New to me 2006 Jeep Liberty Renegade
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Yup, copper core for the good ole 3.7 works best. I think the difference between the KJ/KK NGK plugs is negligible and they will be effectively equivalent.
Mopar HOAT coolant is expensive so I get the Zerex G05 which is also HOAT.
Mopar HOAT coolant is expensive so I get the Zerex G05 which is also HOAT.
Boueux
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Thank you @lfhoward .. but we’re 2006 and you’re 2008.. I’m still leery until I get a definitive 06 answer.
Honestly, I had no idea the Liberty was so persnickety.. I see people here are diehard fans and hope that portends a lovey future for us and that this is just the process of getting the bugs out.
Im not going to be dumping coolant in a bucket out of the bottom and refilling it in this weather.. I have it in me in warmer weather, but not until March. That said. Does a switchover to Zerex require some sort of automated pressurized setup, or can it be done in a well heated garage, sitting in one place?
Honestly, I had no idea the Liberty was so persnickety.. I see people here are diehard fans and hope that portends a lovey future for us and that this is just the process of getting the bugs out.
Im not going to be dumping coolant in a bucket out of the bottom and refilling it in this weather.. I have it in me in warmer weather, but not until March. That said. Does a switchover to Zerex require some sort of automated pressurized setup, or can it be done in a well heated garage, sitting in one place?
Never worked on a V6 but on the CRD changing coolant is easy enough, drain out, refill, bleed, test run, top up, job done. But if there is any question that anything other than HOAT is in the system then flush it really well before refilling or you risk it turning into jelly, it doesn't like mixing! And if you buy neat HOAT instead of premix use distilled water not tap water to make up.
Boueux
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Yes I bought it neat, thanks @KJowner it also saves some money ; )
I went with Zerex G05 so we didn’t get stuck later bc Mopar is so hard to find.
Ive also gotten some NGK plugs and brake fluid, figuring it’ll save time I’ll buy oil when I pick up the plugs. My H is in favor of 5W30 where Im seeing 10W30 in the manual. It doesn’t get below freezing very often, what do other people use, please @ KJowner, @lfhoward, @klc .. anyone have brand preferences or other advice Re fluids? Are yall using Mopar ATF+4 type 9602, please, or are there others you suggest?
Also looking without success for the original gray rubber Mopar rear cargo mat. If anyone has one in good shape will pay well plus s&h. Appreciated.
I went with Zerex G05 so we didn’t get stuck later bc Mopar is so hard to find.
Ive also gotten some NGK plugs and brake fluid, figuring it’ll save time I’ll buy oil when I pick up the plugs. My H is in favor of 5W30 where Im seeing 10W30 in the manual. It doesn’t get below freezing very often, what do other people use, please @ KJowner, @lfhoward, @klc .. anyone have brand preferences or other advice Re fluids? Are yall using Mopar ATF+4 type 9602, please, or are there others you suggest?
Also looking without success for the original gray rubber Mopar rear cargo mat. If anyone has one in good shape will pay well plus s&h. Appreciated.
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Mine is on full synthetic diesel so not a lot of use to you, I usually go with the OEM recommended oil grade though.
Boueux
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Ok thanks @KJowner can you tell me this please?
Manual says
2007 and before take
0 to 100 degrees F - 10W-30
Below -20 to 100 degrees F - 5W-30
Im in Mid Atlantic, never much lower than 20 degrees F
is there a reason lots of others are using 5W-30 all of the time? Towing? Rock crawling? I will tow but need to know what oil to use. Thanks
Manual says
2007 and before take
0 to 100 degrees F - 10W-30
Below -20 to 100 degrees F - 5W-30
Im in Mid Atlantic, never much lower than 20 degrees F
is there a reason lots of others are using 5W-30 all of the time? Towing? Rock crawling? I will tow but need to know what oil to use. Thanks
Deb'nKJ
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Do you have any reason to believe that the plugs already in it are the wrong ones. Have you looked at (for?) the “Vehicle Emission Control Information” label in the engine compartment for spark plug information?
Ignore Haynes when it comes to plugs, it always used to be Champion (for anything & everything), now it's NGK so clearly it's whatever flavour of the month was when that a particular manual went to press.
HOAT's been around for 20-odd years now, so I would've thought all the major brands & most big stores' own brands did one. Here, the situation's rather different, as the only place it's generally available is on the interweb - so there's always that option.
However, getting the stuff might be the easy bit, because there's only one thing worse than using the wrong anti-freeze, & that's mixing it. So, unless you know that HOST is what's in it now, you should flush the cooling system 'til it runs out like sparkling spring water - the a couple more times, just to make sure.
I think this was s'posed to've been on another thread - but, then, I'm easily confused. Info still holds good though.
Ignore Haynes when it comes to plugs, it always used to be Champion (for anything & everything), now it's NGK so clearly it's whatever flavour of the month was when that a particular manual went to press.
HOAT's been around for 20-odd years now, so I would've thought all the major brands & most big stores' own brands did one. Here, the situation's rather different, as the only place it's generally available is on the interweb - so there's always that option.
However, getting the stuff might be the easy bit, because there's only one thing worse than using the wrong anti-freeze, & that's mixing it. So, unless you know that HOST is what's in it now, you should flush the cooling system 'til it runs out like sparkling spring water - the a couple more times, just to make sure.
I think this was s'posed to've been on another thread - but, then, I'm easily confused. Info still holds good though.
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The oils are multigrade, when hot both are 30 weight, however when cold the 5W it thinner than the 10W, so in cold conditions the 5W will give the starter motor an easier time, however the tradeoff is lower viscosity oils are more easily pushed out of bearings, especially when there's a bit of wear and the clearances have opened up a bit, so a thinner oil won't offer as much protection as a thicker oil.
Boueux
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Understanding this much better now, many thanks for your time and consideration.
Your welcome
Boueux
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No it’s been pouring and now snowing so I’ve not pulled a plug. The battery has been dead or recharging so it’s not been starting anyway. We’ve had the car literally a week and only drove it tonight… to drop off at the mechanic. Called around for plugs, fluids etc day before yesterday and drove around for four hours picking stuff up today.
Yep, bought the Haynes specified NGK plugs.. which I really hope aren’t wrong now. Id never have expected the manual to be wrong. SMH. We live an hour+ to and from any parts source but each one is in a different direction, so all of that was just to save the mechanic road time and to get what we thought were the right materials.. Based those purchases on what we could find here, online and in the Haynes manual. Still hope we delivered the correct OEM oil filter.
After all of this I hope we still love it.. so far it’s like adopting a beautiful sick puppy. Very attractive to look at, but lies around all day while we fuss over it and run around procuring what it requires.
Thanks for your time and kindness @Deb’nKJ
Deb'nKJ
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There's a cricketing term "rain stopped play" which, I suspect, resonates with d-i-y mechanics everywhere (at least those of us who do not have the luxury of any form of shelter - other than the vehicle itself.
Perhaps I didn't explain myself very well about the works of Mr Haynes; 1st a little background: I was raised on Haynes manuals, which means I accept their shortcomings & have learned how to get the best out of them (of which, more anon). I even defend them on, e.g. a Citroen forum where they are universally referred to as "B-o-L" (= Book of Lies) & a Cadillac one which just advise people to recycle them.
They are useful - but by no means infallible. The recommended plugs are probably right & their preference at the moment is NGK, which our Jeeps prefer, but different engines have different preferences & I have others that I'd never dream of putting NGK's in, whatever Haynes says, even if they are the right specs. Mr H has a similar, unflinching, allegiance to the oil brand of the moment - although that too has changed over the years.
Generally, they are a useful reference for such things as capacities, service intervals, clearances & torque settings (time was when they had marvelous exploded diagrams, sadly, now it tends to be poor quality photos) but never blindly follow their step-by-step directions for any particular job: there is a tendency to remove components, apparently, for the sake of it. The best approach is to read through the section on the job you're about to undertake, well in advance & in the comfort of your own home. The less familiar you are with that part of the vehicle & the less confident you are of your knowledge/expertise/experience the more time you should read it. Then, when the time comes, take it out to the vehicle & have it open at the right page where you can see that & the area of work, read through it again &, at every stage, look at that part - & ask yourself why. Do not remove anything, not so much as a single screw, just because it says to in the book! Even if it improves access or, otherwise might make things a little easier, you have to decide whether the extra work is worthwhile; it may be that there's an overall time saving by removing less but having to put a bit more time &/or effort into the next step.
Very quickly, going back to plugs, that sticker, which the Owners Manual refers you to, which, I seem to recall is in plain sight on the slam panel, will be far more reliable than any reference book.
Good luck - & do let us know how you get on.
Perhaps I didn't explain myself very well about the works of Mr Haynes; 1st a little background: I was raised on Haynes manuals, which means I accept their shortcomings & have learned how to get the best out of them (of which, more anon). I even defend them on, e.g. a Citroen forum where they are universally referred to as "B-o-L" (= Book of Lies) & a Cadillac one which just advise people to recycle them.
They are useful - but by no means infallible. The recommended plugs are probably right & their preference at the moment is NGK, which our Jeeps prefer, but different engines have different preferences & I have others that I'd never dream of putting NGK's in, whatever Haynes says, even if they are the right specs. Mr H has a similar, unflinching, allegiance to the oil brand of the moment - although that too has changed over the years.
Generally, they are a useful reference for such things as capacities, service intervals, clearances & torque settings (time was when they had marvelous exploded diagrams, sadly, now it tends to be poor quality photos) but never blindly follow their step-by-step directions for any particular job: there is a tendency to remove components, apparently, for the sake of it. The best approach is to read through the section on the job you're about to undertake, well in advance & in the comfort of your own home. The less familiar you are with that part of the vehicle & the less confident you are of your knowledge/expertise/experience the more time you should read it. Then, when the time comes, take it out to the vehicle & have it open at the right page where you can see that & the area of work, read through it again &, at every stage, look at that part - & ask yourself why. Do not remove anything, not so much as a single screw, just because it says to in the book! Even if it improves access or, otherwise might make things a little easier, you have to decide whether the extra work is worthwhile; it may be that there's an overall time saving by removing less but having to put a bit more time &/or effort into the next step.
Very quickly, going back to plugs, that sticker, which the Owners Manual refers you to, which, I seem to recall is in plain sight on the slam panel, will be far more reliable than any reference book.
Good luck - & do let us know how you get on.
Boueux
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BoL, hmm. Right @Deb'nKJ I looked for a Chilton’s too but didn’t see one when I bought this one. Yes, this reminds me of 3m 5200, a white substance used as an adhesive yep filler I the boating world that’s suggested by many for nearly anything, but then which a goodly number of knowledgeable individuals refer to as “ Satan’s Glue”.. or Lucas, the mfr of many Morris Garage, Jag and other electrical systems.. oft dubbed “ Lucas, Prince of Darkness.”
Thank you, your experience and time in sharing are much appreciated. As we had to make a serious trek for plugs , filters and fluids, you can be assured I was eager to clamp an eye on that sticker under the hood- and was happy to be greeted by the sight of exactly what we’d bought: NGK- ZFR6-11G
w h e w!
The more I read, the more apparent it is that sunroof drains and sadly, fuses and or the BCM are likely involved. Especially sad based on the exterior temperature. I see Deb’n and Zunny L are similarly dank and chilled. Oh for a heated bay. Looks like this won’t be progressing as quickly as planned. Will advise when further mos have been busted.
Thank you, your experience and time in sharing are much appreciated. As we had to make a serious trek for plugs , filters and fluids, you can be assured I was eager to clamp an eye on that sticker under the hood- and was happy to be greeted by the sight of exactly what we’d bought: NGK- ZFR6-11G
w h e w!
The more I read, the more apparent it is that sunroof drains and sadly, fuses and or the BCM are likely involved. Especially sad based on the exterior temperature. I see Deb’n and Zunny L are similarly dank and chilled. Oh for a heated bay. Looks like this won’t be progressing as quickly as planned. Will advise when further mos have been busted.
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