Moment of truth

[Deb'nKJ]

Thought it was time to move on from my introduction, as this might well be the beginning of the end - so far as this KJ is concerned.

Wouldn't normally call it quits this time on a June evening (it's not yet 6 o' clock here) but the weather's cutting up rough - & I'm getting nowhere with replacing this axleshaft. As far as I can see, it's well nigh impossible without a whole lot more dis-assembly (lesson 1: the FSM is as full of lies as Mr Haynes infamous works).

I'm now actually worse off than I was when I gave up the unequal struggle to remove the hub. So, do I pay (assuming I can find somebody prepared to work on it) to get it fixed - or simply to come & take it away? (lesson 2: should've stuck to XJ's).

If your still with me, this is the position:
finally got the shaft out of the back of the bearing/knuckle but, of course, it can't be removed from the diff because it won't pass through the clevis fork - but nobody mentions that)
can't remove knuckle, which seemed like a good idea, to improve access, because the nut on the top ball joint won't turn (either way) although it's right at the end of the thread (oh, & using a rattle gun broke the taper so it just turns) - & that's all that's holding it on now.
still got to remove the hub - because the ABS sensor's sheared off!
(lesson 3: Jeeps of this era are more of a pita than Citroens - quite a revelation in itself)

Not quite in despair - but pretty close, so if anyone has the answer(s), please do tell.

 

[lfhoward]

Removing the hub can be a PITA if it is rusted to the knuckle. Get a sledge hammer and some PB Blaster and be prepared to hammer it for a while before it breaks loose. Did that job last year.

The clevis fork should be removable from the spring/shock assembly so you will be able to slide the CV out. There is one bolt clamping it to the shock tower.

Grab some ice water and a snack. Dehydration & low energy make the task seem 10x harder. And after a break, come back at it tomorrow. You’ll get it done.

 

[JRB]

Discovering the front diff bearing caps were cracked was one of the first immediate projects on mine a little over a year ago (shortly after I got it), very similar experiences.
-ball joint nuts were on so tight, even with oil I had to get a wrench on the end of a wrench for enough torque to slowly move back and forth, so much friction they would smoke the pene oil.
-drivers axle so tight in hub/bearing assembly a heavy sledge was not budging it, removed whole knuckle with axle stuck in and brought it to a press.
-plastic wheel speed sensor just crumbled at the sight of me wanting to remove it, (should of done at the plug, but if it was that brittle it was time for a new one anyway)

The rest of the project continued at that kind of pace hah. As lfhoward said, the clevis end can slip off of the shock for getting the axle out, and when really tired or over it, always a good time for a break.

As far as the hub stuck in there, while I was pressing out my axle I decided to separate the hub with the press as well. But since bearing is getting replaced, if no access to a press, you can use extra heat on it since its getting replaced.

Can't be tight if it's a liquid! (maybe not that much heat haha, want to save the spindle I'm sure.)

 

[turblediesel]

You've worked on Citroens?!?!?

 

[Deb'nKJ]

Thanks for rallying round so promptly guys. I really needed a little encouragement.

I know about the reputation these hubs but I've never had much difficulty (on a series of XJ's & a WJ) but the problem with this one is I couldn't shift the bolts - but I didn't know then they were Torx heads (says a lot for my 12 point socket that it didn't just round out). Will have to leave that 'til I have my T14 socket in the same place as the Jeep.

Last thing I did before packing up for the day was to douse the clevis fork pinch bolt in GT85 (no PB Blaster here - & airlines are funny about taking aerosols on board) - just in case. But the FSM doesn't mention that, see: "REMOVAL (1) Raise and support vehicle. (2) Remove wheel and tire assembly. (3) Remove half shaft hub nut. (4) Remove stabilizer link (Fig. 1). (5) Remove lower clevis bolt (Fig. 2). (6) Seperate lower ball joint from the lower control arm (Fig. 3). (7) Pull out on the steering knuckle and push the half shaft out of the knuckle. (8) With a pry bar remove the half shaft from the axle." Nope, NOT that simple!

Still, if I can get the shaft out I can, at least put the wheel back on before returning to it next weekend: it's out in the street - & have to think about the neighbours!

Then there's that nut on the top ball joint; think I'll have to cut that off - although enough heat to melt the nylon insert might do the trick.

Citroens? Yes a few (nothing too sophisticated though) but, as an example, changing axleshafts on the smaller ones is so simple (after you've done one) - & aftermarket ones are cheap - it's not worth fiddling about replacing CVJ boots.

 

[tommudd]

Pry down on the upper control arm to put pressure on the UBJ
Then tighten the ball joint nut, then loosen a bit, back and forth
Have never had one that had to be cut off in 18 years working on these KJs

 

[Deb'nKJ]

First, I'M sure this isn't KJ thing, it must either be the nut or the thread on the stud.

Hadn't tried your suggestion, but not sure I have enough hands. I did try with the Jeep supported on a floor jack under that lower control arm, which I would have thought had the same affect - but it didn't help.

By the time I was ready to start this morning it was starting to rain, which did nothing for my mood BUT I had to at least get it back on 4 wheels, before having to leave it for another week. The situation with that nut was very odd, because it had undone quite normally & was right at the end of the thread, but then wouldn't move - either way! Anyway, desperate situation calling for a desperate remedy, I applied a torch to the nut 'til I could see the nylon melting, then with vicegrips on the taper, I applied a little force to the nut - & it moved, so I turned it back that smidgeon - & then unwound it as though there'd never been a problem.

Then turned my attention to the clevis fork: what a performance that turned out to be & it seemed the forces required, in several directions, couldn't be reversed to re-assemble it. However, I needn't have worried, because with the "new" shaft installed (rather than disengaged from the splines, as the old one was) it was possible to offer the fork up straight to the strut. I was then sure that getting the bottom bolt in was going to be a real struggle, but it actually went together remarkably easily, if anything the swaybar link required more effort.

Anyway, it's all done now (that's why I logged on, when I saw your post), although I've still got to remove the hub, unless I can very carefully drill out the the remains of the ABS sensor.

For all my doom & despondency (blame my bad experience with a WJ for that) I do feel a sense of satisfaction for having overcome the obstacles & if the time comes that the other side needs doing I will tackle replacing the shaft, but I'm not getting involved in replacing the CVJ - or even a boot, but for the price of a shaft, I don't think that's worth all the aggravation.

I think the ball joints need replacing (deep joy) - although there was no mention of that at last inspection, so I might just see what happens this year, except it's on November.

Anyway, the KJ lives to fight another day. I couldn't have done it without all the advice (far more use than the FSM) & words of encouragement. Thanks, to all, sure landed on this forum at the right time &, maybe, my experience might encourage others who are not sure about undertaking such a task.

 

[tommudd]

LOL no it would not have the same effect ( prying down on the UCA vs jack

if lower ball joints are bad, DO NOT wait until November, one breaks and causes much more damage

 

[Deb'nKJ]

LOL no it would not have the same effect ( prying down on the UCA vs jack

if lower ball joints are bad, DO NOT wait until November, one breaks and causes much more damage

Don't both methods load the taper on the top joint? No! Oh well, I'll bear your advice in mind should I ever have the misfortune to have to do it again and encounter the same difficulties.

I don't think the ball joints are bad, but there is a little wear (as might be expected); if they were, it'd have been picked up at last inspection. Really have better things to do with my time & money than lavish them on something which has yet to convince me I ought to keep it. The idea was to run it for a year & if it didn't require much more than routine maintenance & I found I liked it, then think about giving it more attention. It's already borderline - but still not made up my mind.