Need help with parasitic draw on my 2005 CRD

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seafish

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Serious question —

I am wondering how you guys check for parasitic draw on the dash end fuse panel without opening the door and setting the interior light on, this creating an instant parasitic draw ?? o_O

I am sure that there is a really simple solution that I am totally missing, so please feel free to insult me while you provide the answer. ;)

ALSO, diving further into the problem, it seems like I have a .4 amp ignition off parasitic draw traveling through the ground cable.

And when I remove 2/3 of the 50amp JB Power fuses in the engine fuse box, it drops from .407a to .034a in steps as I remove each 50 amp fuse.

My problem is … I have NO idea what the JB power fuse supplies…again, I am already feeling particularly stupid today having blown the DVM 20 amp fuse once already while putting the battery on the trickle charger for more testing tomorrow, so insults are warranted and welcome. :cool:

It is also possible that I am not giving the ECM and modules enough time to got to sleep, which brings me RIGHT back to the first problem of opening the door to check the dash fuses for current drop.

ALL ideas welcome.
 
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seafish

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OK just learned that all 3 "JB power" 50a fuses are the supply circuits for the interior junction box fuses, so still need to know how to check the dash end fuses for draw with the door open!!! Anybody wanna call me stupid by giving the obvious answer that I must be missing?? ;)
 

KJowner

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Before you get too involved in chasing it try pulling the radio fuse and see if that has any affect.
I'm not sure where the interior light switch is in the door, just looked at mine and it's not obvious, it may well be in the door latch, if so then resetting it with a screwdriver will switch it off.
 

seafish

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Before you get too involved in chasing it try pulling the radio fuse and see if that has any affect.

Ok Ill try that first.

I'm not sure where the interior light switch is in the door, just looked at mine and it's not obvious, it may well be in the door latch, if so then resetting it with a screwdriver will switch it off.

Mrs. AI Interwebz seems to confirm the existence of a latch switch, so I will try the screwdriver "closing" and see what happens.

God how I often miss the days of simple analog switches as opposed to todays microswitches!!!!
 
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ikuo78

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I think you can find circuits that are consuming power by removing suspect always-on fuses one by one and reading the change in dark current, as you did with the junction box.
If you are concerned about the current value of the interior light, remove the interior light bulb.
If you disconnect the devices on the suspect power supply circuit one after another, you will reach the cause.
If there is a leak from a cable or terminal, I think it would be a good idea to read the current value of those wirings with a loop probe.
 

seafish

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If you are concerned about the current value of the interior light, remove the interior light bulb.

Yes that is a good idea and is actually my backup plan … but I didn;t want to risk breaking the stupid plastic switch/lenses while trying to take the bulbs out so I will try to close the latch first with a screwdriver.
 

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