Major problem shifting from 4WD to 2WD - any ideas?

[AVR2]

For a few months now, my 2005 KJ has been making an underbody metallic tinkling noise that starts and stops with the rotation of the wheels. The last time it was in for service I asked if they could check underneath to see if anything was obviously loose, but they couldn't find anything.

Earlier today, I had to shift into 4WD to drive over some rough ground, and when I got back to the pavement and shifted back into 2WD, the car stayed stuck in 4WD. Not only that, but a horrible loud clattering metal-on-metal noise was coming from underneath when the car was in motion and the steering got very heavy, and I figured that whatever was causing that metallic tinkling noise had finally gone kaput in a big way.

I pulled over straight away, shifted into R and drove backwards for a little way (I've heard that this is a way of getting the car back into 2WD if it's slow coming out of 4WD) but that didn't seem to make any difference. So I tried going from D to N to D again, and after doing that a few times, the clattering noise stopped and the car was back to normal again.

It's going back to the dealer in a few days, but does anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem might be? Obviously I'm praying it's not going to be anything insanely expensive, but I'm assuming it's a transmission/transfer case thing

 

[tjkj2002]

What t-case do you have? If you have the full time option check your tires 1st,they all must be within 2-3psi of each other and no more then 2/32"-3/32" of each other also or shifting problems will occur.Check the front driveshaft also,the t-case side CV joint like to self destruct on the KJ's.

 

[Warren.fischbeck]

What t-case do you have? If you have the full time option check your tires 1st,they all must be within 2-3psi of each other and no more then 2/32"-3/32" of each other also or shifting problems will occur.Check the front driveshaft also,the t-case side CV joint like to self destruct on the KJ's.

The drive shaft was my first thought, but it may be a combo thing of the front drive shaft dying and the tires not letting the t/c come out of 4 WD. Even when you aren't in 4WD the front drive shaft is spinning and you should still hear the metal on metal. An easy test I did on mine was to crawl under the Jeep and see if there was any play in the shaft. I grenaded mine and saw what's in my sig, but you may just have a little play in yours.

 

[AVR2]

Thanks for that, guys. I think you're probably on the money, especially if it's a known issue with the KJ.

Two more questions if I may; are there any safety concerns about driving the car with this problem? And what am I likely to have to pay for replacement parts? I've done a quick Google and seen a KJ driveshaft for $369 - is that a good price/bad price/indifferent price?

 

[Warren.fischbeck]

If it ends up being the tires, that may just be air them up and go, or a new set of them if they are aired up but not with in the correct tread depth range. The drive shaft will run you about 400.00 depending on where you buy it from + labor. It should only take about 15/20 minutes for a tech to do it but I wouldn't be surprised if they charge an hour for it.

 

[Warren.fischbeck]

Forgot to address the safety issue. There is a safety issue if the front drive shaft is dying. You'll want to crawl under and see if there is any rotational play in it (there shouldn't be) It's really easy to take off if you need to. If memory serves its a 8 or 9mm bolts all the way around on both the transfer case and front differential.

 

[AVR2]

Hey guys,

Thought you might like to know you were dead-on. Got underneath, grabbed the driveshaft and it's definitely got rotational play.

 

[Warren.fischbeck]

Hey guys,

Thought you might like to know you were dead-on. Got underneath, grabbed the driveshaft and it's definitely got rotational play.

Get it replaced asap, pull it out if you cant fork over the $ to have it replaced. Them there drive shafts fail at the transfer case; the boot there blows IMO.

 

[tjkj2002]

Some rotational play,as in the driveshaft can be rotated up to 1/4 turn,is perfectly okay and is called drivetrain slack(slack between the gears in the front diff and the splines of the CV axles).Anymore then 1/4 turn of roatation and you got to much play and some attention is needed.If you can move the driveshaft up/down(not rotating) then yes the CV(s) may be bad.

 

[ThunderbirdJunkie]

For a few months now, my 2005 KJ has been making an underbody metallic tinkling noise that starts and stops with the rotation of the wheels. The last time it was in for service I asked if they could check underneath to see if anything was obviously loose, but they couldn't find anything.

Earlier today, I had to shift into 4WD to drive over some rough ground, and when I got back to the pavement and shifted back into 2WD, the car stayed stuck in 4WD. Not only that, but a horrible loud clattering metal-on-metal noise was coming from underneath when the car was in motion and the steering got very heavy, and I figured that whatever was causing that metallic tinkling noise had finally gone kaput in a big way.

I pulled over straight away, shifted into R and drove backwards for a little way (I've heard that this is a way of getting the car back into 2WD if it's slow coming out of 4WD) but that didn't seem to make any difference. So I tried going from D to N to D again, and after doing that a few times, the clattering noise stopped and the car was back to normal again.

It's going back to the dealer in a few days, but does anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem might be? Obviously I'm praying it's not going to be anything insanely expensive, but I'm assuming it's a transmission/transfer case thing

More proof that the only time serious issues arise is when somebody calls their Jeep a car...

 

[kjweston]

damn i've been down there observing things under my jeep and noticed the front shaft has play in it. has been a while since so i cant remember.. but tomorrow I'm going to have to go check it..

 

[ThunderbirdJunkie]

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[tjkj2002]

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Very carefully read part 1&2 in the link below before choosing to just put one u-joint on your OEM driveshaft.Stronger is not always better in driveshafts.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/index.html

 

[ThunderbirdJunkie]

Hmm.

Have to say, don't really see anything about a U joint at one end and a CV at the other...

Assumed the driveshaft shop knew what they were doing, so they were instructed to do as they pleased.

 

[tjkj2002]

Hmm.

Have to say, don't really see anything about a U joint at one end and a CV at the other...

Assumed the driveshaft shop knew what they were doing, so they were instructed to do as they pleased.

well to start you can't get that driveshaft "in phase".

A "in phase" shaft(same principle for a single u-joint at each end).........
The top shaft is "in phase",the bottom one is "out of phase"

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If you have a CV on one end you will have a "out of phase" driveshaft.

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[ThunderbirdJunkie]

aaaaaaaaaaah, THAT makes sense. Read that part but must have gone braindead.

Writing a stupid English paper tonight.

 

[RageOfFury]

Is there like a trick or something that I can do let's say after I've gone from Full Time 4WD to 2WD to test and make sure it's really back into 2WD?

 

[JeepKj03]

Well I'm sure there will be people that will disagree with me, but its truly the only way i can think of other then lifting the car up to see if both the axles turn. I do this on a hard packed surface, so the tires will not lose traction. I turn the wheel all the way to one end and put it in D or R and just give it a little bit of gas and let off. If it is still in 4WD the drive train will bind and not want to move. If it is in 2WD it will make the turn with no problem. Just don't try to drive away turned like that just incase your still in 4WD. You could potentially damage something.

 

[ThunderbirdJunkie]

Is there like a trick or something that I can do let's say after I've gone from Full Time 4WD to 2WD to test and make sure it's really back into 2WD?

Powerbrake it and if the tires light up, it's in 2wd

 

[ridenby]

Having been raised on IH,and Ford 4x4s I stop put transfer case in 2wd and back up a little,to"unwind" drive train.