Project: My crazy Jeep

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sota

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I think my alignment was out...

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sota

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Updated numbers

Code:
[B]
       -- before --  -- after lift --  - plow testing -  - 2014  - 
       --  lift  --  -- un-settled --  --dn --  --up --  - 12/16 -
[U]wheel  f2h   f2f      f2h      f2f     f2h      f2h      f2h      [/U][/B]
LF     18"  32"      22 1/4"  36 1/4"  21 3/4"  21 1/2"  21 1/4"
RF     18"  32"      22 3/8"  36 3/8"                    21 1/2"
LR     19"  32 3/4"  21 1/2"  35 1/4"                    21"
RR     19"  32 3/4"  21 3/4"  35 1/2"                    21 1/4"
 

sota

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unclear how much farther it'll go at this point.
also not sure if I should or can do anything about the 1/4" delta between left and right.
I was measuring some other bits underneath on both sides and they're level (plow bracket adapter holes) so I'm fairly confident that the delta is caused by the fender flares possibly being skewed slightly somehow. not sure what else I could measure. door seams or fender creases maybe?
 

CzarKJ

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From what I have read all Jeeps have a lean. I wouldn't worry about that small. If it was 1/2 or more I would be checking things.
 

sota

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agreed. 1/4" could easily be error in measurement. I'm just looking forward to it finishing settling and getting the shop to tweak the alignment one more time.
 

tommudd

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All Libertys even the KKs have a drivers side lean
On my own I have always added about 1/8 more to that side to keep it level
One really nice thing about the coilovers from JBA, easily adjusted so its all level
 

sota

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I figure if I felt like it at some point, I could just loosen the cleavis bolt and give the strut body some "English" persuasion and make up the difference.

Right now I just want it to finish settling so I can get the alignment done again and hopefully get some negative camber dialed in.
 

sota

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ordered one of these...
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and a new 2 5/16" ball to go with it. 6" drop, 10 1/4" pin to ball, 16000# rating. old draw bar was 4" drop, 8" pin to ball, 6000# rating. should have NO issues now hitching up the trailer, nor should I have to pull the spare any longer. would have been nice to keep the shorter 8" length, but none of them were forged and I figured for the few extra bucks I'd rather have the strength of a forged bar.
 

sota

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yea... still a little sore a particular someone didn't mention that in my suspension search thread. even as little as a shout of "have you looked at the adjustable ones?" :D
 

John3seventeen

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I'm sure it was mentioned a thousand times somewhere:whip::happy175:

Must have been their day off when you posted:happy175:



Jk:gr_grin:
 

tommudd

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You would think someone that was buying a suspension kit , that has been on the forums a long time, that researches everything would of at least read one thread on lifts. I mean they researched snow plows until the cows came home...................:whip:
 

sota

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turns out my new neighbor is a metal fabricator. talked to him about making up the pipe edge for the plow. he's going to get me some pipe, cut the slit in it, grab some plates and we'll be making up the new edge for it.
 

tommudd

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ordered one of these...
You must be registered for see images attach

and a new 2 5/16" ball to go with it. 6" drop, 10 1/4" pin to ball, 16000# rating. old draw bar was 4" drop, 8" pin to ball, 6000# rating. should have NO issues now hitching up the trailer, nor should I have to pull the spare any longer. would have been nice to keep the shorter 8" length, but none of them were forged and I figured for the few extra bucks I'd rather have the strength of a forged bar.

I need one of those in an 8 or so drop. Like the looks of them but most places here want way too much.
I'm running a 6 inch drop and still had to lift my trailer up 4 inches and run 265-70-16s on it to be almost level. Like to drop the trailer back down, hard to get a lawn mower or anything loaded that high:icon_lol:
 

sota

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played with getting the plow on and off without killing myself. it's a little tempermental but I think I finally have the feet set at the right height.
 

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