Need help w/ coolant bleed screw

[LibertyTC]

On the block side, are all the threads in top shape any damage in there? Photo?
Based on knowing the plug is FUBAR, don't attempt to screw the old one back in.
Get a new plug first, you don't want to damage the inside threads if at all possible.

 

[M38 Bob]

Going to try this one more time. You DON"T need a plug. You need to clean the seized aluminum out of the thread so it can screw down properly. This will require a bit of force, either a thread file(for external threads), or a tiny sharp edged tool and hammer and tap it out. The leak issue is more related to the piece the thread pulled OUT of. Yes a stiff bristled brush (think firearm bore brush) turned rapidly/repeatedly with a cordless drill can be used for a tap substitute.

Lacking the tools and knowledge to use em to repair this, if you must buy a plug, buy the housing it screws into as well.

Bob

 

[ltd02]

Going to try this one more time. You DON"T need a plug. You need to clean the seized aluminum out of the thread so it can screw down properly. This will require a bit of force, either a thread file(for external threads), or a tiny sharp edged tool and hammer and tap it out. The leak issue is more related to the piece the thread pulled OUT of. Yes a stiff bristled brush (think firearm bore brush) turned rapidly/repeatedly with a cordless drill can be used for a tap substitute.

Lacking the tools and knowledge to use em to repair this, if you must buy a plug, buy the housing it screws into as well.

Bob

BTW The housing is the whole timing cover. Only about 40-50 bucks on ebay since it seems to fit just about any 3.7 Chrysler made. That's probably an exaggeration and it is sort of a pain to change. :shrug:

 

[LibertyTC]

Oh Bob is saying that there is a stuck piece of left over aluminum half way in the middle of the plug. Dang, I guess it helps to see the photo in full size, darn small screens.
Ya in that case that piece has to be removed from plug.
I have Wd-40'd stuff like this before & carefully used a wire brush or even a steel pick to get the stuck threads out.
Sounds like a tap then or new cover..eek.

 

[M38 Bob]

Oh Bob is saying that there is a stuck piece of left over aluminum half way in the middle of the plug. Dang, I guess it helps to see the photo in full size, darn small screens.
Ya in that case that piece has to be removed from plug.
I have Wd-40'd stuff like this before & carefully used a wire brush or even a steel pick to get the stuck threads out.
Sounds like a tap then or new cover..eek.

'Zactly.

Bob

 

[uss2defiant]

Here's a picture of the block side.

You must be registered for see images

 

[uss2defiant]

Going to try this one more time. You DON"T need a plug. You need to clean the seized aluminum out of the thread so it can screw down properly. This will require a bit of force, either a thread file(for external threads), or a tiny sharp edged tool and hammer and tap it out. The leak issue is more related to the piece the thread pulled OUT of. Yes a stiff bristled brush (think firearm bore brush) turned rapidly/repeatedly with a cordless drill can be used for a tap substitute.

Lacking the tools and knowledge to use em to repair this, if you must buy a plug, buy the housing it screws into as well.

Bob

Bob,

Some of the thread on the plug it self is not aligned and the spacing between the threads looks slightly off due to the aluminum being stuffed between the thread.

Would you still recommend me to still reuse the plug if I can get the remaining aluminum out?

 

[uss2defiant]

Yes a stiff bristled brush (think firearm bore brush) turned rapidly/repeatedly with a cordless drill can be used for a tap substitute.

Good idea.

 

[M38 Bob]

Here's a picture of the block side.

You must be registered for see images

OK, you can see where the seized material in the plug pulled all the threads from it's original location. That can still be used, but you really need to run a tap down into it. While that ain't a size that's likely to be at the local Ace Hardware, most any "Fastenal", Machine shop supply, Northern Tool, etc would likely have one in stock. If not, an oversized rifle/shotgun bore brush in your drill will be better than nothing.

Bob

 

[uss2defiant]

OK, you can see where the seized material in the plug pulled all the threads from it's original location. That can still be used, but you really need to run a tap down into it. While that ain't a size that's likely to be at the local Ace Hardware, most any "Fastenal", Machine shop supply, Northern Tool, etc would likely have one in stock. If not, an oversized rifle/shotgun bore brush in your drill will be better than nothing.

Bob

Understood. There was rust on the inside thread.

 

[boboborino]

just a suggestion on the plug, I've used in the past to clean up threads a fine(24 teeth per inch) hack saw blade. not sure how fine the threads are on the plug if this is feasible. Just a thought. Carefully follow the good threads until you come across the bad spot and clean it out. good luck.

Bert

 

[M38 Bob]

just a suggestion on the plug, I've used in the past to clean up threads a fine(24 teeth per inch) hack saw blade. not sure how fine the threads are on the plug if this is feasible. Just a thought. Carefully follow the good threads until you come across the bad spot and clean it out. good luck.

Bert

Poor man's thread file. Will work.

Bob

 

[M38 Bob]

http://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...-thread-repair-files2-jpg?dateline=1358976805

SnapOn thread file. One metric,one std. The (8)eight thread pitches on each file will work on damn near every fastener in the world

Bob

 

[uss2defiant]

Thanks for all the support here.

As for now, I've cleaned the inner threads the best i can with what I have. I've drained some of the coolant out so it wouldn't cover the threads.

I have a buddy who typically passes a dealership on his way down to campus, will pick up the replacement plug for me.
Fingers crossed that they have it in stock.
I'm planning to buy 2 replacement and make one into a DIY thread chaser if I need to.

I'll pick up the permatex thread sealant tonight via walk/bicycling to the LAP if it ever stops raining.

Hopefully I'll be all set by tomorrow morning.

 

[uss2defiant]

Anyone have any thoughts on how snug the plug should be?
Couldn't find any specific torque value.

Thanks.

 

[ltd02]

Anyone have any thoughts on how snug the plug should be?
Couldn't find any specific torque value.

Thanks.

I don't think a torque spec is relevant for that type of fitting. It's basically a plumbing fitting like described above by Bob in post 11. "Snug" should be sufficient but exact value is when it don't leak. Having done a lot of plumbing stuff, that's about as specific as I can get. :shrug:

 

[uss2defiant]

Got it. Just making sure that I don't mess this up further.
Thanks.

 

[ltd02]

Got it. Just making sure that I don't mess this up further.
Thanks.

I would guesstimate snug like the NV242 tcase plugs. They seem to be a similar type fitting, so around 15-25 ft/lbs should do it.

 

[profdlp]

Anything plumbing related and "just tight enough" will do. The pressure in there is only about 16-18 psi (if the source I just checked is correct), so we're not talking a lot.

 

[uss2defiant]

just my luck. Not one dealership in AZ has it.
Dealership will get the part in tomorrow.
x.x