Oops, I meant to say Cyl 6. Yup, I'm pulling the head and rebuilding. Thinking about replacing all the springs on that side (if it's cheap), just because I'm in there anyway. I ordered the FSM with all the supplements so I can get started in a couple days. Hopefully I can finish it up over the next couple weekends. Any tips I might not find in the service manual?
One normal plug, 5 fouled
- Thread starter rmiller
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Glad to hear you will have a FSM.
Just realize that with a spring compressor a new spring can be installed without head removal. Removing the head requires significant amount of time & work.
If removed, I would let a qualified machine shop deal with the deck & rebuild.
Possibly Jayme (Yellowcoyote) wants to comment on this job, they just did theirs...
Just realize that with a spring compressor a new spring can be installed without head removal. Removing the head requires significant amount of time & work.
If removed, I would let a qualified machine shop deal with the deck & rebuild.
Possibly Jayme (Yellowcoyote) wants to comment on this job, they just did theirs...
I could install a single spring to replace the broken one...my worry is that the valve is bent from hitting the piston. I don't see why a deck would be necessary. I've rebuilt a head before and it was just a matter of being careful and retorquing everything to the proper spec. Why would you have a machine shop do this?
yellocoyote
Administrator
The issue with mine was a dropped/broken valve seat. My KJ wouldn't run at all, but yet did not give any codes. Everything else was okay - cylinders were still in good shape.
You must be registered for see images
Using my FSM, my husband pulled and reinstalled the passenger side head in my KJ just a few weeks ago - he said that part wasn't too difficult (just time consuming - he took lots of time and care as he'd never done it before). We had a shop do the rebuild of the head though as it was beyond either of our knowledge/ability.
It's been back in and running for a few weeks now... no issues so far.
This is one of the few projects done on my KJ that I don't know a lot about as I didn't get too involved in the disassembly of it. If you need any additional info, I can ask him for you (he's not registered here)... or or you can ask him over on LOST - he goes by user name 'ihatemybike'.
Last edited:
The main reason for me is that the head is rebuilt to specs.
They check / measure, tension springs to specs /angle valve job or replacements if required /seats and they are able to do a deck if necessary.
I generally like the idea of completely rebuilt by a machine shop that does this every day, has the correct tools, and knowledge to ensure it is done right.
Then the head should be good for another hopefully 120,000 miles+
yellocoyote
Administrator
This was our opinion as well.
if you replace the other 2 springs on that side, be-sure to take some pics to post a how to info for myself and any others that might have/want to replace the valve springs
am hearing more and more about the valve springs, wondering if it woundn't be a good idea to replace as PM
For sure, I'll post a good how-to if it goes smoothly. Just waiting on the FSM... I picked up the parts from my local Jeep dealer today, including 6 valves for that head, a couple seals if needed, one exhaust valve in case mine is bent, head bolts, headgasket, exhaust gaskets and lower intake mani gasket. Hoping to get on this by weekend after next.
Good Luck and take lots of pictures...
Look forward to that for sure...!!!
Look forward to that for sure...!!!
Thanks, Hope it goes smoothly, and looking forward to the pics
yellocoyote
Administrator
X2
Got my FSM in yesterday and decided to jump on this a little earlier than expected. Here's the goods:
After taking out the intake mani, I can tell I’m not going to need new gaskets. Hopefully that trend continues, because all this stuff cost $250 and the more I can return the better.
I had already pulled the valve cover obviously. There's not much to that other than unbolting what's in the way. There are a couple things that weren't intuitive or weren't necessary that just make it a lot easier, which I’ll try to talk about in this post.
This is how it sits now with the intake mani out.
If you’re going to tackle this, go ahead and drain the coolant at the valve in the radiator (this will take a while), then remove the heater lines that run up and over the passenger valve cover. Along with getting your wiring harness completely out of the way, this will save you a minor headache. Remember anything in the way now will be in the way when putting back together.
Here’s the coolant overflow tank pulled out of the way because I had originally not drained the coolant. Next time, it’s coolant first, then you can just yank this out completely.
The oil dipstick tube has two bolts holding it in place. One is on the valve cover, the other is back close to the firewall. Even if you get that lower bolt out, it’s still really stuck in there. However, the tube will then easily rotate so you can move it out of the way of the valve cover and head, if not intake manifold.
The fuel line requires a specific tool to disconnect this connection. It’s Snap-On #FIH 9055-1 or the generic counterpart. I didn’t have that tool, but in my impatience I managed to finagle the passenger injectors out of the cylinder head, then move that side of the rail out of the way enough to get the intake mani off. I recommend getting the tool and removing the whole rail and injectors as a single unit. Update: I stopped by Sears and got a set of plastic "tools" to disconnect this type of connector. Cost $10. This was after I attempted to make one out of a shampoo bottle cap... So now the whole fuel rail is out.
Will take more pics of the head removal process and try to document the steps of the head rebuild. I most likely won’t start that until next weekend. And if it all goes smoothly, I may go ahead and replace the springs and clean up the drivers side head as well.
You must be registered for see images
After taking out the intake mani, I can tell I’m not going to need new gaskets. Hopefully that trend continues, because all this stuff cost $250 and the more I can return the better.
I had already pulled the valve cover obviously. There's not much to that other than unbolting what's in the way. There are a couple things that weren't intuitive or weren't necessary that just make it a lot easier, which I’ll try to talk about in this post.
This is how it sits now with the intake mani out.
You must be registered for see images
If you’re going to tackle this, go ahead and drain the coolant at the valve in the radiator (this will take a while), then remove the heater lines that run up and over the passenger valve cover. Along with getting your wiring harness completely out of the way, this will save you a minor headache. Remember anything in the way now will be in the way when putting back together.
Here’s the coolant overflow tank pulled out of the way because I had originally not drained the coolant. Next time, it’s coolant first, then you can just yank this out completely.
You must be registered for see images
The oil dipstick tube has two bolts holding it in place. One is on the valve cover, the other is back close to the firewall. Even if you get that lower bolt out, it’s still really stuck in there. However, the tube will then easily rotate so you can move it out of the way of the valve cover and head, if not intake manifold.
You must be registered for see images
The fuel line requires a specific tool to disconnect this connection. It’s Snap-On #FIH 9055-1 or the generic counterpart. I didn’t have that tool, but in my impatience I managed to finagle the passenger injectors out of the cylinder head, then move that side of the rail out of the way enough to get the intake mani off. I recommend getting the tool and removing the whole rail and injectors as a single unit. Update: I stopped by Sears and got a set of plastic "tools" to disconnect this type of connector. Cost $10. This was after I attempted to make one out of a shampoo bottle cap... So now the whole fuel rail is out.
You must be registered for see images
Will take more pics of the head removal process and try to document the steps of the head rebuild. I most likely won’t start that until next weekend. And if it all goes smoothly, I may go ahead and replace the springs and clean up the drivers side head as well.
Last edited:
Halfway point
The timing cover was annoying and messy, but was just a matter of unbolting the alternator, power steering pump, and a/c. The a/c will just get moved out of the way, as well as the p/s pump (does not need to be drained as stated in the fsm).
The crank dampener/pulley requires a pulley puller to take off. Also an impact wrench would be helpful but not necessary to remove the retaining bolt. If you don't have one, you can use a long 3/8" socket extension to stabilize the pulley as you loosen the bolt. This is with the timing cover removed:
Finally got the head off, and luckily everything looks intact under there. Basically it's just a matter of removing the cam gear, slipping it off the chain, and unbolting and removing the right chain guide while just unbolting the left chain guide from the head. There are some details here that you'll want to use a fsm for. Then of course removing the exhaust, which you can do before the cat at the v-band type clamp or after the cat at a 2 bolt flange. I did the latter because the clamp was kind of frozen in place and it's in a tight spot.
And then the matter of taking the valvetrain apart. I've used the overhead "head on block" spring compressor in the past and it was very frustrating, so I picked up another style that works like a C-clamp and is absolutely massive - after the first couple springs were removed it takes just a minute per. With everything cleaned up and making sure the #6 exhaust valve was straight, I put everything back together and torqued it to within spec (11ft-lbs). I highly recommend using a magnet (like the little telescoping magnets with the mirror on the other end) to pick up the pieces that hold the retainers once you compress the spring. It is much, much easier than trying to use pliers and risk losing these tiny things.
Old valvesprings:
And with the new springs installed:
I decided against doing the other head. Just don't have the time/patience to do it, plus the springs can be replaced without the head being removed so I can tackle this at another date if I feel the urge. Now just looking forward to getting it all back together and starting it up and hopefully reporting back here with good news.
If anyone wants to tackle this, it's definitely very time consuming but doable for the average weekend mechanic. That said, it may be fairly cheap to have a shop just replace the springs without removing the head and everything else. Also if anyone has questions about any of the steps, I'm happy to help out.
The timing cover was annoying and messy, but was just a matter of unbolting the alternator, power steering pump, and a/c. The a/c will just get moved out of the way, as well as the p/s pump (does not need to be drained as stated in the fsm).
The crank dampener/pulley requires a pulley puller to take off. Also an impact wrench would be helpful but not necessary to remove the retaining bolt. If you don't have one, you can use a long 3/8" socket extension to stabilize the pulley as you loosen the bolt. This is with the timing cover removed:
You must be registered for see images
Finally got the head off, and luckily everything looks intact under there. Basically it's just a matter of removing the cam gear, slipping it off the chain, and unbolting and removing the right chain guide while just unbolting the left chain guide from the head. There are some details here that you'll want to use a fsm for. Then of course removing the exhaust, which you can do before the cat at the v-band type clamp or after the cat at a 2 bolt flange. I did the latter because the clamp was kind of frozen in place and it's in a tight spot.
You must be registered for see images
And then the matter of taking the valvetrain apart. I've used the overhead "head on block" spring compressor in the past and it was very frustrating, so I picked up another style that works like a C-clamp and is absolutely massive - after the first couple springs were removed it takes just a minute per. With everything cleaned up and making sure the #6 exhaust valve was straight, I put everything back together and torqued it to within spec (11ft-lbs). I highly recommend using a magnet (like the little telescoping magnets with the mirror on the other end) to pick up the pieces that hold the retainers once you compress the spring. It is much, much easier than trying to use pliers and risk losing these tiny things.
Old valvesprings:
You must be registered for see images
And with the new springs installed:
You must be registered for see images
I decided against doing the other head. Just don't have the time/patience to do it, plus the springs can be replaced without the head being removed so I can tackle this at another date if I feel the urge. Now just looking forward to getting it all back together and starting it up and hopefully reporting back here with good news.
If anyone wants to tackle this, it's definitely very time consuming but doable for the average weekend mechanic. That said, it may be fairly cheap to have a shop just replace the springs without removing the head and everything else. Also if anyone has questions about any of the steps, I'm happy to help out.
The Jeep is up and running great. Was delayed by the crank pulley of all things - couldn't find the Miller special tool to reinstall it. Finally rented the tool online from Air Ram. Once I got that everything went back together in no time.
As far as replacing the springs prophylactically...I can see making a case for it. There is a tool available to remove the springs without pulling the heads, so the cost to replace all 12 springs would be under $100 including the tool rental. Despite that, the chances of a spring breaking are still very low.
Any questions on the process, feel free to PM me.
As far as replacing the springs prophylactically...I can see making a case for it. There is a tool available to remove the springs without pulling the heads, so the cost to replace all 12 springs would be under $100 including the tool rental. Despite that, the chances of a spring breaking are still very low.
Any questions on the process, feel free to PM me.
