Need some info on wheel bearing replacement

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Jcode68

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My daughter's 2006 Liberty is making quite a howl particularly noticible when on the highway at speed. Sounds like it's coming from the rear and assume it is wheel bearings. Looking at the auto part store online catalog, it looks like the rear just use stand alone wheel bearings while the front use an integrated bearing and hub assembly. Is this correct? I found a post showing replacement of the front, is there a good thread showing steps for rear? She has 160k miles on the car so I'm going to replace both sides, was even considering replacing the front hubs as well, opinions? Also considering replacing the universal joints on the driveshafts, although haven't looked into the process for that. Is it straightforward like most U joints or different? I do most of my own repairs but haven't done much other than breaks on the Liberty. Tips and comments appreciated.
 

TwoBobsKJ

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Before thinking of replacing the rear bearings check the emergency brake shoes. The KJ uses "top hat" style emergency brakes where the shoes are inside the rear rotors; it's not unusual for the pads to delaminate from the shoes. My left rear did that just this week. Pull the rear rotors and see if a pad falls on the garage floor :favorites68:

As far as the front bearings... Go with Timken ONLY! Best bearing out there and the prices on RockAuto.com are very good.

Bob
 

ElCheapo

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I don't know about these axles, but many rear axles have the bearing pressed on the axle itself, so you may not be able to do it in your garage unless you have a press.
Are you sure it's not the front? If you steer just enough to load the bearing each way and the noise changes, it may be the fronts.
Yeah, u-joints are "normal".
 

Jcode68

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Twobob, thanks for the tip. I replaced the emergency brake shoes about a year ago, hopefully the haven't de laminated but anything is possible and will check it.

El Cheapo, I do have a press in the garage, but looking for the procedure to replace the bearings. Also thinking it makes sense to replace the seals in the process. Glad to know the u-joints are normal. With the mileage, I'm considering replacing the bearings at all four wheels. Anyone got a link to the procedures for replacing rear bearings?
 

tommudd

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I never look at them but have heard there are YouTube videos on the replacement of them. Not that hard just have to pull the axles out etc
 

Jcode68

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I'm trying to locate the correct parts for this repair. I want to replace rear wheel bearings on both sides along with axle seals. Can someone point me to the right parts on Rockauto? I prefer to use Timken bearings as others have suggested.
 

TwoBobsKJ

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I'm trying to locate the correct parts for this repair. I want to replace rear wheel bearings on both sides along with axle seals. Can someone point me to the right parts on Rockauto? I prefer to use Timken bearings as others have suggested.

I used bearings and seals from NAPA - cost less than $70 including 2 quarts of Valvoline dino oil and a hand pump.

Check out my post #6355 on replacing my rear axle bearings and seals here.

Bob
 
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tjkj2002

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I'm trying to locate the correct parts for this repair. I want to replace rear wheel bearings on both sides along with axle seals. Can someone point me to the right parts on Rockauto? I prefer to use Timken bearings as others have suggested.
You will want to measure the axle where the bearings ride,if it's any less then just forward or rearward of where the bearing rides you need to replace the axle shafts also.


I'd actually have the noise diagnosed properly,8.25's are not known for axle bearings going out but very known for taking out pinion bearings,more so if using synthetic gear oil.
 

ElCheapo

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I just ordered both rear bearings and seals from Rock, $32 shipping included, and I forgot to use the 5% discount again!
Timken 8835S Seals, and Timken 6408 bearings. Supposed to fit the Chrysler 8.25 that is supposed to be in the Liberty's.
 

tjkj2002

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I just ordered both rear bearings and seals from Rock, $32 shipping included, and I forgot to use the 5% discount again!
Timken 8835S Seals, and Timken 6408 bearings. Supposed to fit the Chrysler 8.25 that is supposed to be in the Liberty's.
There are 2 different axle bearings for the 8.25,27 spline and 29 spline.The KJ has 29 spline axles.
 

ElCheapo

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Yep, right ones!
Funny, I bought Timken bearings, they arrived in a Timken box, but when I opened it up and looked them over, they said KOYO on the side???
Called a local bearing sales company, (they don't sell automotive bearings), and asked them about it. Apparently KOYO bought out some of Timken corp, and are good to go.
Old bearings were Torrington.
 

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AutoXSS

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Got everything to do this job, but wondering if I have another issue as well. I have a slight amount of movement with the axle in and out, very little movement. Could the carrier pin that holds the spider gears apart be worn? The axle only has that small amount of play on the right side, the side where the wheel bearing noise is coming from. Not really sure if it's just because the bearing is dead, or if the pin is also worn? Is this possible? Good insurance to just replace while I'm at it?
 

tjkj2002

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Got everything to do this job, but wondering if I have another issue as well. I have a slight amount of movement with the axle in and out, very little movement. Could the carrier pin that holds the spider gears apart be worn? The axle only has that small amount of play on the right side, the side where the wheel bearing noise is coming from. Not really sure if it's just because the bearing is dead, or if the pin is also worn? Is this possible? Good insurance to just replace while I'm at it?
A little "in/out" play is fine as long as it's barely detectable.
 

AutoXSS

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It is noticeable on the side with the worn bearing, the other side has nearly no movement. Thats kinda why I was concerned
 

libertybob

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Torrington Bearings

Yep, right ones!
Funny, I bought Timken bearings, they arrived in a Timken box, but when I opened it up and looked them over, they said KOYO on the side???
Called a local bearing sales company, (they don't sell automotive bearings), and asked them about it. Apparently KOYO bought out some of Timken corp, and are good to go.
Old bearings were Torrington.

I worked for Torrington for 42 years. Torrington was acquired in 1968 by Ingersoll Rand and sold to Timken in 2003. About 2008 Timken sold Torrington to Koyo. Torrington manufactured needle bearings in the same plants here in the USA during these ownerships. Rear wheel bearings with a drawn cup (outer race drawn on heavy press) and heavy duty rollers were made all this time in a plant in Sylvania Georgia USA. Drawn cup rear wheel bearings made in Georgia are used by Ford, Chrysler, and other auto companies. So, Koyo drawn cup bearings for Liberty's were made in the same plant on the same equipment by the same people as the original Torrington bearing with a different name stamped on it. Great bearings by the way made here in the USA. AM proud to have worked for Torrington in the Needle Bearing Division.
 

ThatsMrGimp2U

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Yay old thread resurrection! Hit 160k on my lib and have replaced both of the front hubs. Thinks the rears are do, if not probably soon. I'm going to be installing a locker so I wanted to take care of these at the same time. Was looking at the Timken item on the bottom, just wanted to confirm that it's both the correct seal and bearing. Sometimes RockAuto has stuff worded funny so I'm looking for a second opinion.
 

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