Loosing coolant

[JeepWoman13]

Found a small leak on the one heater hose where the crimp is. So decided I would change them out along with the reservoir. Did all that and burped it using the funnel tool. Use my Stant tester it holds 16lbs with no problem. Pass floor is dry, no antifreeze smell anywhere, but still have to keep adding more coolant. Never bled one of these before, is it possible I still have air trapped. Runs and drives smooth, no overheating, and inside heat will roast you out. 05 Liberty Sport 151k

 

[MarksmanAkula]

Found a small leak on the one heater hose where the crimp is. So decided I would change them out along with the reservoir. Did all that and burped it using the funnel tool. Use my Stant tester it holds 16lbs with no problem. Pass floor is dry, no antifreeze smell anywhere, but still have to keep adding more coolant. Never bled one of these before, is it possible I still have air trapped. Runs and drives smooth, no overheating, and inside heat will roast you out. 05 Liberty Sport 151k

This may sound stupid, but are you loosing it in your oil? That's the first thing id check if I wasn't loosing it externally.

Did you also bleed from the bleeder port right before the engine on the upper hose? Should have a hex key plug, important to bleed from there to drain the heads of air. If not bled properly, the heads can hold air and cook the valve seats and drop them.

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- This video shows the location of that port.

 

[LibertyTC]

You can check your oil level and look for any milky substance on dipstick, or bubbles.
Hope you are using the correct HOAT or Zerex-G-05 coolant only.
Once the Jeep is cold overnight, fill to the cold line on reservoir/tank.
It may take a few days of adding a bit when cold to get it really topped up, as air may still be trapped in the system.
To remove air when hot, crack the hex bleeder counter clockwise applying downward force.
That hex is initially hard to break free.
Some coolant will then come out and tighten hex once no air bubbles are seen. Have absorbent towels handy, wear gloves when hot.
You can see my tool set up to apply pressure down into the hex, then break it free.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[JeepJeepster]

Ive done a lot of staring at my 3.7 and Ive decided that bleed screw doesnt really need to be removed on the KJ. The air will bleed out quickly through the small hose by the top rad hose that goes to the reservoir. You should still remove it just to double check though.

Its imperative it be removed on the KK and WJ 4.7 though. The 4.7 in the WJ will hardly take antifreeze till you remove that plug.

 

[JeepWoman13]

You can check your oil level and look for any milky substance on dipstick, or bubbles.
Hope you are using the correct HOAT or Zerex-G-05 coolant only.
Once the Jeep is cold overnight, fill to the cold line on reservoir/tank.
It may take a few days of adding a bit when cold to get it really topped up, as air may still be trapped in the system.
To remove air when hot, crack the hex bleeder counter clockwise applying downward force.
That hex is initially hard to break free.
Some coolant will then come out and tighten hex once no air bubbles are seen. Have absorbent towels handy, wear gloves when hot.
You can see my tool set up to apply pressure down into the hex, then break it free.

You must be registered for see images attach

Supposed to warm up a little later today (0100 now) I'll pull that plug and see what happens. Went and pulled the plug cold, when I there was a big gurgle. Left it out for about 15 mins, looked and there was coolant right at the bottom of the threads. Put the plug back in and will see what happens.

 

[uss2defiant]

took almost half a year for me since we don't DD the KJ.
Keep driving and topping it up if your pressure test doesn't show signs of leaks.

 

[JeepWoman13]

took almost half a year for me since we don't DD the KJ.
Keep driving and topping it up if your pressure test doesn't show signs of leaks.

Will do, and I'll keep you up to date.