loving the ironman lift so far

[NJallDAY]

Install went amazingly smooth. Took about 2.5 hours with a little dicking around. Only problem i ran into was the lining up the fork to the lower control arm. Had to swing the camber into the negative to get it in and then pull it back as close as i could. Alignment time first thing tomorrow morning... bad new is i need ball joints all the way around. Probly get the jba ucas. Before and after pics and fender heights tomorrow

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

arty36:

Bob

 

[NJallDAY]

Yeaaaa im dancing banana happy lol

 

[Luke]

Sweet! ... I can't even imagine having room for a clevis lift ...:happy175: my front end is TIGHT!

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

Yeaaaa im dancing banana happy lol

Time to change your signature since the Ironman is now installed instead of sitting in boxes.

And go get it DIRTY!! :smokin:

Bob

 

[NJallDAY]

Sweet! ... I can't even imagine having room for a clevis lift ...:happy175: my front end is TIGHT!

It was hard man lol. I tried putting the clevis back on a bunch of diff ways and it just wouldnt go. I broke out a whizzie wheel and sanded off some powder coat from the bottom of the shock, helped but still no go. But for moving the camber in and out by eye i got it back really really close to where it was, im sure the alignment print out will be interesting haha. Cant wait to see how the lift feels once its running true

 

[NJallDAY]

Time to change your signature since the Ironman is now installed instead of sitting in boxes.

And go get it DIRTY!! :smokin:

Bob

Well i would love to go roll around in the mud. Well not "roll" but you get the point. Only thing holding me back is the terrible condition of my ball joints. Even the slightest bumps make such a god awful racket.... im guna go price out the bottoms and uca's from my buddy at the parts store. I dont have the scratch to get jba's since i now need a nice set of larger a/t's to fill the gap in my wheel wells lol

 

[tommudd]

It was hard man lol. I tried putting the clevis back on a bunch of diff ways and it just wouldnt go. I broke out a whizzie wheel and sanded off some powder coat from the bottom of the shock, helped but still no go. But for moving the camber in and out by eye i got it back really really close to where it was, im sure the alignment print out will be interesting haha. Cant wait to see how the lift feels once its running true

I guess you didn't use the rachet strap idea to pull the clevis in.
never had to loosen up the LCAs to do a lift before lots of extra work for nothing

 

[NJallDAY]

I guess you didn't use the rachet strap idea to pull the clevis in.
never had to loosen up the LCAs to do a lift before lots of extra work for nothing

It wasnt alot of work took 5 min each side. But now i have a pretty serious problem, my ball joints are shot. Like really shot, shot to the point the alignment shop said "noooooope". And i noticed when it was on the lift and there was no more tension on the suspension the uca hits the spring. Idk if its because the alignment is so far out or what. I was under the impression that the oem ucas would be fine. So what are my options? I know the jba's will fix me up good but i wont have that kind of cash soon enough. Will taking the clevis lift out give me enough play with oem arms until i get he cash for the jbas?

 

[Luke]

I was tempted to crank the LCA's out ... but I manned up, bought a race car tie down (5000lb breaking strength) and cranked that sucker to maximum tightness my cheap ratchet strap would not even get it close. That and a good crow bar was the answer.

Removing the clevis lift would give you a little room I would think ... but clearly ball joints are your priority. Personally I would not drive much for fear of creating a much bigger problem if they fail. If they are all bad your going to have a little play coming at you from all corners of your suspension... that won't help your tolerances.

 

[NJallDAY]

I was tempted to crank the LCA's out ... but I manned up, bought a race car tie down (5000lb breaking strength) and cranked that sucker to maximum tightness my cheap ratchet strap would not even get it close. That and a good crow bar was the answer.

Removing the clevis lift would give you a little room I would think ... but clearly ball joints are your priority. Personally I would not drive much for fear of creating a much bigger problem if they fail. If they are all bad your going to have a little play coming at you from all corners of your suspension... that won't help your tolerances.

Yea i hear ya. Im not sure what to do here, the uca hits the spring when almost all the weight is off the suspension and im not sure if its because the alignment is out and will be fine if i replace all the ball joints with oem and get the alignment or if it wont make a diff and end up compromising something else. I guess im just guna have to shell out for the jba set

 

[tommudd]

It wasnt alot of work took 5 min each side. But now i have a pretty serious problem, my ball joints are shot. Like really shot, shot to the point the alignment shop said "noooooope". And i noticed when it was on the lift and there was no more tension on the suspension the uca hits the spring. Idk if its because the alignment is so far out or what. I was under the impression that the oem ucas would be fine. So what are my options? I know the jba's will fix me up good but i wont have that kind of cash soon enough. Will taking the clevis lift out give me enough play with oem arms until i get he cash for the jbas?

Part of it is way out of alignment so that tends to make things worse, also until it gets settled in there maybe some issues as well

 

[NJallDAY]

Part of it is way out of alignment so that tends to make things worse, also until it gets settled in there maybe some issues as well

Thats what i thought. I gave marlin a call and he confirmed that as well. And he has def gained my trust, rather then push his uca on me he said i would fine replacing with the stocks until i can afford the upper, marlins a great guy in my book. So thats what ill do, do everything oem and save some cash for the jba set

 

[yellocoyote]

That, and it's not common to do the clevis lift in conjunction with another brand new lift. Most times, it sits your junk too high right from the start and can cause more issues than necessary until it's properly broken in. If it were my problem, I'd take the clevis lift out (for now) and tend to the ball joints... and go from there.

 

[NJallDAY]

What kind of mileage am i looking at to break these in?

 

[NJallDAY]

That, and it's not common to do the clevis lift in conjunction with another brand new lift. Most times, it sits your junk too high right from the start and can cause more issues than necessary until it's properly broken in. If it were my problem, I'd take the clevis lift out (for now) and tend to the ball joints... and go from there.

Im replacing all the ball joints tomorrow using stock uppers. Then once ive saved up a bit of cash ill order the jba set and swap them out

 

[NJallDAY]

Well i replaced the uca's but the bal joint press i have barely fits even with out any cups on it... The smallest cup in the kit is about twice as large as what i could fit. I saw a write up about lbj removal and they guy lowers the screw directly onto the stud. Mine are waaaay to far gone to do it without the plate, the stud just falls over. what kind of press' have you guys used?

UPDATE: Yesterday after work i drove my libby to my buddys shop and we finally got the lbj out and installed a nice st of moogs. I was hoping that would take of the god awful noise coming from my front end. Which it did... kinda... still got some front end noise, almost sounds like that hollow rattle you get when a strut is blown out ( which theyre not). I still havent gotten my kj aligned so idk if thats the problem or if its somthing out. I was thinking the lower control arm bolts backed off a little since we messed with camber or maybe everything needs to settle in. At my wits end with this so if anyone has an idea throw it out there. Ill try anything at this point.. thanks!