Low Beam issue

[phoenixblue2049]

Good afternoon all,

First I have a 2007 Jeep Liberty Limited. Second... I went on vacation on the 1st of July and my lights and everything worked. I get back from vacation on the 7th and turned my lights on and my left low beam light was out. A few days later my right low beam went out. I replaced the lights about 2 to 3 months ago, sylvania. I hear the relay engaging for the high and low beams. I replaced the multi function switch as well on the steering column about 2 months ago because I did not have turn signals or hazards.

Could someone please give me some insight on what this could be before I replace a relay and the BCM? I believe the grounds are fine because the high and low beams use the same grounds.... Thank you all so much in advance for any insight and help you can give me!

 

[Myke]

Are you getting any power to the sockets on low beam? Can test with a multimeter.

 

[Billwill]

Check the fuses in the Junction Block which is the internal fuse panel.

The Service Manual for the 2007 KJ seems near impossible to get but the 2006 KJ Service Manual should be close enough....download it here and go to Section 8W for the Wiring Diagrams.

Use a cheap digital Multi meter to trace +12 volts from the fuses and relays to the front light bulbs to see where the voltage is going missing and check that the grounds to each side are indeed present at the bulb itself.

Manual: Index of /manuals/Jeep/KJ

 

[Jeremy-WI]

I would use a test lamp instead of a multi meter as the multi meter can give false readings due to putting no load on the circuit

 

[Billwill]

I would use a test lamp instead of a multi meter as the multi meter can give false readings due to putting no load on the circuit

With all respect I disagree with you.
A test lamp shows you +12 volts but will not show you true continuity or partial shorts to chassis or current running through a system.

A test lamp is fine for tracing a voltage gone missing if no meter is available but a Digital Multi Meter can take you much further into the system. A cheap Multi Meter will do the job as fantastic accuracy is not needed here. We can always compromise by connecting a bulb across the meter leads to provide a load:emotions34:

 

[JasonJ]

I would use a test lamp instead of a multi meter as the multi meter can give false readings due to putting no load on the circuit

With all respect I disagree with you.
A test lamp shows you +12 volts but will not show you true continuity or partial shorts to chassis or current running through a system.

A test lamp is fine for tracing a voltage gone missing if no meter is available but a Digital Multi Meter can take you much further into the system. A cheap Multi Meter will do the job as fantastic accuracy is not needed here. We can always compromise by connecting a bulb across the meter leads to provide a load:emotions34:

I concur with Bill. While a test lamp would suffice, a DMM is more versatile overall and offers more flexibility in testing circuits. A test light should be in your toolbox, but not a primary tool for testing of this sort.