No crank

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Renilibby

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Well after the long process of the motor swap which took much longer than it should have the liberty was running like a top. I drove it probably 50 miles the day it got running. Everything worked like it should the next day the wife went to drive it and it wouldn't do anything turn the key to on and everything works as it should but try to start it and nothing happens no clicks nothing. No cel no warming lights. I tried switching the starter relay and still nothing. I'm starting to think it's the skreem module since my keyless entry does not work either. Any ideas on what it could be? Any recommendations where to get a cheap skreem?
The last question is if got the ignition, skreem, and key from another liberty and replaced ours would it still have to be programmed? I have heard of people doing this with my wj's skim module but not sure if the kj works the same way. Thanks for your time and sorry for the lengthy post!
 

GunnerSchenck

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When you have the key in the on position, is your anti theft light blinking??
My bet is on ignition switch.. if it clicked or made any attempt to roll over, I'd be thinking starter.

Have you looked at the connector for the starter? You said you did a motor swap so maybe the connector wasn't plugged in the whole way.. so it lasted a day and juggled free? So next time you went to start it, kaput..

I'd start there and check the connector, and take voltage/resistance readings.
 

Billwill

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Keyless entry does not have much to do with the SKREEM system.

As stated...remove the Starter relay, place key in ignition slot and turn on Ignition. Make sure you are in Park and/or Neutral. Jumper female pins 30 and 87 together inside the empty relay socket...only briefly!

If the engine now cranks there are several things to try out.

See if it cranks in Neutral instead of Park....Park sensor may be faulty.
Swap the Starter Relay over with an identical one next to it.
Check that your battery is in good shape and all battery and battery to chassis connections are clean and tight and connections on Starter Motor are tight.

Check all fuses under the hood and inside the cabin.

Most likely is the common "broken actuator pin assembly" which is the assembly that rotates the ignition switch when you turn the ignition key...this is known to break...ignition will switch ON but there is not enough strength left in the actuator pin assembly to move the switch to "start".....do a search on all the KJ forums for this actuator pin replacement.

You can check it by removing the plastic covers around the steering column....two Torx Female screws. Then remove the ignition switch off the actuator....it is attached to the side of the steering column by a smaller Torx screw....early KJs have a normal Torx screw here...newer KJs have a "security" screw that requires a Male Torx bit with a hole down its center.

When you remove the ignition switch watch out for small pieces of debris falling off the end of the actuator pin...if you need a new pin do not bother with the Dealers...they do not sell it separate....get a Dorman part.

You can get the Jeep to start by turning the ignition switch itself with a small flat screwdriver...with key in ignition slot to unlock steering lock and enable SKIS the engine should start and run.

Do not mess around with the SKIS system unless you have to. Early KJs have an Amber Key Icon on the cluster that lights up with ignition ON then goes out...later KJs have a Red LED on the left of the cluster that lights up and then goes out. If this light flashes or stays ON then you have a SKIS problem but that does not stop the engine from cranking over.
 
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