Need help w/ coolant bleed screw

[uss2defiant]

Hi all,

I was working on my coolant issue when I decided to unscrew the bleeder screw by the top rad. hose to make sure it's not stuck.

However, after screwing it back it, I ran the engine to make sure that I had it tight enough. I made dang sure that the threads were in correctly.

Unfortunately, coolant kept seeping out so I slightly nudge it tighter as that had worked before in the past but coolant kept seeping out.

I fear that something is wrong w/ the thread on the block.

I'll be looking at it more closely in the morning but please help!!
Any thoughts/comments/suggestions?

Is there a torque value for that? I didn't see it in the fsm.

Thanks.

 

[ltd02]

I'd try a thread sealant like Permatex really just liquefied teflon:

Thread Sealants : Permatex® High Temperature Thread Sealant

 

[uss2defiant]

i tried tape the last time when I flushed it but that didn't work.
I'll try that sealant tomorrow.

 

[uss2defiant]

Correct if I'm wrong, that screw doesn't screw flush either right?

 

[profdlp]

Mine is pretty nearly flush.

 

[uss2defiant]

hmmm....... mine doesn't go in flush. it gets pretty tight about half way through.
Is that a problem?

 

[LibertyTC]

Here is a good photo of mine installed snug.
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[profdlp]

^Mine is similar.

 

[LibertyTC]

hmmm....... mine doesn't go in flush. it gets pretty tight about half way through.
Is that a problem?

Those are pretty fine threads, besides the ladies, you sure you did not strip something there? :icon_lol:
When cold, first thing in the AM follow post #2Permatex, and inspect threads closely.
May even want to have a new plug handy, just saying. :whip:

 

[uss2defiant]

Thanks.

Anyone know the details of the bleeder screw for a replacement?
Can't seem to find anything in the FSM.

 

[M38 Bob]

Never had one out, so I don't have first hand experience. Generally threaded connections seal one of three ways.

That appears to be simple pipe threads.

Pipe threads seal by using tapered threads on both pieces. As they screw together tolerances decrease until there's no void between them. At that point they usually seize and are destroyed when taken apart. That's why you use a sealant between them, to act as a lubricant, and fill voids. If that's what this plug is use both teflon thread tape and a pipe sealant. The best I've ever found is http://www.amazon.com/Rectorseal-25631-4-Ounce-Thread-Sealant/dp/B001P5F9X2 . It is for plumbers and will work in conditions far more stressful than anything found in a cooling system. USE BOTH!

Non tapered threads with a cap that has an interference fit with a machined surface (think oil drain plug) Must use a gasket between cap and machined surface.

Non tapered threads pushing a machined tip into a machined seat to seal. Best example would be a brake line. This is used on some GM bleeders, but they are totally different from the one pictured.

Bob

 

[uss2defiant]

This is what I found.
It's a Pipe. .375-18X.475
part number 06036308AA

My worry is that only halfway thread through, it gets so dang tight.
Hopefully even with it halfway threaded w/ the sealant it would work until I can get a replacement.

 

[M38 Bob]

This is what I found.
It's a Pipe. .375-18X.475
part number 06036308AA

My worry is that only halfway thread through, it gets so dang tight.
Hopefully even with it halfway threaded w/ the sealant it would work until I can get a replacement.

It's probably not solely the plug!!! The threaded hole likely has crud/corrosion buildup at the point where plug gets tight! Use a small wire brush on your cordless drill, or better yet a proper threading tap( Pipe. .375-18X.475) to clean out the threads in the housing. Money far better spent than on a new plug to screw into the same nasty hole. Then use thread tape and sealant. to install current plug properly.

Bob

 

[uss2defiant]

looks like my jeep will be down until I can get a replacement plug.

Looks like the first few threads (1 or 2) on the aluminum side broke halfway down.

The bottom of my existing plug still threads in fine and there's enough threads left that a new plug should work.

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How would something like this happen? wear and tear?
I noticed the thread on the plug was slightly off, most likely due to the aluminum embedded in it.

x.x unfortunately this is the only vehicle.

 

[LibertyTC]

Generally once you remove, you have to be careful & precise in the re-install department and lube it. Call the local dealer for a replacement.

Cordless drill/wire brush on threads, I'm way more gentle/ careful on threads.
I use a precision Q-Tips in a circular motion, to clean the gunk out of threads.
If there are any sharp edges, it shows, inspect things closely, even though a tap may be needed IDK.

 

[uss2defiant]

Cordless drill/wire brush on threads, I'm way more gentle/ careful on threads.
I use a precision Q-Tips in a circular motion, to clean the gunk out of threads.
If there are any sharp edges, it shows, inspect things closely, even though a tap may be needed IDK.

do you use a solvent of some kind?

 

[uss2defiant]

It's probably not solely the plug!!! The threaded hole likely has crud/corrosion buildup at the point where plug gets tight! Use a small wire brush on your cordless drill, or better yet a proper threading tap( Pipe. .375-18X.475) to clean out the threads in the housing. Money far better spent than on a new plug to screw into the same nasty hole. Then use thread tape and sealant. to install current plug properly.

Bob

Anything else I can use besides a tap?

 

[LibertyTC]

When cleaning threads, Just a very slight sniff of a de-greaser ( LPS Presolve) on Q-Tip, and if a sealer/lube is being used, then I re-clean threads afterwards with alcohol & dry it.

 

[uss2defiant]

Call the local dealer for a replacement.

Dealerships are closed today :/

 

[uss2defiant]

looks like my jeep will be down until I can get a replacement plug.

Looks like the first few threads (1 or 2) on the aluminum side broke halfway down.

The bottom of my existing plug still threads in fine and there's enough threads left that a new plug should work.

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Thanks for all the comments and suggestions!

I think that since the bottom of the plug (the good part) can still thread into the block and there is plenty of threads left I think I maybe able to put in a new plug once I clean everything up and use thread sealant.

Any thoughts on the current situation?
Thank you.