tjkj2002
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To bad that person doesn't know s$%t about oil and holes can be blown all over his so called "facts".
Royal Purple Synthetic Oil
- Thread starter theblueliberty
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This is what I found on MOLY:
The molybdenum disulfide molecules in MOLY arrange themselves into layers, into which each molybdenum atom is sandwiched between two sulfur atoms. The sulfur atoms are attracted to metal, and therefore become plated, or bonded, on to each of the adjacent bearing surfaces. In between these two platings, further layers of molecules form. The sulfur-to-metal bonding is very strong, but the sulfur-to-sulfur bonding between adjacent molecules is very weak, allowing molecules to slide freely over one another. In this way direct contact of metal-to-metal surfaces is prevented and friction is considerably reduced. Consequently, local heating and wear is inhibited and protection is achieved even under extreme conditions of pressure and temperature.
The molybdenum disulfide plating is, in effect, a separating layer of immense strength, greater than the yield stress of most metals...and in addition it possesses the low coefficient of friction of .03 to .06 which gives more efficient lubrication combined with greater protection.
You can probably use it in higher mileage engines, since it loosens up with higher mileage. Some people switch to a thicker oil as miles go up.
IF you can buy the MOLY additive at the dealer, then it should be approved for use in the engine. The Chrysler dealer where I bought the Liberty, sells it in their service department.
The military uses it, extensively. Moly is not a cure all lubricant. It will not correct mechanical defects or cause old worn or worn parts to be like new. Properly used it can double the life of equipment and increase the mileage 10% to 25% and as stated, it is available to those who desire the best protection available for diesels, gas engines, compressors and industrial equipment.
The molybdenum disulfide molecules in MOLY arrange themselves into layers, into which each molybdenum atom is sandwiched between two sulfur atoms. The sulfur atoms are attracted to metal, and therefore become plated, or bonded, on to each of the adjacent bearing surfaces. In between these two platings, further layers of molecules form. The sulfur-to-metal bonding is very strong, but the sulfur-to-sulfur bonding between adjacent molecules is very weak, allowing molecules to slide freely over one another. In this way direct contact of metal-to-metal surfaces is prevented and friction is considerably reduced. Consequently, local heating and wear is inhibited and protection is achieved even under extreme conditions of pressure and temperature.
The molybdenum disulfide plating is, in effect, a separating layer of immense strength, greater than the yield stress of most metals...and in addition it possesses the low coefficient of friction of .03 to .06 which gives more efficient lubrication combined with greater protection.
You can probably use it in higher mileage engines, since it loosens up with higher mileage. Some people switch to a thicker oil as miles go up.
IF you can buy the MOLY additive at the dealer, then it should be approved for use in the engine. The Chrysler dealer where I bought the Liberty, sells it in their service department.
The military uses it, extensively. Moly is not a cure all lubricant. It will not correct mechanical defects or cause old worn or worn parts to be like new. Properly used it can double the life of equipment and increase the mileage 10% to 25% and as stated, it is available to those who desire the best protection available for diesels, gas engines, compressors and industrial equipment.
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tjkj2002
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The military does not use it,I was a mechanic in the military for over 9 years and never saw the stuff,not even once.The only fluids I saw was recycled 15W40 diesel oil,30w oil,10w oil,,80/90 gear oil,50w gear oil,DEXIII ATF,Ethylene Glycol,and DOT 5 silicone brake fluid,no additives what so ever then again we never changed to oil either really until a new engine was installed or the lab told us to.
Deviations
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One thing I did find in my searches yesterday was that all of the sythetics use moly. Most at levels around 225, but Royal Purple was over 300.
It's about $1.50 more that Amsoil & Valvoline Synpower per quart, but doesn't test any better than either of the other two. I din't spend much time on Mobile 1, because it's a hydrocracked dino rather than a start from scratch synthetic.
It's about $1.50 more that Amsoil & Valvoline Synpower per quart, but doesn't test any better than either of the other two. I din't spend much time on Mobile 1, because it's a hydrocracked dino rather than a start from scratch synthetic.
tjkj2002
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The Extended Performance Mobil 1 is there true synthetic.
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tjkj2002, how LONG ago was that nine years of service you had, and what BRANCH, where you never saw the stuff? You assumed I meant all lubricant applications, no, my information was simply on the use of Molybdenum, what it IS, and that it is used in the Military. Though yes, they have used it in lubricants, not my fault you never saw any. The lubricant itself meets military specification MIL-PRF-7866C (MIL-M-7866C).
They use the spray cans of lubricant, with Moly, for small arms, including fully automatic weapons.
Moly is also used in Metal Alloys for Microelectronic Packaging. Including military, aerospace, communications, computer and medical applications. Industrial and Military applications required stronger steels with greater resistance to corrosion and damage.
The First World War saw the demand for molybdenum rise dramatically as alloyed steels used for transportation, and armor plating increased with the war effort. The corrosive properties of uninhibited or dry moly have been well documented by military testing as far back as 1968.
Gold-plated molybdenum wire (a military specification): It is s a proven solderless Z-axis connector technology that offers exceptional mechanical and electrical performance. At the heart of the technology is a unique all metal contact formed from a single gold-plated molybdenum wire. This reliable contact delivers unmatched mechanical, and electrical benefits in a wide variety of applications, with over 10 years of use in a wide variety of Military and Aerospace connector applications on platforms such as the F-15, F/A-18, GRIPEN, and the Comanche Helicopter. Also used in Stinger Missile, Small Diameter Bomb, Maverick, Iridium Satellite, and ULE Module for Spacecraft.
Royco 363 (with Moly) is used by the military for Hydraulic, Aircraft, Greases, and Lubricating oils; for MIL-PRF-7870C specifications.
As I said, Molybdenum is used EXTENSIVELY in the Military...
They use the spray cans of lubricant, with Moly, for small arms, including fully automatic weapons.
Moly is also used in Metal Alloys for Microelectronic Packaging. Including military, aerospace, communications, computer and medical applications. Industrial and Military applications required stronger steels with greater resistance to corrosion and damage.
The First World War saw the demand for molybdenum rise dramatically as alloyed steels used for transportation, and armor plating increased with the war effort. The corrosive properties of uninhibited or dry moly have been well documented by military testing as far back as 1968.
Gold-plated molybdenum wire (a military specification): It is s a proven solderless Z-axis connector technology that offers exceptional mechanical and electrical performance. At the heart of the technology is a unique all metal contact formed from a single gold-plated molybdenum wire. This reliable contact delivers unmatched mechanical, and electrical benefits in a wide variety of applications, with over 10 years of use in a wide variety of Military and Aerospace connector applications on platforms such as the F-15, F/A-18, GRIPEN, and the Comanche Helicopter. Also used in Stinger Missile, Small Diameter Bomb, Maverick, Iridium Satellite, and ULE Module for Spacecraft.
Royco 363 (with Moly) is used by the military for Hydraulic, Aircraft, Greases, and Lubricating oils; for MIL-PRF-7870C specifications.
As I said, Molybdenum is used EXTENSIVELY in the Military...
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Redbone
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NO SHIT!!!!!!! Ya think the military intelligence community ever thought of puttin some of that stuff in engine oil for their late model overhead cam 3.7s????
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MOTORCYCLE TIRES
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MOTORCYCLE TIRES
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Redbone
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I just noticed the Royal Purple ad on this page is pink. Enough with the pink already! I'm 100% for saving *******. Gotta be one of the best causes on this earth ..... but some things should just keep their colors. Royal Purple is purple - ******* r pink ..... kinda. Just sayin.
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Marijuana Vaporizers
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Marijuana Vaporizers
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x2. That's a myth which has been pretty much debunked.
http://www.askpatty.com/page.php?Title=Top_5_Synthetic_Oil_Myths/
http://online.wsj.com/article/SB122823129990372533.html
Redbone
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Some of the first synthetics on the market for cars had problems with leaks. Synthetic oil does not have the natural seal swelling properties that dino oil has. These first offerings left old wives tales in the pipeline that we see today. Synthetic oil has additives to compensate. For someone to say "I switched and had leaks" is not a scientific test. You can find people that say the same when changing from one brand of oil to another or even when switching weights within the same brand. To some small extent this may be correct. The different seal swelling packages between types and brands along with their cleaning packages can cause leaks on an engine. If not having leaks is your goal it is best to select a type, brand, & weight and never change.
I have my own plan - I change something in that mix every time. 3 qts. 10w-40 + 3 qts. of 5w-30 = 7.5w-35. I don't trust the companies to give me a 50/50 mix on their synthetic blends so I may use full synthetic in 3 of those quarts. My engine ends up with a REAL 50/50 blend of my custom 7.5w-35. Over the duration of 3-4 oil changes my engine gets a dose of every seal sweller and cleaning package in the name brand world.
And never NEVER EVER do I put a Fram oil filter on my engines ...... NEVER!!!!!!
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Uggs
I have my own plan - I change something in that mix every time. 3 qts. 10w-40 + 3 qts. of 5w-30 = 7.5w-35. I don't trust the companies to give me a 50/50 mix on their synthetic blends so I may use full synthetic in 3 of those quarts. My engine ends up with a REAL 50/50 blend of my custom 7.5w-35. Over the duration of 3-4 oil changes my engine gets a dose of every seal sweller and cleaning package in the name brand world.
And never NEVER EVER do I put a Fram oil filter on my engines ...... NEVER!!!!!!
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Uggs
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Edumakate me,why no Fram?
Redbone
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Worst filter on the market. End caps are paper and rumored to have come apart and plugged up oil passages ruining engines. So I started cutting some apart to compare. Compared to others I found that others did have metal end caps. I found the end caps were held in place better. I found the bypass valves on others were built better but more importantly the Fram's bypass valve DIDN'T SEAL. Also I found the anti-drain back rubber gasket did not seal. I found these problems on all 3 filters I took apart and found none of these problems on 5 other brands I took apart.
Now that I know what to look for I open up a Fram from time to time to see if they have improved. Nope! Still junk.
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Gm Foods
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Robsama
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I'm actually excited to change my oil. My last car was...well lets say it was above my comfort level under the hood. Now that I'm back in an American made vehicle I can't wait to start turning my wrenches and busting my knuckles. But now with all this scientific crap about moly's and what have you, I pose this question to make it easy on the weekend warriors.
1. What is your favorite type of oil (brand , weight, dino/syn)?
2. What is your favorite filter?
1. What is your favorite type of oil (brand , weight, dino/syn)?
2. What is your favorite filter?
Redbone
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Redbone
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I gotta agree. It is always best to look for facts. Opinions are not always based in fact. Read, study, and get references to materials that others may have. One should form their own opinions from those facts. Google is your friend.
Reference material for my oil & filter choice? If I could find it all, which I couldn't, it would take a person 6 months to go through it. I can't even find the name of the tribologist that helped me sift through the best info.
Anybody ever heard of an oil from Lubrication Engineers sometime just referred to as LE?
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AsiansXX
Reference material for my oil & filter choice? If I could find it all, which I couldn't, it would take a person 6 months to go through it. I can't even find the name of the tribologist that helped me sift through the best info.
Anybody ever heard of an oil from Lubrication Engineers sometime just referred to as LE?
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AsiansXX
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JJsKJ
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Amsoil ASL 5w30 True Full Synthetic and an Amsoil EaO34 oil filter every 10,000 miles or yearly or when I get the urge in both KJs.
Amsoil 10w30 True Full synthetic (loaded w/ the goodies that the 4.0L loves) and Amsoil EaO42 oil filter yearly in the TJ & XJ.
I put synthetic in my 1993 Cherokee 4.0...at 50000 miles and it started spotting my driveway with oil..Went back to regular adn it stopped...A good lesson learned. But it was a 1993 so maybe gasket materials are different now.
Put synthetic in my Libby at 120000+ no problem,!85000 now.
