Rear Drive Shaft-u-joints etc.

[LibertyTC]

Does anyone know if the factory band type clamps are available?
I suppose only the most further front one needs to be removed, as I'm going to pull driveshaft & re-new.
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Moog sealed u-joints looks to be same both at axle & output shaft correct?
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Is it rusty or what?
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:blah:

 

[HoosierJeeper]

Looks a little rusty but not bad.

I've had my driveshaft off a bunch of times and I've always been able to slide off/on without touching that band clamp.

 

[renegade 04]

If you need to remove the band clamp just replace it with a zip tie.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

Skip the Moog U joints too - didn't last for me. Spicers are good if you can find Japan or USA made ones, but the local driveshaft shop here stopped using them since they went Chinese and quality suffered. He sold me Neapcos...they're OEM for Ford.

 

[LibertyTC]

ya IDK about now finding USA made Spicers, but Neapcos does sound interesting.
HJ do you have the part # of them on file?
Here is the listing I get from Neapcos pdf ...why 2?
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[HoosierJeeper]

I can't figure out which I got...sorry! Plus I don't even know if ours would be the same. I'll do more digging.

 

[duderz7]

You can get a universal cv boot clamp from any parts store. They're cheap, but work.

 

[LibertyTC]

Gosh IDK what joints the dealer is selling/ :smokin: but my discounted price would be $150 plus tax for 2 Mopar 05015694AB.
They looked up the VIN and both U-joints the same.
Rock Auto has a good list of available joints..:gr_grin: SKF, Delco, Dana etc.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,2004,liberty,3.7l+v6,1434760,drivetrain,universal+joint,2392
Now I have to start looking to see what is made in USA & available from my other parts house here in Canada.
I'm not getting them shipped form US & paying shipping in US $ -no no.

 

[LibertyTC]

Here is a really good video for anyone wanting to tackle replacing their own U-joints.
What I like most is that he covers steps like marking-de-burring, cleaning channel for clip & for the bores, and checking for smooth play all way around.
I know an owner would take the time do do it right, would a shop do the same?
I think I would rather do it myself and know its done correctly.
Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5gOeBE-ylQw

 

[HoosierJeeper]

I took mine to a guy I use that's retired for the most part, he just does stuff like that now. Easier than playing with a hammer and a vice or a ball joint press. If I did it I would've known it was done wrong.

 

[LibertyTC]

Found the driveshaft sticker....May 26th ( midweek- Wednesday) 2004 ha ha..
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I wonder if the OEM U-Joints are Dana/Spicer's??
I'm also happy driveshaft is made here!! :icon_smile:

 

[u2slow]

ya IDK about now finding USA made Spicers, but Neapcos does sound interesting.
HJ do you have the part # of them on file?
Here is the listing I get from Neapcos pdf ...why 2?
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The 6spd/np241 KJs have a larger (spicer 1330) ujoint at the tcase. Autos with the np231 or 242 use spicer 1310 for both.

 

[turblediesel]

Here is a really good video for anyone wanting to tackle replacing their own U-joints.
What I like most is that he covers steps like marking-de-burring, cleaning channel for clip & for the bores, and checking for smooth play all way around.
I know an owner would take the time do do it right, would a shop do the same?
I think I would rather do it myself and know its done correctly.
Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5gOeBE-ylQw

No youtube here but here are the best tips I've been taught for installing u-joints:

* Put the new u-joints in the freezer overnight. This thickens the grease and holds the needle bearings in place so that one or two of the needle bearings don't go astray and sit in the bottom of the cap eliminating necessary clearance and cracking the cap when the BFH comes into play.

* Once the new u-joint is installed it might seem tight... smack the ears of the yoke and shaft between the caps and round/shaft parts to seat the u-joint caps against the retaining clips. One good rap per cap usually does it.

* If your new u-joints have grease fittings align the fitting on the front u-joint with the back. Much less dickering when you're under there with a grease gun.

 

[Cardhu]

the super strenght ones are typically put in a "precision" box parent company still moog. If you buy greasable they require a needle adapter and the screw to add grease is in the cap.

Always had a funny vibe with them.

went to machine shop to balance the shaft and redo with greasable spicers, was a big improvement and about 180 bucks CAD including paint, balance, and ujoints installed.

Mopar wanted ~12 bucks for the replacement clamp plus i bought the pliers, went to to zip ties for everytime i greased the slip yoke.