RLE Trans downshift issue

[JustSumDad]

2005 Libby 3.7L V6 auto RLE transmission question.
Just had a look at a KJ for my daughter, looking at an 05 with a date stamp of 06/05
I did not get under to see if it was the four plug trans but I understand there is a good chance it is based on date code.
Anyhow, I may run away depending on what others say here about this issue.
When decelerating, brake on or off, it does a hard downshift at about 52kph (about 32mph) I think this is coming from 4 to 3 not sure but its a good clunk, can feel it in the seat... Easy to reproduce so I did it over and over trying to see if it was driveline or what. Always at the same speed, easiest way to test was going up a slight hill, at say 70kph as long as we got to high gear - let off the gas and let it decel to about 50kph.
does not do this when manually downshifting.
All upshifts are smooth. Has a slight bit of 'clunk' going from reverse to drive, slight enough to ignore... suspect a ujoint but planning another visit to check things if this is something that can be reasonably fixed.
Any ideas on this?
Thanx

 

[JustSumDad]

Some peeps on other info sources are indicating that maybe the shift solenoid is the cause, or a sticky valve.
I wonder if a sticky valve would cause such a specific speed that can be so easily be reproduced.

Hope someone with good A.T. knowledge on these can chime in

 

[65Corvair]

I am not a transmission expert, but the clunk from reverse to drive may be the upper ball joint (#2) or rubber bushing (#1) in the rear upper control arm.

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[KJowner]

The thump from the rear upper arm is very noticeable but it should happen at any speed when you accelerate or slow down, the specific speed mentioned sounds more gearbox to me, but the arm is a cheaper option so worth a look.

 

[DadOSix]

I am not a transmission expert, but the clunk from reverse to drive may be the upper ball joint (#2) or rubber bushing (#1) in the rear upper control arm.

You must be registered for see images attach

Don’t forget to add in #5 - lower control arm bushings. These are replaced under a recall, but do not last forever. When these go bad, the jeep is all over the road with a pronounced sway - one way on acceleration, opposite way on deceleration. My 04 had been done before, but when Son #4 brought her home from college, I found they were shot again. The left side is easy to do, right side, you have to contend with loosening / or / dropping the exhaust to get the bolt out.

 

[JustSumDad]

Don’t forget to add in #5 - lower control arm bushings. These are replaced under a recall, but do not last forever. When these go bad, the jeep is all over the road with a pronounced sway - one way on acceleration, opposite way on deceleration. My 04 had been done before, but when Son #4 brought her home from college, I found they were shot again. The left side is easy to do, right side, you have to contend with loosening / or / dropping the exhaust to get the bolt out.

the jeep drives a1 all handling feels great.

 

[LibertyTC]

My 42RLE has experienced sloppy down shifts & I wonder if on level ground it could be a tad low on ATF+4 ??
Take it for a 20 min drive at hwy speed, & then check the dipstick fluid level. Just adding a bit more fluid may help.
Is the fluid clean? Have you ever had the transmission filter serviced?

 

[JustSumDad]

My 42RLE has experienced sloppy down shifts & I wonder if on level ground it could be a tad low on ATF+4 ??
Take it for a 20 min drive at hwy speed, & then check the dipstick fluid level. Just adding a bit more fluid may help.
Is the fluid clean? Have you ever had the transmission filter serviced?

Sorry if I was not clear, it happens going up hill, down hill, level ground, and braking. It simply happens anytime the vehicle transitions from any speed where high gear was attained to below 52kph - I assume this is the speed the transmission is programed to perform a downshift?

I do not own the vehicle, I am looking at purchasing it, this is me trying to find out if its worth pursuing or going to be too expensive to fix.

Fluid seemed fine. We drove it for about half hour exploring this issue and O2 sensor codes, seemed like it was more pronounced once fully warmed up.


Thanx for your input