no one can figure out my KJ noise

[smittyfromPA]

Hello all,

I recently had some work done on my Jeep. Work was : Track Lok installed in rear, new Cragar soft 8's, new front drive shaft, new front hubs and rear wheel bearings. Now I have a clicky/clunky rotational sound that appears more when I'm coasting downhill or decelerating. Sounds to me like its right under my seat. Does not get worse in turns and is more prevalent with foot off the gas although it does still make noise when on the pedal until road and tire noise drown it out.

Since the jeep was howling a bit and needed new bearings ( both front hubs were replaced) not sure if current sound was there before or after. Problem is one mechanic said it was due to improperly installed Trac Lok in rear end. The installing mechanic said he had a hard time setting it up, and it may benefit from a new ring and pinion, but he disagrees that is where the sound is coming from. Noise goes away in 4WD. Dissenting mechanic said that is BS, he had the on stands and heard the sound from the rear without the front axles moving(?)

In my unprofessional opinion and from reading these forums, I think it could be the passenger CV and intermediate shaft. Would this also cause a slight steering wheel vibration? I'm at wits end as I have a 600 mile round trip coming up with a bunch of 4 wheeling at hunting camp. I'm at 117,000 miles and all this done since 102, 000:

New wheel hubs/bearings on front, L&R
Transfer case fluid serviced
New steel rims installed , all tires balanced.
New front sway bar bushings and end links
Rear axle bearings and seals replaced
Front drive shaft replaced
Rear drive shaft U-joints replaced
E-Brake shoes replaced
Replaced both sides inner and outer tie rods
Replaced rear upper control arm (new dealer part with bushings and ball joint)
New JBA front upper control arms
Terraflex Extended front bump stops
New MOOG front lower ball joints
Transmission flush/fill and filter replaced
Rear pinion seal replaced
Front pinion seal replaced
New brakes (pads and rotors) all around (at 102,000)
Power steering pressure hose replaced
Larger tires 245/70/R16 (at 102,000)
2" BDS lift with new struts/shocks front and rear

I don't want to throw any more parts at it for a while until my wallet recovers, but I'm thinking I'll need CV's done soon enough.

All comments appreciated. Thanks!

Smitty

 

[dude1116]

You had the front driveshaft replaced? How's the boot on the t-case end look? Is it torn? If it sounds like it's coming from right under you, that could be a first place to look. If that joint is destroyed than that can cause the issue. What made you replace the driveshaft? Did the new front shaft come with new joints?

 

[smittyfromPA]

The front driveshaft was replaced because the boot on the transfer case was torn. I was told you could not replce just the CV (which i've sice discovered was false) so its a brand new shaft.

 

[smittyfromPA]

Weird thing is the person that installed the Trac Lok and front drive shaft says noise is not coming from rear diff. While another mechanic swears it is. I think i hear it up front when driving but hard to pinpoint with road noise. I trust the person that does most of my work. They are a Jeep specialty shop and arre very experienced. I just took it to a different mechanic as I was not in town.

 

[smittyfromPA]

Drove home about 30 miles from work. Noticed whirring sound and (driveline?)vibration at at highway speeds at certain ranges (45-55 and 60-65). Clicking and clunking is rhythmic and heard at lower speeds seems to be worse when vehicle warms up. I am at a loss as many parts replaced that would be the cause of this.

 

[tommudd]

So it didn't do this sound before parts were installed ?
And the installing shop will do nothing about it or try and find it?

 

[streetglideok]

I would be going back to the shop with the complaints you have. The noise was not present before, so they should recheck all of their work, for free. Have them go for a test drive with you and let them hear what it is doing and when. Using chassis ears, they should be able to narrow down where it is coming from. I would question if they set up the differential correctly with the tool for the side bearings, and what quality front hub bearings were used. If they weren't Timkens, then they are probably some cheap Chinese knock off.

 

[ridenby]

Put it on a lift,have someone run it up to where the noise occurs. You will be able to pin point it.

 

[tjkj2002]

Coasting or decelerating noises are mainly in the rear driveshaft or rear diff.

 

[streetglideok]

Coasting or decelerating noises are mainly in the rear driveshaft or rear diff.

Yep, been my experience too. Seeing they had the rear end apart, first thing comes to mind is the ring gear lash, and if they had the tool to adjust the side bearing preload.

 

[smittyfromPA]

Thanks for all of the replies. I took it back to the installer and he had it for the day. Drove it around and he did acknowledge the noise but he told me he initially had a hard time setting it up and that I might need a new ring and pinion. Told me to drive it and let me know if it gets worse?! So I'm pretty much washing my hands from that shop. I believe this sound was not present before the rear end work. At this point if I have to pay someone else to set it up right that's what I have to do I guess. Pretty bummed as I will have to drive it as is for a few weeks until I can pay for the work.

 

[streetglideok]

Thanks for all of the replies. I took it back to the installer and he had it for the day. Drove it around and he did acknowledge the noise but he told me he initially had a hard time setting it up and that I might need a new ring and pinion. Told me to drive it and let me know if it gets worse?! So I'm pretty much washing my hands from that shop. I believe this sound was not present before the rear end work. At this point if I have to pay someone else to set it up right that's what I have to do I guess. Pretty bummed as I will have to drive it as is for a few weeks until I can pay for the work.

In other words, he probably didn't know what he was doing, and lacked the tool to adjust the side bearing preload. If you continue to run it, you'll likely need gears for sure. I've seen guys running the same gears for 180k and had no issue getting everything set back up once the bearings were all replaced. Have someone else check it out, have them pull the rear cover if need be. They can do some measurements pretty quick and see.

 

[joeaub]

You should speak to the manager of the shop that did the work. They should be able to fix their error, or pay for a competent shop to fix it.

Its not like you went to some backyard mechanic to save a buck, you went to a legitimate shop for peace of mind. They charged you regular rates and they should be able to guarantee their work will be done properly.

Squeeky wheel will get the grease here. Its not as if you are ever going to take your Jeep there for further work so who cares what they think of you. Do your job as a buyer and get you paid for. ***** and complain.