OME or Bilstein shocks for LibertyTc's KJ?

[huntbuggy]

Huntbuggy's lift - step 2

Got rear shocks and springs in without too many hassles when time permitted on Sunday. Put in bumpstop pucks but waiting on a wheel stud for each side before the rear tires can go back on ... will have to ensure the drums/shoes are a-okay too on reinstall. (Reading up on drum basics JIK, don't want burning rear brakes driving to alignment)

Pulled the airbox, battery and tray and moved the cruise control and relay harness aside yesterday - then cleaned up in there bigtime and loosened the shock mount bolts a tiny bit to ensure nothing was going to be a problem.

Passenger side got started, the clevis pinch and lower bolt were a ***** but coaxed out, sway bar link came off easy. Couldn't get the UCA balljoint to knuckle bolt to budge at all... still PB Blasting and looking for a monster 21mm wrench. Went ahead and pulled the spring/shock assembly and with a little sweat and a tiny bottle jack against the LCA it came out.

Driver's side tonight was a fail. Same as the other side, the UCA joint bolt is really stuck - more PB... The sway link was jammed onto the bolt and needed heat and serious hammering to come free. The clevis pinch bolt came out after impact, only needed breaker on the other side. The lower clevis to LCA bolt spun and the nut is really fused... more PB. Spent the rest of the evening cleaning up parts and organizing tools for next round.

Each bolt is a battle on this thing. Every evening a new knuckle-busting job to come home to. Could've spent to install but am learning some and getting very intimate with my Libby at least. :love51:

 

[tommudd]

UCA all you need, if you got the nut, off is a BFH, one good hit is all it takes
make sure though you take the nut all the way off then run back up on ten or twelve turns
If you can not get the nut off may have to do like I did the last lift, cut it off and install new arms. Was rusted on to the point where you could not see threads on the ball joint

 

[huntbuggy]

Bolts pretty stuck but threads look intact below the nut. I think I'm just not using the right tools, and there's not enough room to impact - the steel brake line is dangerously in the way. My wrenches are too short for leverage and my larger drive sockets are not deep enough to clear that long bolt. The only deep socket in 21mm I have is only a 3/8 drive and actually too tall to get a breaker in there safely.

Will keep trying PB and give it another go tonight. Tool shopping tomorrow if not...

I'm willing to grind off the driver's lower clevis bolt if it won't go as I have spares... but UCAs were not on the list this season. Would hate to create more work too but should be eyeing JBAs sometime soon anyhow I guess. (With my luck the UCA mounting bolts will be fused).

One bright spot:

Found a really easy way to remove front bumpstops this morning. Just attach a large C-clamp centered and as far up on the rubber as you can. Compress enough to distort the shape and to have enough grip to pull downwards. Insert a flat screwdriver into one of the raised grommet tabs and one pry, one downward pull and they pop out like toast.

(Finally - someone pressed the easy button).

 

[LibertyTC]

Where is some photos Mitch?
Sure look forward to the lifted photos.... soon to be shown I am sure...
You got the Arb on now?

 

[huntbuggy]

Long way from finished photos I'm afraid - will post some rusty parts photos if you like...

Doing this alone and part-time at night... thought it would have been easier. :disgust: Guess it's just my luck or bad karma for not upkeeping, but I guess a bunch of fused parts on a decade old vehicle is to be expected - just not all the ones I need to remove would've been nice.

Garage wrenching injury tonight slowed me down, front still stuck as described. :favorites68: Tried a few other heat/cold tricks on the fasteners and bolts and still no go. Spent a few minutes inspecting and cleaning out the UCA connecting bolts just in case, bad shape and the driver's side looks like a lot of fun. Sanded and stripped the clevis I do have out for paint, it still looks like something I dove for off a shipwreck.

Weighing options and about to call in some help soon if my ribs are still messed up tomorrow. Time off for tool shopping and calling around for extra hands.

 

[LibertyTC]

Well good luck, sounds like some help may be in order, you got a big rubber mallet?
Off a ship wreck..ya...LOL!
After our mud excursion:http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48224 Even after power washing, chunks of mud were flying off from under the KJ, and the A-arm tops/skids.
It was cool seeing the dirt swirlies hit ground at 60mph! I think I still need to wash again under there and suspension too! It can get a bit dirty if ya wheel in mud!

 

[Jo6pak]

It was cool seeing the dirt swirlies hit ground at 60mph! I think I still need to wash again under there and suspension too! It can get a bit dirty if ya wheel in mud!

One of my favorite things about mudding is when you hit the highway afterwards. The first time you get up to about 45mph, the crap just flings off of everything all over the road. Always makes me smile:icon_cool:

 

[tommudd]

Yes mud slinging on public roads is always a good way to show others how responsible we are !p:

 

[huntbuggy]

Professor, what's another word for pirate treasure?

"I think it's booty..."

See what I mean?

 

[huntbuggy]

Progress...

Pics as requested.

UCA balljoint nuts are off. Used a 4 foot section of rectangular stock, a huge combination wrench stuffed with rags in the end and gave them the fulcrum of death. Now they won't break free from the knuckle but... we'll see what next garage sessions bring. BFH in any particular tricky way?

Driver's side spring/shock is coming out tonight no matter what. Put a fresh cutting wheel on as a last resort... that lower clevis bolt is giving me bad dreams - literally - my wife told me I was "Jeep talking" in my sleep last night.

While BBQing by the garage door for the first time of the year pressed out wheel studs that were shot with a press instead of wailing away with BFH. Dealer says new ones should be in tomorrow AM so that'll be out of the way. Note the rear is done... moved camera so shocks are clear but springs look like they're already springin'!

Almost feels like I have a broken rib or a hernia but with painkillers refuse to leave the garage until my doctor's appointment next week. I think I love this Jeep despite it's abusive behaviour.

Thx all for the advice and such. (And those guys who post about lifting and make it look so easy... as it should be!)

PS - OMG I missed BBQ so bad. If it's warm enough I'm going to fire up the smoker for pulled pork to celebrate if and when I finally get this KJ off the stands!

 

[LibertyTC]

Drum brakes Rear...more Titanic based parts.
I would have nightmares about spring kits and shoes & piston, swear at them while I sleep.
Sounds like some air tools would help there!

 

[huntbuggy]

Sounds like some air tools would help there!

¿ See first pic ?

Been using air tools the whole time for impacting, drilling etc... are only as good as where they can fit (even with extensions and bendy balljoint 1/2 impact adapters), strength of the compressor and if a nut and bolt have enough unrusted thread to actually break or move.

Pretty useful on shock bolts front and rear in my experience this week. Not so much on clevis and UCA unfortunately.

 

[Ry' N Jen]

Have you tried heating the nut's/bolts with a torch to loosen them?

 

[rockymountain]

Hang in there you'll get it done. Just have to take your time and not get in a hurry. Yours looks like you park it in a creek every night or something. I bet you learn all sorts of tricks after this one.

I used just a regular full sized hammer for my BFH. I thought mine wouldn't come out after about 30 hits on the knuckle, but it finally broke free. Why? cause that's the only hammer I had. I have a real BFH now sitting and waiting for next time.

 

[huntbuggy]

Progress.

Gave up on lower Clevis and did a very surgical job cutting it off last night and removing the driver's spring/shock assembly... without the UCABJ disco'd.

This morning, I awoke to a beautiful day, sunny and warming. Strong hot coffee in hand, birds chirping gleefully nearby - I picked up the BFH and just started going apesh1t on the knuckle. Pop. Driver's side. Put down the coffee, put on the goggles, (ahem, safety second, coffee first) and did the same with the passenger's. Took a few more heavy hits than I'm comfortable with delivering to a vehicle I'd like to continue driving but I guess the knuckle is pretty solid.

Spent the rest of the day looking for a big can of hammered black like TJKJs and dropped off my punctured tire at Wallyworld (yeah, but they're cheap and who has time to tire patch in the middle of a lift). Got some parts primed, cleaned the rear drums up (which I've decided to paint too with VHT caliper black - just tired of rust leaking off them everywhere or staining the wheels). Sizing stuff up for the bumper tonight and tomorrow finish the lift if lucky.

Thx for messages and such, what a PITA so far, but got some new tricks up my sleeve for other rust victims. (Hint - posted elsewhere and it's an old gunsmith's trick) Don't be afraid to drill out or grind off what you can cheaply replace is my lesson for the week.

 

[Ry' N Jen]

Give er shit Mitch!

 

[huntbuggy]

OMG - I love HAMMERED BLACK !!!

Paint day. Break time.

Many thanks to TJKJ and one of his (many) axle posts that showed a thick slathering of Rustoleum(Tremclad here at HD) Hammered Black.

It is extremely forgiving for even the worst hand-painter or when in a rush on parts, easy to find thin spots on grey primed parts. It can go on as thick or thin as you like without worrying about the finish - it's supposed to look hammered. Will be putting one coat of clear to get a bit more protection and seal the crackle of the hammered finish a bit more on stuff that's in the wind.

It's the colors that rock - a lot of metal and epoxy obviously go into the blend - it's thick as molasses and a tiny bit has exceptional coverage that's just glossy enough for a bit of shine.

Saw some Camaro boards where guys not only paint frame and suspension parts with it - but their ENGINES. Leads me to believe it will hold up - if TJKJ is willing to put it on his axles that's good enough for me.

(Got a little paint happy and redid not just the intended primed clevis forks, but the shock towers and some test patches on areas of the axle recently worked on and primed...)

5 stars - only drawback is it smells a bit stronger than regular rust paints.

Will try and get some photos up later - or find the ones from that axle build thread.

(update: VHT caliper paint is too thin and nozzle on rattle can is cheap. Use thin coats, my first coat had some minor pooling on recessed surfaces of the drum like lettering. Use a respirator, it's really heavier on fumes than normal.)

 

[tommudd]

I paint everything under mine at least twice a year with the Rustoleum Hammertone black, rock rails, touch up the skids, no rust after over 6 years on anything

 

[huntbuggy]

What next?

Crap. One of the UCA balljoint studs was spinning when I checked last night putting stuff back together - likely toast or worse disconnectable soon.

Better safe than sorry just ordered JBA 4.5s with my winch fund. (Looks like I will have to raid the beer/strippers/giant-foam-cowboy-hats/sundries fund for the winch now. :icon_lol

Now will start wrestling with the UCA bolts I guess. The rear driver's side bolt looks very challenging - so ordered new ones in case of problems.

Can I throw in the rest of the suspension while waiting for Marlin's care package and still expect to have enough play to pop the new UCAs on I wonder...?

Lots to do while I wait... ARB is in step one... could probably use all new bushings anywhere and everywhere, tie rod ends, sway links, brake pads...

<sigh> At least all this time in the garage is keeping me out of trouble I suppose.

"Idle hands are the devil's workshop."

 

[rockymountain]

if you get the nut past the end of the bolt, you can put a star socket on the end of the bolt to keep it still. If you can't get the nut on that far clean the threads so you can. Anyway, you got the a-arms now. Better to have those anyway...