick with my Torsen on the front.

If the threatened 60% tariffs go into effect these diffs won't seem like such a bargain so some urgency here if anyone wants one. And if the delivery dates quoted are true (Feb) buying now might mean you get hit with massive tariffs / import fees when it reaches the US? Not sure how that works.
Trying to figure out how to order one. (The top one)_ they don't make it easy
I tried TEMU but no electric lockers there. They do have a helical LS front diff for 197.00
 

Shankster

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Trying to figure out how to order one. (The top one)_ they don't make it easy
I tried TEMU but no electric lockers there. They do have a helical LS front diff for 197.00
Yep, that top listing has the best combo of warm fuzzy that it's the right one, and price. I did message the AA ET93 seller (3rd one down) 3 times and he's responded each time assuring me it's the right one. Still, if it's not correct you might have a hard time claiming it wasn't you that screwed up since the listing has so many errors and inconsistencies. It is the cheapest overall price though - $330 and Alibaba is offering a $20 discount on shipping for your first order so it's only like $347 or $354 all in (likely some tax too). I think I may pull the trigger today - bit of a gamble but there's some fun in that. He says 25 to 35 days shipping time.

I've never ordered anything off Alibaba but I have got a bunch of stuff (mainly bicycle parts) off Aliexpress which I think is the retail arm of Alibaba - if I've ever had an issue Aliexpress (not the seller) has refunded me no questions asked so I'd be pretty comfortable ordering off Alibaba. As far as I can tell you just sign up for an account, add your stuff to your shopping cart and check out (I'm assuming with Paypal since that's what Aliexpress uses). The guy says he'll create an order for me and send me a payment link. I told him to go for it so lets see what that looks like.
 

Shankster

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I went ahead and placed the order for the AA ET93 - didn't wait for him to send me anything (figured he was maybe trying to do it outside of Alibaba). $386 total. It was very straightforward - no different than ordering off Amazon or Ebay. I'll post back here if and when it shows up.

Let us know what you end up doing Chris Lepper and we can compare notes.

Anyone want a 8000ish mile Powertrax Grip Pro GT308229 Torsen rear diff?
 

Chris Lepper

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I went ahead and placed the order for the AA ET93 - didn't wait for him to send me anything (figured he was maybe trying to do it outside of Alibaba). $386 total. It was very straightforward - no different than ordering off Amazon or Ebay. I'll post back here if and when it shows up.

Let us know what you end up doing Chris Lepper and we can compare notes.

Anyone want a 8000ish mile Powertrax Grip Pro GT308229 Torsen rear diff?
Could you send a link? All I get is a "Contact provider button. I just want to buy it.
 

Shankster

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Could you send a link? All I get is a "Contact provider button. I just want to buy it.
Same link as above:

Pretty sure you need to sign up for an Alibaba account first. Then once signed into your account hit the "start order" button and it should take you through the process. I picked Paypal as my payment method since I wasn't comfortable giving them my cc number. Yesterday I was using my Chromebook but the messaging was tricky so I switched to my Windows PC and things were better so that may be a factor in ordering too. (I've had similar experiences in the past on other websites) Are you trying to use your phone? - I wouldn't. Double and triple check everything before going to the next page - I somehow made a typo in my address and can't find any way to go back and correct it - seller isn't responding but hopefully because it's outside business hours over there.

For that one I'm maybe 85% sure they'll send me the right part. For the XJX one (about $70 more all in) I'd have been 95% confident to get the right one (and to be able to easily argue the case if they did screw it up) - just saying you should weigh your risks and order accordingly. I may be sorry I didn't just spend that extra $70 on the XJX.
 

Chris Lepper

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I went ahead and placed the order for the AA ET93 - didn't wait for him to send me anything (figured he was maybe trying to do it outside of Alibaba). $386 total. It was very straightforward - no different than ordering off Amazon or Ebay. I'll post back here if and when it shows up.

Let us know what you end up doing Chris Lepper and we can compare notes.

Anyone want a 8000ish mile Powertrax Grip Pro GT308229 Torsen rear diff?
I was able to order the
I went ahead and placed the order for the AA ET93 - didn't wait for him to send me anything (figured he was maybe trying to do it outside of Alibaba). $386 total. It was very straightforward - no different than ordering off Amazon or Ebay. I'll post back here if and when it shows up.

Let us know what you end up doing Chris Lepper and we can compare notes.

Anyone want a 8000ish mile Powertrax Grip Pro GT308229 Torsen rear diff?
I went ahead and ordered the top one, the XJX ET93. Said they would send it out Saturday, unknown how long after that. I'll let you know what happens.
 

Chris Lepper

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So I ordered the AliBaba XJX 93ET locker for the rear, and a Temu Helical LS 197.00 for the front of my Jeep Liberty, 2006 Limited trail ready. Are these home install possible or best to take it in? I don't have a differential expander or a backlash measuring device. After I receive them and get them installed I'll follow -up with a review of sorts. Not a technical driver or rock climber just a grandpa that wants to get where I'm going and get back.
 

Shankster

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So I ordered the AliBaba XJX 93ET locker for the rear, and a Temu Helical LS 197.00 for the front of my Jeep Liberty, 2006 Limited trail ready. Are these home install possible or best to take it in? I don't have a differential expander or a backlash measuring device. After I receive them and get them installed I'll follow -up with a review of sorts. Not a technical driver or rock climber just a grandpa that wants to get where I'm going and get back.
I guess it depends on your comfort level with fairly technical mechanical work. I do all my own wrenching with no formal training so occasionally fail or learn a hard lesson. That said, I did install both diffs in my Liberty having never done it before. Won't say it was easy but I did have fun doing it and both turned out great. I don't think you need a diff expander. Chinese dial indicators and magnetic bases can be bought for $30 or $40 and they work just fine.

For the rear diff you'll need a special tool for the side adjusters - pretty cheap to buy or you can make one out of a piece of 1/2 black iron pipe and a threaded reducer pipe fitting (there are other designs out there). If you're going to replace the pinion bearing (a good idea if you have any significant miles on your axle) you'll need a BIG torque wrench (150 ft/lb I think) and some creativity to stop the yolk turning as you torque and a TINY torque wrench (10 to 20 in/lb I think) to fine tune the bearing loading. You'll also need to use a cutting wheel to cut the old pinion bearing off the yolk - tricky.

For the front diff you need to take the axle out of the vehicle which can be a challenge in itself. The Dana 30 uses a different method to adjust backlash which requires you to make (or buy) setup bearings (you ream out the inside so that they slide on and off the diff easily) - once you have the thickness of shims figured out behind each setup bearing (you need a stack of different thickness shims to try until you get it right) you press the real bearings on with the shims installed. I opted to not replace my pinion bearing (prev owner rarely if ever used 4wd so I reconned the original bearing had just been idling it's whole life) so didn't have to deal with that on the front so not sure of that process with the Dana 30.

I would get on youtube if I were you and watch a bunch of videos to help decide if you want to do it yourself. You should probably plan to have your vehicle out of commission for a few weeks - when I did it some things were broke, some bolts sheared during disassembly and I found other parts that had to be replaced as I removed the front axle - I was waiting for parts to be delivered that I hadn't anticipated changing.

Good luck!
 
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Chris Lepper

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I guess it depends on your comfort level with fairly technical mechanical work. I do all my own wrenching with no formal training so occasionally fail or learn a hard lesson. That said, I did install both diffs in my Liberty having never done it before. Won't say it was easy but I did have fun doing it and both turned out great. I don't think you need a diff expander. Chinese dial indicators and magnetic bases can be bought for $30 or $40 and they work just fine.

For the rear diff you'll need a special tool for the side adjusters - pretty cheap to buy or you can make one out of a piece of 1/2 black iron pipe and a threaded reducer pipe fitting (there are other designs out there). You also need to be able to press the new side bearings on to the diff - I have a hydraulic press but I guess you might be able to use a big vice. If you're going to replace the pinion bearing (a good idea if you have any significant miles on your axle) you'll need a BIG torque wrench (150 ft/lb I think) and some creativity to stop the yolk turning as you torque and a TINY torque wrench (10 to 20 in/lb I think) to fine tune the bearing loading. You'll also need to use a cutting wheel to cut the old pinion bearing off the yolk - tricky.

For the front diff you need to take the axle out of the vehicle which can be a challenge in itself. The Dana 30 uses a different method to adjust backlash which requires you to make (or buy) setup bearings (you ream out the inside so that they slide on and off the diff easily) - once you have the thickness of shims figured out behind each setup bearing (you need a stack of different thickness shims to try until you get it right) you press the real bearings on with the shims installed. I opted to not replace my pinion bearing (prev owner rarely if ever used 4wd so I reconned the original bearing had just been idling it's whole life) so didn't have to deal with that on the front so not sure of that process with the Dana 30.

I would get on youtube if I were you and watch a bunch of videos to help decide if you want to do it yourself. You should probably plan to have your vehicle out of commission for a few weeks - when I did it some things were broke, some bolts sheared during disassembly and I found other parts that had to be replaced as I removed the front axle - I was waiting for parts to be delivered that I hadn't anticipated changing.

Good luck!
Thanks for the info. I've got a press and can get a dial indicator at Harbor Freight. Not sure what you mean by "Side Adjusters" Big and little torque wrenches I have, but only 90,000 on the whole jeep so I think I'm going to risk the pinion bearing at this point (unless I see nasty's inside). So the rear sounds a little easier. Great talking to someone that's done it. I've done others but years ago on 60's vehicles.
 

KJowner

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The side adjustment is two hollow nuts with the side bearings in them, you screw them in or out to adjust the mesh.
The pinion needs an inch/lb dial torque wrench to set the rolling preload.
I think your probably right with leaving it, have a feel of the bearings once it's in bits and if it ain't broke.....
 

Shankster

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Thanks for the info. I've got a press and can get a dial indicator at Harbor Freight. Not sure what you mean by "Side Adjusters" Big and little torque wrenches I have, but only 90,000 on the whole jeep so I think I'm going to risk the pinion bearing at this point (unless I see nasty's inside). So the rear sounds a little easier. Great talking to someone that's done it. I've done others but years ago on 60's vehicles.
Sounds like you're well set up for the project then - have fun!

Back to those setup bearings for the front diff, I was able to finds some no-name cheap bearings on eBay ($20 for both https://www.ebay.com/itm/175705889112 - says for Alfa Romeo but was correct for the Dana 3 Super too). Once you get your new LSD you can get the ole die grinder out and ream the bearings out and have that work done before you start pulling apart the Jeep. For the actual bearings I finally pressed on I used KOYO LM501349 / LM501314 - high quality bearing for much less $$ than Timken etc.

I also remember finding the correct shim set was a challenge. Nothing listed the Liberty or if they did it was wrong. I ended up with Crown Automotive 5012450AA but not sure it had all I needed in the set (I might have had some others lying around I got in a diff rebuild kit that I used too?). There was a guy on eBay selling what appeared to be very complete sets for half the price but he was a real jerk and refused to answer my questions - I've a feeling those would have worked too but I didn't want to give him my business. Here is his listing:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/193216548875 - it looks like he may have actually taken my comments seriously since the listing appears to make sense now.

Other lessons I learned - when you have the front axle on the bench change out the outer bearings and seals (I believe the crap plastic bearings from newer Liberties can be tossed and steel roller bearings from older vehicles put in their place) - I didn't and they leak now so will need to do them with the axle in the vehicle - doesn't look terrible but much easier when the axle is out. The seals and bearings are inexpensive so good preventive maintenance in my opinion. Also, with the axle out you have easy access to other stuff - like your steering rack bushings so check them as they're prone to failure. I may be conflating projects (with a steering rack swap) but there are some big mounting bolts Jeep installed the "wrong direction" and instead of removing half the jeep you just back those bolts out a bit and cut them off - then install new bolts from the other direction when you're putting the axle back in. There are strings on here you can find with tips for removing the front axle that save time over the factory shop manual method. I think the oil filter becomes super easy to access too so an oil change ain't a bad idea either.

 

Shankster

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Oh, another biggie I just thought of - I believe it is the rear diff where the ring gear bolts are reverse (left) thread so be sure to loosen them "righty-loosey" or you'll twist the heads off. Guess how I figured that out :)
 

u2slow

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ring gear bolts are reverse (left) thread so be sure to loosen them "righty-loosey" or you'll twist the heads off. Guess how I figured that out :)

I did that too. Doh.
 

duderz7

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Shankster has some good pointers. Rack bushings and engine mounts were both replaced when I had my diff out. They were super easy to get to.
 

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Chris Lepper

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Oh, another biggie I just thought of - I believe it is the rear diff where the ring gear bolts are reverse (left) thread so be sure to loosen them "righty-loosey" or you'll twist the heads off. Guess how I figured that out :)
Ha ha ha ha. Thanks I probably would have
Shankster has some good pointers. Rack bushings and engine mounts were both replaced when I had my diff out. They were super easy to get to.
That's a good thought! Fix'em while they're in front of you.
 

KingKJ

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I just found this locker for sale at arb for jeep liberty, this should be something that works for the liberty, but is it fine to have a fully locking differential for the front differential? Or is it something I should avoid doing due to how the front end is constructed(strength issues)
 

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