Rear UCA is shot, help!

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u2slow

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Need some guidance, where does this thing go? Inbetween the Ball joint bracket and the top?
Any chance you have the install guide pdf?

It goes between the bj bracket and the cast diff. I really wanted to make my own, but I simply didn't have the downtime. It levels the arm out so the bushings sit a neutral, unstrained position at ride height.

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jeeptorino68

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OK so I verified my rear UCA bushings + BJ are bad, causing the loud clunking noise coming from rear when driving. Arm itself is ok but a bit rusty.

Jeep shop quoted me outrageous prices for separate parts on arm, bushings x2, BJ then labor on pressings x2, labor on arm, alignment etc etc >>600$... I told them to go %$@ themselves and took my KJ..

Now -
Original MOPAR part is 470$+ (jeez!), simple google/amazon/ebay search provides a range of after market parts that come complete with the bushings+BJ pressed in, at varying price range from 62$ to 129$ - from different manufacturers:
MOOG, MAC, Crown, Evan-fisher, APDTY, Mevotech

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My questions to you:
  1. Which one should I get?
  2. How big of a PITA is the installation? Special tools/procedures required? I'm quite a noob with car work but got (most of) the tools.
  3. Any mods I can make to prevent premature failures due to the extra stress from the 3" lift? (the OEM arm failed 3 months after the lift, but lasted 14 years before, and no I can't afford JBA long arms now)

Thanks!


so far so good on my MOOG unit with JBA extension bracket
6 months and 7000 miles on it so far...
 

rjkj2005

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I'd buy a cheep one on line then replace the ball joint and bushing with Moog.. then you'll have one as good as factory but at half the cost.

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mindbomb

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So it's a little rusty. Moog ball joint and bushing can be gotten for all little over a $100. You remove soak all three in penetrating oil for a day. Take it to a machine shop and have them press out the old and press in the new. Shouldn't cost more than $100. Then you reinstall.

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But I'm being told here that moog will fail in 3-6 months..


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u2slow

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But I'm being told here that moog will fail in 3-6 months..

IMO, they're all going to fail quickly with the angle imposed by 2" or more lift. FWIW, I haven't worn out a UCA balljoint yet... just the bushings... 2 sets before adding the y-link extension.
 

mindbomb

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After doing some homework I realized that there's moog R series which is cheap Chinese crap with moog label on it, and there's "problem solver" series which is high quality bushings and parts really manufactured by Moog (couldn't find complete assembly for the solver series though).


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u2slow

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After doing some homework I realized that there's moog R series which is cheap Chinese crap with moog label on it, and there's "problem solver" series which is high quality bushings and parts really manufactured by Moog (couldn't find complete assembly for the solver series though).

Mine are Moog problem solvers... they're made in china too.
 

mindbomb

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Mine are Moog problem solvers... they're made in china too.



Everything is made in china nowadays. It does not say anything about quality.

R series = cheap crap with brand label
PS series = high quality. Probably not the same manufacturing facility.

Did you find compete UCA assembly from PS series or you pressed in the new bushings and ball joint yourself?


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dude1116

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Just an FYI on replacement - disconnecting shocks is completely not necessary. Don't even jack the rear up. You should be able to pull it out without jacking the Jeep up at all. The only thing I don't know about is pulling the bracket off of the ball joint (to reinstall on a new arm) because I have a custom setup.
 

mindbomb

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Just an FYI on replacement - disconnecting shocks is completely not necessary. Don't even jack the rear up. You should be able to pull it out without jacking the Jeep up at all. The only thing I don't know about is pulling the bracket off of the ball joint (to reinstall on a new arm) because I have a custom setup.



Isn't it supposed to be just 3 bolts?


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tommudd

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So it's a little rusty. Moog ball joint and bushing can be gotten for all little over a $100. You remove soak all three in penetrating oil for a day. Take it to a machine shop and have them press out the old and press in the new. Shouldn't cost more than $100. Then you reinstall.

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Only works at times, rest of the time the tri-link folds up like a wet noodle, not worth it in the long run
 

tommudd

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Isn't it supposed to be just 3 bolts?


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Yes and no depends on how you do it, I've had them rusted on so bad that the whole bracket had to come off before on some of the ones I have swapped out. All depends
 

tommudd

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I'd buy a cheep one on line then replace the ball joint and bushing with Moog.. then you'll have one as good as factory but at half the cost.

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Not quite as good as factory
 

mindbomb

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Yes and no depends on how you do it, I've had them rusted on so bad that the whole bracket had to come off before on some of the ones I have swapped out. All depends



Ok good tip I'll go soak it in blaster this weekend to be on the safe side. Btw my BJ is not shot just the bushing but I'll replace with new one anyway.

Now you still recommend not to press out and in the bushings off the current arm? Is there no smart way to place it in the press so it won't fold?

And - recommend I get the Y link extender from JBA?? I'm reading people had limited success with this part.


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dude1116

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Isn't it supposed to be just 3 bolts?


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2 bolts for the arm bushings into the body, 3 bolts to take the pinch bracket off of the axle housing, and 1 bolt to unpinch the bracket from the ball joint. Then you need to spread that bracket as best you can and pull it off.
 

u2slow

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Did you find compete UCA assembly from PS series or you pressed in the new bushings and ball joint yourself?

I used problem-solver bushings in the original UCA. They are tack-welded in because the holes stretched. Balljoint was a cheapy. (The original was still ok.) I don't have a press... so I had to resort to pounding them in and out with makeshift dies.
 

tommudd

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2 bolts for the arm bushings into the body, 3 bolts to take the pinch bracket off of the axle housing, and 1 bolt to unpinch the bracket from the ball joint. Then you need to spread that bracket as best you can and pull it off.

Be very careful if you try and spread that bracket, I've never had to , but have had the opportunity to sell 3 brackets because people tried to spread it.
 
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