SFA swap?

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Jeepkj

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how hard is it do complete a SFA swap this is my only means of transportation so how long would it take? is there a place where i can get everything i need like in one order?
 

tommudd

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Not a weekend swap for sure
do you have a place to work inside
lots of tools and really TALL jackstands
have the mecahnical knowledge to do all of the work and fabrication?
Deep pockets if you want to do it right and have it done quick?
I suggest you read through all of the info over on LOST JEEPS, whole great section over there
Rock Lizard just posted up prices of his kits that will be available a few weeks back . This will give you some idea

This is copied from what Marty posted over there may help you some ;

For an SFA kit price, here is what mine looks like. This is for those using stock width axles. Pricing for full width axle kit is pretty much the same, just with different coils/shocks/mounts in the front. My kit is 100% bolt on, only required 2" of pinch weld to be cut off in the front for the tracbar mount and removal of the rear LCA unibody mounts. If you retain the stock rear LCA mounts on the unibody, you can completely remove my entire kit and return to stock.


Godzilla SFA Parts List (Phase I Kit)
ROCK LIZARD KIT PARTS
SS3KJSFA Skink Super Sliders SFA Custom
GODZILLA Godzilla SFA Complete Mount Kit
w/ Belly Pan
CONTROL ARMS
RE4000 LONG ARM
RE4010 LONG ARM
RE4020 FRONT UCA PAIR
RE4030 REAR LOWER ARM PAIR
RE4040 REAR UPPER ARM PAIR
$4850.00 Plus Shipping

Godzilla SFA Parts List (Phase II Kit)

ROCK LIZARD KIT PARTS
SS3KJSFA Skink Super Sliders SFA Custom
RMBKJSFA Rock Monitor Phase IV SFA Custom (provisioned for Currie Anti-Rock Swaybar)
GODZILLA Godzilla SFA Complete Mount Kit
w/ Belly Pan
CONTROL ARMS
RE4000 LONG ARM
RE4010 LONG ARM
RE4020 FRONT UCA PAIR
RE4030 REAR LOWER ARM PAIR
RE4040 REAR UPPER ARM PAIR
STEERING PARTS/SWAYBAR
CE9900 Currie Anti-Rock Swaybar Kit
$5950.00 Plus Shipping

Godzilla SFA Parts List (Phase III Kit)
CONTROL ARMS
RE4000 LONG ARM
RE4010 LONG ARM
RE4020 FRONT UCA PAIR
RE4030 REAR LOWER ARM PAIR
RE4040 REAR UPPER ARM PAIR
COILS/SHOCKS/COILOVERS
OME864 REAR HD COIL PAIR
RXJ802 RE ZJ REAR SHOCK PAIR
980-02-005-A Fox Shocks 2.0" X 10.0" Coil-Over
w/ Remote Reservoir PAIR
1000.250.0300 Eibach ERS 10"long 2.5"I.D.Coil (X4)
ROCK LIZARD KIT PARTS
SS3KJSFA Skink Super Sliders SFA Custom
RMBKJSFA Rock Monitor Phase IV SFA Custom (provisioned for Currie Anti-Rock Swaybar)
TRACKBAR Custom Front/Rear Trackbars w/ Joints
GODZILLA Godzilla SFA Complete Mount Kit
w/ Belly Pan
DRIVETRAIN PARTS
HD SYE HD SYE 231
CVDSFRONT Front CV Driveshaft
CVDSREAR Rear CV Driveshaft
STEERING PARTS/SWAYBAR
CE9900 Currie Anti-Rock Swaybar Kit
BOX Ford Steering Box
LINKSTEER CUSTOM Tie Rod/Draglink with ends
OR
CE9701 Currie HD TIE ROD SYSTEM
$9100.00 Plus Shipping

CUSTOMER ADDED PARTS NOT INCLUDED IN KIT:
HP D30 FRONT AXLE
8.25 REAR AXLE CUSTOMIZED TO TJ MOUNTS OR TJ D44 REAR AXLE
CUSTOM BRAKELINES
ANY LABOR INVOLVED WITH INSTALL AND ANY CUSTOM WORK NEEDED FOR AXLES
WHEELS AND TIRES
(other accessories may be required depending on build, such as speedo fixes, etc.)
A JEEP LIBERTY TO PUT IT ALL ON.

_________________
WWW.ROCKLIZARDFABRICATIONS.COM
 

Jeepkj

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sounds like to much to get in to right now maybe when i get another one or something when its not my one set of wheels lol i just wnat to be able to go more places off road my brother used to go up a mountain in Beacon NY and its a nice ride but its tricky also beautiful on the top and im not even close to being able to do that see everyone down there has wranglers or cherokees or something like that and i want to be diffrent you dont see many libbys jacked up with a nice set of mudders on them and they look sick just rambaling now lol sorry any ideas on getting to the point where i can get up that mountain?
 

tommudd

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Man that was one LONG run on sentence
:freak3::freak3:
You'd be surprised what a properly set up lift, good set of tires, skids, and lockers can do for a KJ.
Oh and add in experience and common sense as well. :whip:
 

05kj6spd

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Still pricey but I was looking at the JBA steel axle. $1500 for the housing, stuff it with whatever gears you need and maybe a locker if you are so inclined. If you get the housing and have the gears and bearings all installed you probably then swap it in a weekend. For axles I was thinking of calling RCV performance for their custom chromo CV axles for $2000. I think it would be a good upgrade for $4500 to $5500 if you plan on keeping into a 4 inch or less lift. Also keeps you ground clearance in the front, don't let the solid axle wranglers or cherokees fool you. A wrangler with the same size tire as you has less ground clearance under the front end then you do.
 

J-Thompson

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Not really
The bell is more to the driver side rather than center
So it is only from the tube down
Also keep in mind that the TJ/YJ/XJ all have a steel housing
That is the last thing to go
Most times it is the u-joints on the front or the axle shaft
on the rear that fail
 

05kj6spd

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Not sure what it is you are trying say....but a Libby with IFS does have better clearance in the front then a solid axle cherokee (or other jeep) with the same size tires. Not only that but the clearance is mostly in the middle where I feel it is most needed. Most of the time you put your tire on the highest point in the trail and this would lift your control arms up and out of harms way and should easily clear anything in the middle of the trail. Plus your steering is mounted up higher and tucked in out of the way. Really not a bad setup if it wasn't for the the weak stock materials that they used to make the axles. A steel center from JBA would give you the same ring and pinion strength that all Dana 30 solid axle jeeps have, the RCV shafts would also replace the CV shafts that are prone to snapping when lifted and would also probably be stronger then stock Dana 30 shafts. I just think it would be a good way to beef up your front end if you don't have the funds and don't wish to do a solid axle swap.
 

Rock Lizard

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Just for fun:

JBA-Dana 30 SIFS
Dana 30 Steel IFS
What gears do you want ? : 4:56 Yukon Ring & Pinion gear set
Do you need a carrier assembly for you diff? : Yes, I want the Detroit Locker assembly
Do you want JBA to assemble your diff ? : Yes, I want JBA to assemble my diff ready use
$2,774.07

JBA-6inLiftKitCO
6 inch lift kit forJeep Liberty, KJ, 2002-2007
What rear shocks do you want for 6.0" lift kit : 2 Bilstein 5100 JBA-F4-BE5-6527-H5
Would you like 4 shocks with remote reservoirs? : No, I want Std Bilstein shocks No remote reservoir
Do you own a set of Als A-arms? : No, I need them in the kit!
Do you want Cut Down CV axles? : Yes, I need the std JBA cut down CV axles
Do you want skid plates? : Yes, I want a Front Skid & Engine/Trans skid plate
What brake system do you have? : 02-05 Std brake system, 3 hose per kit
What engine is in your KJ? : 3.7 L gas engine
Would you like Quick disconnects for your Liberty? : Yes, add Quick Disconnects to my order
$6,930.25

Order Total: $9,704.32 plus shipping


Godzilla SFA Parts List (Phase III Kit)
$9100.00 Plus Shipping
Pick up an HPD30 housing, put in 4:56 gears and Detroit Locker, might run you about $1000 at the most, you're at $10100, plus maybe an extra $2-300 to add UCA and trackbar mounts to the rear axle, but the SFA kit comes with sliders and a winch bumper, so that is over $1000 in value. Add an ARB bumper and sliders from somewhere to the JBA kit, that adds about $1300-1600 to the JBA 6" setup, then both kits need gears and locker for rear axle, plus wheels and tires. No welding necessary on the SFA kit, completely bolt on. So, all said and done, they both about even out in cost. Flex, strength and stability do not even out.

Nothing against the JBA kits, Marlin makes great stuff. Just wanted to compare apples to apples. Sure, the SFA kit isn't cheap if you skip the parts list and just look at the price, but to shed some light on what you get for your dollar, it is all top quality parts, just like you would have to do to the JBA 6" kit, and I didn't add all the top of the line parts to that shopping cart. Install time won't be much different between the two either.

Anyways, have fun. I did. :icon_twisted:
 

tommudd

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:happy175:
Marty I ran the numbers for someone else a few months back like that
of course I got the , " Well yes , but........" :whip::freak3::happy175::shrug:
empty housings are cheap:shrug:
 

Red_KJ_666

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I'm at 4800$ and change so far to do my build, and someone else is building it. add another 2000$ for the new tires/wheels (5 - 35x13.5-15 BFG Krawlers a guy ran for 1 month and decided he wanted Iroks) I got an excellent deal on and we are at 6800$ on the road. I got lucky being the first test dummy around and a lot of local shops gave me a great deal on parts. Definitely not cheap or easy but with out a doubt worth it. still waiting on the arrival of all the necessary parts to begin the build.
 

Chino78

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Nothing against the JBA kits, Marlin makes great stuff. Just wanted to compare apples to apples. Sure, the SFA kit isn't cheap if you skip the parts list and just look at the price, but to shed some light on what you get for your dollar, it is all top quality parts, just like you would have to do to the JBA 6" kit, and I didn't add all the top of the line parts to that shopping cart. Install time won't be much different between the two either.

Anyways, have fun. I did. :icon_twisted:

Marty, is there any way to do an SFA with only 6" of lift?? I would prefer SFA over JBA IFS, but if I must have 10-12" of lift there is no way I can do a SFA... :shrug:
 

tommudd

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You have to do more than 6 inches more in the 8-9 inches ( or more) just to clear everything and have room for suspension travel.
 

Rock Lizard

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Marty, is there any way to do an SFA with only 6" of lift?? I would prefer SFA over JBA IFS, but if I must have 10-12" of lift there is no way I can do a SFA... :shrug:

Troy is running full widths and 35's (could easily fit 37's with current setup) and we have him at 8" lift over stock. We tried to lower it to 6", but the axle was way too close to the oil pan, so wasn't going to work with less than 8". The coilover setup with stock width axles will be close to 10" but likely less. I am looking to find a better coilover setup to bring it down, but in the mean time I would recommend going full widths anyways. Kit price is the same, but the axles and speedo correction will run you some extra coin.

Believe me, I am all about low center of gravity, and I was overly confident when I built the first SFA knowing for sure I could do it at 5-6" lift. If I can't do it, then good luck finding someone who can.
 

Chino78

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Thanks Marty, which part of the axle would be close to the oil pan? The upper control arm brackets over the diff?? I remember Troy said a long time ago about working with some old ford radius arms to avoid upper control arms... Do you think it would work??

How much does the phase III kit weigth?? Do you plan to make international shipments???

Thanks
 

Red_KJ_666

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If you want to save money on a Arms and Joints buy a Rough Country long arm upgrade kit for a TJ part#663U I think. It can easily be modded to work and is a Radius arm setup. I'm hoping mine checks in around 8-9" over stock. We tossed the Idea of cutting the hood and building a DOM brace/Coil mount over the top of the engine compartment. It was scrapped because of legality issues in my area.
 

jeepin06

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Rock Lizard...

Your SFA Kit is something I plan on buying
(when my KJ is paid for) :disgust:
 

Rock Lizard

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Thanks Marty, which part of the axle would be close to the oil pan? The upper control arm brackets over the diff?? I remember Troy said a long time ago about working with some old ford radius arms to avoid upper control arms... Do you think it would work??

How much does the phase III kit weigth?? Do you plan to make international shipments???

Thanks

I think it would work better than most would think. I personally have a 1998 jeep cherokee XJ. In my research of doing a full width conversion on it within a budget once upon a long time ago before I got into working on KJ's, the ford axle setup (HP44/9") Ted (USAFCOP) is going to be running under his SFA is almost a direct bolt in for the XJ using the stock ford radius arms. The radius arms have shock mounts and coil buckets built into them already, you just have to unbolt the coil buckets and rotate them 180* to get the offset wider, then the stock upper coil and shock mounts on the XJ line up almost perfectly. I compare the XJ, because the orientation/spacing of the upper coil and shock mounts are the same as a TJ. So, in theory, yes the stock ford radius arm setup would work with my kit, although the radius arm mounts as the unibody would need a slight alteration, or better yet, change the radius arms to a johnny joint (pretty easy to do, then the length will be adjustable). Only thing I can think of that may not work is the lower mounts may be too narrow for the coils/shocks to work, as the KJ unibody is slightly wider than the XJ/TJ, so even flipping the buckets may not be wide enough. I'll look into it and see what the width is.
I don't remember what it was that was close to hitting when we lowered it to 6". I'll have to check with Troy.
 

Chino78

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I don't remember what it was that was close to hitting when we lowered it to 6". I'll have to check with Troy.

I think it could be the upper control arm mount over the differential, but I don't know... :shrug:

May be we could use some James Duff radius arms and wedges:

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