Qs about a dealer's problem list: 2004 Liberty

[bon22]

Hey all!

We got a nice little 2004 Liberty from a local dealer that we're very pleased about. I've done some (emphasis here) car repair in the past and had no problem when they gave me a list of minor defects they found in the car when it was traded in. This baby has <100k miles and was a good price, so I'm excited to get it into pristine condition. They gave me the list as follows:
Hood struts
Radiator leak
Rack and Pinion
Front Drive Shaft
TCase leak
Rear bearing noise
Multifunction switch

I've already replaced the hood struts, changed the oil and now I'm ready to go. The first thing I've noticed with the car is that once I get up to 40 mph it starts this humm sound that I can't localize well. It doesn't matter if I'm pressing the gas, or the brakes.
Is something on this list indicative of what is causing that sound? I'd like to fix the radiator and whatever this humming problem first.
Thanks!

 

[Conundrum2006]

Sounds like bearing noise.
Possibly front drive shaft, usually bearing noise is most common.

Radiator leak worries me because these 3.7 liberties are very susceptible to over heating and blowing the head gasket, all modern aluminum head engines are.


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[bon22]

Sounds like bearing noise.
Possibly front drive shaft, usually bearing noise is most common.

Radiator leak worries me because these 3.7 liberties are very susceptible to over heating and blowing the head gasket, all modern aluminum head engines are.


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Would you recommend me just taking it to a mechanic I know just to know exactly what's wrong then just do it myself?

 

[tommudd]

Hey all!

We got a nice little 2004 Liberty from a local dealer that we're very pleased about. I've done some (emphasis here) car repair in the past and had no problem when they gave me a list of minor defects they found in the car when it was traded in. This baby has <100k miles and was a good price, so I'm excited to get it into pristine condition. They gave me the list as follows:
Hood struts
EASY 5 MINUTE FIX
Radiator leak
NEW MOPAR RADIATOR, NOT HARD TO CHANGE MANY VIDEOS ON HOW TO DO IT, BUT ALSO REPLACE HOSES, BELT AND THERMOSTAT AS WELL
Rack and Pinion
THIS IS SOMEWHAT OF A MORE COMPLEX REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT THAT MECHANICALLY INCLINED
Front Drive Shaft
THERE ARE REBUILD KITS FOR THESE TAKES LONGER TO REMOVE THAN IT DOES TO REBUILD -50-60 BUCKS
TCase leak
THIS COULD BE ANYTHING, I WOULD CLEAN IT GOOD AND SEE WHERE EXACTLY ITS COMING FROM
Rear bearing noise
WAS THEY SURE ON THIS- BEST LEFT TO A PRO
Multifunction switch
EASY TO SWAP OUT, REMOVE STEERING WHEEL ETC

I've already replaced the hood struts, changed the oil and now I'm ready to go. The first thing I've noticed with the car is that once I get up to 40 mph it starts this humm sound that I can't localize well. It doesn't matter if I'm pressing the gas, or the brakes.
Is something on this list indicative of what is causing that sound? I'd like to fix the radiator and whatever this humming problem first.
Thanks!

HAVE YOU CHANGED THE FRONT AND REAR DIFF FLUID PLUS TRANSFER CASE IF NOT THIS NEEDS DONE
Again easy to do even for beginner

 

[bon22]

HAVE YOU CHANGED THE FRONT AND REAR DIFF FLUID PLUS TRANSFER CASE IF NOT THIS NEEDS DONE
Again easy to do even for beginner

Thanks for help! I'll get that diff fluid changed out tomorrow. I have a friend that has a wrangler and he's planning to help me out with it.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

That humming noise could be the rear head on the front driveshaft. See if the boot is messed up.

 

[JasonJ]

Tom nailed it on his inserted commentary... some of those items are simple, and good tasks for you to learn more from. A couple... out of the league of most novices and DIY'ers.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

One addition to Tom's list. Be SURE to use HOAT-type coolant when you change the radiator. Many shops will tell you their "universal" coolant will work fine. DO NOT LET THEM TALK YOU INTO UNIVERSAL COOLANT!

The owner's manual specifically calls for HOAT coolant - any other type will corrode the water pump impeller and cause sludge and other issues. O'Reilly's, NAPA and other parts stores carry Zerex GO5 coolant that is HOAT.

Dealerships in my area charge a very reasonable fee to do a cooling system flush and fill. Your system is cleaned up and you're sure they put in the proper coolant. No idea what a dealer would charge to replace the radiator on top of the flush but that repair can be a bit of a pain - just did it on mine and was spouting foul language all afternoon...

Bob

 

[sota]

how can a rad change on these things require cursing? I did a rad change on mom's pt cruiser in an hour, and it was pretty painless, considering how tight that engine bay is.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

I wish we had open cooling systems like newer XJs did or my WK did. No need to bleed, it does it on its own. I feel safer with that.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

how can a rad change on these things require cursing? I did a rad change on mom's pt cruiser in an hour, and it was pretty painless, considering how tight that engine bay is.

It's the way the rad is mounted.

There are square nuts that slide into a plastic bracket on the rad, and on mine the nut rusted/seized to the bolt. When I tried to remove the bolt the nut broke the plastic and just spun in the plastic bracket. Then I had to break the plastic bracket, blah blah blah

Probably the most frustrating repair project I've ever had on the KJ. There've been hiccups on other mods/repairs but nothing like that :favorites68:

Bob

 

[HoosierJeeper]

What did you end up doing?

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

What did you end up doing?

I got the replacement installed - had to break the plastic brackets to I could remove the radiator. For future insurance I was sure to put anti-seize on the bolts this time :favorites68:

Bob