Wow! I guess I wrote down the wrong part number. I wonder what the “G” designation changes? The gap is 3/1000 narrower. I’ve run these in my KK with no issues. Next time though I’ll swap to the right ones.
Oil in the air filter
- Thread starter TheCanadian
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TheCanadian
Member
I went to go and replace this but the rubber elbow that is on top of the pcv is cracked to hell and I couldn't get it off so it will have to be ripped off. I'm going to try an track down a different one or call Dodge and see how much the whole hose is and both elbows.
TheCanadian
Member
So I looked into this deeper. The pcv valve hose goes to the intake manifold. but the oils coming from that hose that goes to the air box.
Can someone answer this if they know.
So if the pcv is clogged or bad, then it would go backwards and into the airbox? Where does this hose even go?
Can someone answer this if they know.
So if the pcv is clogged or bad, then it would go backwards and into the airbox? Where does this hose even go?
TheCanadian
Member
I got the PCV changed back to the old one, the one that was in there still had the rattle.
I'll be filling up whatever oil I lost and checking on it daily to see if I'm still losing any.
There is no leaks at the oil pan nor is it sweating.
While doing this I also did a flush on the cooling system. Got heat but lost it on the drivers side so I'm going to have to flush the heater core again. (I know this would happen but I didn't think it would be that quick)
I'll have to book in to get it properly done somewhere once their machines are fixed. seems like they all broke at the same time where I'm at haha.
I'll be filling up whatever oil I lost and checking on it daily to see if I'm still losing any.
There is no leaks at the oil pan nor is it sweating.
While doing this I also did a flush on the cooling system. Got heat but lost it on the drivers side so I'm going to have to flush the heater core again. (I know this would happen but I didn't think it would be that quick)
I'll have to book in to get it properly done somewhere once their machines are fixed. seems like they all broke at the same time where I'm at haha.
TheCanadian
Member
It's been awhile since I gave an update on this.
It's still consuming oil but not as bad by the looks of it.
I did some more research and came across people saying that the oil sender/oil pressure could be leaking.
I'm going to check on this and see if it is or not and replace it accordingly
It's still consuming oil but not as bad by the looks of it.
I did some more research and came across people saying that the oil sender/oil pressure could be leaking.
I'm going to check on this and see if it is or not and replace it accordingly
Definately check the oil pressure sensor for any leaks.
By the design of the pcv system , it seems that a lot of oil can remain within the pcv lines, which I believe is caused by blow by.
Treating the valve stem seals with lube guard bio tech engine treatment can help.
Also valvoline high mileage has stem seal conditioners as well.
On the flushing of coolant system keep in mind there is an air bleed screw on the top rad hose that is effective in removing trapped air in the system.
I normally get jeep hot and with rags around the housing I slightly open bleed screw and let the hot out a bit until no air is present.
By the design of the pcv system , it seems that a lot of oil can remain within the pcv lines, which I believe is caused by blow by.
Treating the valve stem seals with lube guard bio tech engine treatment can help.
Also valvoline high mileage has stem seal conditioners as well.
On the flushing of coolant system keep in mind there is an air bleed screw on the top rad hose that is effective in removing trapped air in the system.
I normally get jeep hot and with rags around the housing I slightly open bleed screw and let the hot out a bit until no air is present.
TheCanadian
Member
I have bled the system of air using the bleed screw.
While running water through the system there was nothing coming through the heater core at all.
Come summer I'm going to have to connect a garden hose to it and let it do it's thing for awhile then connect everything back again. and see how it goes.
As of right now the passenger side still has heat and the drivers side has warm air. I've just closed all vents for the drivers side to hopefully help it from not fogging up and what not.
While running water through the system there was nothing coming through the heater core at all.
Come summer I'm going to have to connect a garden hose to it and let it do it's thing for awhile then connect everything back again. and see how it goes.
As of right now the passenger side still has heat and the drivers side has warm air. I've just closed all vents for the drivers side to hopefully help it from not fogging up and what not.
TheCanadian
Member
I've always used Lucas fuel injector cleaner for a fuel additive.
For oil I try to always use Castrol Edge Full synthetic 5w20
Shane Giggie
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My 06 uses a little oil too. I just use conventional 5w30 Castrol and a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer. It helped a lot with the consumption of oil since I bought it. It uses about a quart and a half between changes. It's got 240,000 kms
TheCanadian
Member
Mines got 278,000KM on it, but it seems like it's consuming more oil then just a quart. I'm going to take sometime tonight and check the oil sender while I fix my headlights since they seem to be acting up now.
Shane Giggie
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Like I said mine uses about a quart and a half between changes but I go 7000 on conventional oil. Try Lucas oil stabilizer, it helped mine a lot with oil consumption and any lifter noise or piston slap.
TheCanadian
Member
I'll give that a try and see how it goes.
Should I be adding this when I do an oil change or can I add it at any time?
If I'm adding it in how much should I be adding if I'm in the safe area on the dip stick?
I used to use Lucas Oil Stabilizer on my old high mileage 4.0 back in the day, and it did make it a lot smoother and quieter. I used to put in a quart of Lucas and 4 quarts of oil at an oil change, for a total of 5 quarts. I think the bottle says you can even go up to 50/50 mix if you need to, but I would imagine that would be really viscous and thick.
Right now you could add some Lucas to your crankcase and just keep an eye on the oil level so it doesn't go above Max on the dipstick. If you're worried about overfilling you could drain some oil first, or just do an oil change.
Right now you could add some Lucas to your crankcase and just keep an eye on the oil level so it doesn't go above Max on the dipstick. If you're worried about overfilling you could drain some oil first, or just do an oil change.
Shane Giggie
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No just add a bottle of it everytime you change your oil. 4 quarts of oil and a quart of Lucas, it's good stuff. A lot of people swear by it.
TheCanadian
Member
So I brought my jeep to the shop to get an oil change done and have them check to see if I was leaking from anywhere else.
The oil pressure sender wasn't leaking. He said that the front seal and the bellhousing were both leaking.
I'm wondering what it would take to replace these on my own and what parts I'd need. If anyone has done either of these seals any help is good.
Edit
After talking to the mechanic he said that both of the crankshaft seals were leaking. as well as he believe that there is a pin hole somewhere in the passenger valve cover since it's leaking high up on it.
The oil pressure sender wasn't leaking. He said that the front seal and the bellhousing were both leaking.
I'm wondering what it would take to replace these on my own and what parts I'd need. If anyone has done either of these seals any help is good.
Edit
After talking to the mechanic he said that both of the crankshaft seals were leaking. as well as he believe that there is a pin hole somewhere in the passenger valve cover since it's leaking high up on it.
Last edited:
uss2defiant
Full Access Member
ughhh that doesn't sound good.
You can try some dye in the oil to help find all those leaks.
You can try some dye in the oil to help find all those leaks.
