Rear UCA is shot, help!

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mindbomb

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OK so I verified my rear UCA bushings + BJ are bad, causing the loud clunking noise coming from rear when driving. Arm itself is ok but a bit rusty.

Jeep shop quoted me outrageous prices for separate parts on arm, bushings x2, BJ then labor on pressings x2, labor on arm, alignment etc etc >>600$... I told them to go %$@ themselves and took my KJ..

Now -
Original MOPAR part is 470$+ (jeez!), simple google/amazon/ebay search provides a range of after market parts that come complete with the bushings+BJ pressed in, at varying price range from 62$ to 129$ - from different manufacturers:
MOOG, MAC, Crown, Evan-fisher, APDTY, Mevotech

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My questions to you:
  1. Which one should I get?
  2. How big of a PITA is the installation? Special tools/procedures required? I'm quite a noob with car work but got (most of) the tools.
  3. Any mods I can make to prevent premature failures due to the extra stress from the 3" lift? (the OEM arm failed 3 months after the lift, but lasted 14 years before, and no I can't afford JBA long arms now)

Thanks!
 
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teeje

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Installation is not that bad. Jack the rear end up remove the two bolts on the body and the three bolts on the diff and the one through bolt on the ball joint. Disconnect the shocks to give you more room and install in reverse order. I've done it. Replaced mine over a year ago and it was 80$ still in good shape

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tommudd

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OK so I verified my rear UCA bushings + BJ are bad, causing the loud clunking noise coming from rear when driving. Arm itself is ok but a bit rusty.

Jeep shop quoted me outrageous prices for separate parts on arm, bushings x2, BJ then labor on pressings x2, labor on arm, alignment etc etc >>600$... I told them to go %$@ themselves and took my KJ..

Now -
Original MOPAR part is 470$+ (jeez!), simple google/amazon/ebay search provides a range of after market parts that come complete with the bushings+BJ pressed in, at varying price range from 62$ to 129$ - from different manufacturers:
MOOG, MAC, Crown, Evan-fisher, APDTY

You must be registered for see images attach


My questions to you:
  1. Which one should I get? MOPAR ONLY
  2. How big of a PITA is the installation? Special tools/procedures required? I'm quite a noob with car work but got (most of) the tools. NOT THAT HARD REALLY
  3. Any mods I can make to prevent premature failures due to the extra stress from the 3" lift? (the OEM arm failed 3 months after the lift, but lasted 14 years before, and no I can't afford JBA long arms now) JBA HAS A EXTENDED BRACKET

Thanks!
The cheap are cheap, only last a few months
 

mindbomb

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Well, there's two conflicting responses :)

tomm you saying 500$ MOPAR is a must?
 

HoosierJeeper

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I might consider the Crown one...not sure.

I got a Mopar one with 60k on it for $60. Check used.
 

krisP

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cheap ones dont last long at all....as TJ said , i got very good at changing that thing, have a modded one now, so if youre gonna pay 500 for mopar....might as well get the JBA trilink or IRO one

my original rear UCA was maxed out and making contact with the body near the bushings....so if youre lifted they go even faster
 

adamkrz

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You could get a good used Mopar one and use the JBA extention, This is what worked for me, The crown and mevotech were both junk - lasted only 6 months or so with a lifted jeep.
 

Royy

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Installation is not that bad. Jack the rear end up remove the two bolts on the body and the three bolts on the diff and the one through bolt on the ball joint. Disconnect the shocks to give you more room and install in reverse order. I've done it. Replaced mine over a year ago and it was 80$ still in good shape

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And you'll probably have to remove the rear sway bar and the weird vibration dampener, to be able to access all three of those bolts on the bracket on the differential.
I'd say power tools are a must - those 3 bracket bolts are big (21mm), torqued down really well, and covered in loctite. I just did this the other day, and with only hand tools getting those 3 bolts out is hell.
 

teeje

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And you'll probably have to remove the rear sway bar and the weird vibration dampener, to be able to access all three of those bolts on the bracket on the differential.
I'd say power tools are a must - those 3 bracket bolts are big (21mm), torqued down really well, and covered in loctite. I just did this the other day, and with only hand tools getting those 3 bolts out is hell.
Good thing I used power tools

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mindbomb

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You could get a good used Mopar one and use the JBA extention, This is what worked for me, The crown and mevotech were both junk - lasted only 6 months or so with a lifted jeep.

Thanks for the input!
Do you mean this product? Where does it go? (JBA's PDF instructions link is broken)
 

mindbomb

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YES a must
Most I got out of any aftermarket was 3 months , that was while I was waiting for a Mopar to ship
Tom

OK, I'll look for a used one.. How bad is it driving around (possibly off roading) with bad rear UCA bushings?

ALSO - does anyone have an active link to the Y extension installation guide?
 
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mindbomb

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Actually maybe it makes sense to just get bushings (and possibly a ball joint) and press them in?
Again - should I ONLY look at mopar parts?
 

u2slow

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If lifted, put the JBA extension in, or IMO you'll be changing the bushings again real soon. Original bushings lasted well. I think its because they were well broken in before lifting. Dormans (made in Taiwan) lasted about a month. Moogs (made in China) are in there now.

Repeated replacement of the bushings will stretch out the holes in the arm. I had to tack-weld in my last set when I added the extension. Been fine for 7 months now.
 

HoosierJeeper

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OK, I'll look for a used one.. How bad is it driving around (possibly off roading) with bad rear UCA bushings?

ALSO - does anyone have an active link to the Y extension installation guide?

If it's letting the axle move around a lot, I can't imagine that's helping things, but if it's just a minor clunk and still seems secure I would feel safe with it.

Actually maybe it makes sense to just get bushings (and possibly a ball joint) and press them in?
Again - should I ONLY look at mopar parts?

I don't think many people have had good luck with pressing old ones out and new ones in without bending the arm. I'd look for a used one.
 

krisP

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Need some guidance, where does this thing go? Inbetween the Ball joint bracket and the top?
Any chance you have the install guide pdf?

instructions come with it.....i didnt like it and it didnt work well in my case...sold it within 2 weeks. Idk how its working for that person, hes on here somehwere
 

rjkj2005

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So it's a little rusty. Moog ball joint and bushing can be gotten for all little over a $100. You remove soak all three in penetrating oil for a day. Take it to a machine shop and have them press out the old and press in the new. Shouldn't cost more than $100. Then you reinstall.

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