Rear Spring Clunk after install?

[Whelan]

I replaced the struts with KYB and a set of springs (can't recall if they are Moog or Mopar). What I've noticed is that on certain bumps and bounds along the road is a clunk from the rear. It almost sounds like the spring is contacting metal instead of the rubber isolators.

Install was simple, once the struts were out I lowered the rear differential and pulled the old springs, installed appropriately (the right way facing up) and left the OEM isolators. They seemed pretty thin but could/should that isolator be replaced when doing springs? The car is not bottoming out so the bump stops don't seem to be the issue. Any thoughts?

 

[jeeplib05]

Highly doubt it's the springs, but if your shocks aren't torqued correctly or something about them is malfunctioning then they'll clunk
My Bilstein's did the same until I put the bushing kit on now they're fine
The springs cant make contact with anything but the upper/lower iso's

 

[tommudd]

I replaced the struts with KYB and a set of springs (can't recall if they are Moog or Mopar). What I've noticed is that on certain bumps and bounds along the road is a clunk from the rear. It almost sounds like the spring is contacting metal instead of the rubber isolators.

Install was simple, once the struts were out I lowered the rear differential and pulled the old springs, installed appropriately (the right way facing up) and left the OEM isolators. They seemed pretty thin but could/should that isolator be replaced when doing springs? The car is not bottoming out so the bump stops don't seem to be the issue. Any thoughts?

Most likely upper shock bolt

 

[Whelan]

So I guess I should re-torque. I believe it was 85ftlbs.

 

[kejobe]

I had an '01 Ram and the front shocks were notorious for clunking if they weren't tightened to h*ll and back. To follow suit with the others, start be checking and making sure the shocks are tight.

 

[Whelan]

Diagnosed to the bushing on the "boomerang". I'll call it that for now but its the V-arm that sits over the differential and has one bolt holding it up. I'll be replacing it this week.

 

[tommudd]

Diagnosed to the bushing on the "boomerang". I'll call it that for now but its the V-arm that sits over the differential and has one bolt holding it up. I'll be replacing it this week.

Tri-link, so bad ball joint then. Replace with MOPAR unit .

 

[TAT]

Tri-link, so bad ball joint then. Replace with MOPAR unit .

I would listen to MUDD! He hasn't steered me wrong yet! He's also helped with me going from mild to some of the best stuff on the market for these Liberty's!!! Thanks for that!!lol Budget build right out the window! Thats not true, just went to a bigger budget! lol

 

[dude1116]

Diagnosed to the bushing on the "boomerang". I'll call it that for now but its the V-arm that sits over the differential and has one bolt holding it up. I'll be replacing it this week.

One bolt??? :Insane:

 

[Royy]

One bolt??? :Insane:

I'm guessing he means the pinch bolt for the ball joint stud.

 

[Whelan]

So the question is should I just replace bushings and the joint or start with bushings. Driving around a little more it doesn't seem to happen when I hit a bump with the right side of the car, more prominent with the left.

 

[tommudd]

My understanding is this is the part, not sure which of the bushings it is but would it be best to just replace all of them? Also not my pic

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Replace the whole thing with a new MOPAR unit IMO
Most times when you try and replace bushings/ ball joint the metal bends etc
plus a lot of the bushings aren't worth even installing

 

[Whelan]

Replace the whole thing with a new MOPAR unit IMO
Most times when you try and replace bushings/ ball joint the metal bends etc
plus a lot of the bushings aren't worth even installing

What metal bends? That may confuse me a bit as the whole unit is $480 vs. $50 for each bushing plus $100 for the ball joint.

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[Leeann]

The boomerang. It's almost impossible to press out the old without bending the boomerang itself.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

If it feels like it's coming from one side, it could be a shock. I know yours are newer but I had a few Bilstein ones go bad with under 30k on them. I had a hell of a clunk in the rear, happened on compression and thought it was the trilink. Ended up being the driver's rear shock. Lay on the ground and rock the KJ back and forth, look for lots of movement, if a bushing is shot it'll be obvious.

 

[tommudd]

What metal bends? That may confuse me a bit as the whole unit is $480 vs. $50 for each bushing plus $100 for the ball joint.

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Metal around the bushings and ball joint
Sometimes cheap is expensive in the end

 

[Whelan]

Understood on all points. The shocks are KYB, maybe I'll start with the tightening and give it a quick drive. No sense in dumping money if it's not needed, just saved hundreds doing the coil packs, plugs, and a new PCV valve on my GLI.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

If it feels like it's coming from one side, it could be a shock. I know yours are newer but I had a few Bilstein ones go bad with under 30k on them. I had a hell of a clunk in the rear, happened on compression and thought it was the trilink. Ended up being the driver's rear shock. Lay on the ground and rock the KJ back and forth, look for lots of movement, if a bushing is shot it'll be obvious.

My wording is off on this. The shock had puked fluid out and was internally bad. The rock test for the bushings is for the trilink.

 

[Whelan]

I did the rocking as did a bigger buddy of mine, not a peep. So I keep going back to the strut, maybe I can get under there tonight and check. I torqued to 85ftlbs. initially.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

If the warranty procedure is easy swap it out. Otherwise maybe try switching the shocks and see if the noise follows.