so, i noticed a while ago, that the rear suspension has only about (calibrated eyeball measurement) 1" of movement before the bump stop starts getting a workout. and i do feel it hitting way more than i would like. i am pretty sure my kj has the original factory suspension, with 170,000 miles on it. i fully expect the front to be sagged as well. so, of course i would like more suspension travel. who wouldn't (at least until you hit 12" of travel). but i do NOT want any of the troubles that more travel / ride height brings. such as having to change pinion angles, and all the wonderful labor intensive things that i have so much trouble with. I'm 64, have a seriously degenerated spine, pinched nerves, bad hips, and a knee that needs to be overhauled. and, being on a fixed income, i have to do almost all work myself. i know i will need all 3 upper control arms to be replaced. so i am thinking that when warm weather gets here, changing springs and control arms at the same time would be a good idea. i really do not want to get very much stiffer on spring rates, because that would be ******* my back. i have not really looked at the shocks yet, but i suspect they are original as well. i will be staying with stock size (or very close to stock) tires. i think that if there is not a lot of extra work required, a 2" lift should be adequate for my needs. do i need longer shocks going to a 2" lift? i live in Michigan, so rock climbing is not something that i have seen much of. mostly sand, mud, and swamps. don't get me wrong, we do have some decent hills. but if your from out west, these will be nothing but speed bumps compared to the Rockies. i guess what i am looking for is recommendations on components, and of course i am on a tight budget (s.s.), Thanks!
springing sprung springs
- Thread starter XWrench3
- Start date
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Well first thing measure left front
Middle of the wheel ( hub area ) to bottom of the flare
Bet you are an inch to inch and a half lower than stock
Have had them roll into my garage at 2 inches lower than stock with less than 80,000 miles on them
SO, most use the 927 front springs which give you 2.5 inches of lift
But if you want soft ( brand new my 04s springs were too weak and rode like total crap IMO )
But first yes you need all 4 new shocks and springs
OK so stock springs are rated at 310 lb in front
OME 925 are rated at 350 but only give you about an inch of lift
OME 926 are rated at 375 and give 1.75-2 inches
OME 927s are rated at 400 and give 2.5
Since you still want soft due to back complications I would do 926 from, with 947 rear springs
if you wanted above 2 inches of lift could add some conduit nuts to front for 1/4-3/8 inch more lift
something for you to start thinking about , and making a list of questions etc
Hopefully that helps some
By mentioning 3 UCAs I assume you are talking about the 2 front UCAs and the rear tri link , right ??
after suspension work I would step up to 245-70-16 tires and be good
Middle of the wheel ( hub area ) to bottom of the flare
Bet you are an inch to inch and a half lower than stock
Have had them roll into my garage at 2 inches lower than stock with less than 80,000 miles on them
SO, most use the 927 front springs which give you 2.5 inches of lift
But if you want soft ( brand new my 04s springs were too weak and rode like total crap IMO )
But first yes you need all 4 new shocks and springs
OK so stock springs are rated at 310 lb in front
OME 925 are rated at 350 but only give you about an inch of lift
OME 926 are rated at 375 and give 1.75-2 inches
OME 927s are rated at 400 and give 2.5
Since you still want soft due to back complications I would do 926 from, with 947 rear springs
if you wanted above 2 inches of lift could add some conduit nuts to front for 1/4-3/8 inch more lift
something for you to start thinking about , and making a list of questions etc
Hopefully that helps some
By mentioning 3 UCAs I assume you are talking about the 2 front UCAs and the rear tri link , right ??
after suspension work I would step up to 245-70-16 tires and be good
duderz7
Full Access Member
If you're wanting 2 inches from where you are now it may be the 925's you want up front, but we'll need to know that measurement Tom spoke of first.
LOL from where he is now I'll bet 2 inches would just get him back to stock with that many miles on it
duderz7
Full Access Member
Could be, but I know you wouldn't suggest stock springs.
No never would I since they are so weak
PLUS
he stated "a 2 inch lift would be adequate for my needs "
duderz7
Full Access Member
Right, I just wondered if he was meaning 2 inches from where he is, I suppose he will have to let us know.
Also, you can go 2-2.5 inches of new stock height and not have any of the issues that you mentioned above on these KJs
As far as spring rates and your back, stock worn out, stacked coils , worn out shocks, terrible suspension will give you a worse ride than any of the mentioned OME springs
When I bought my 04 brand new I couldn't stand the ride and my back is still in half way good shape for a ( almost ) 67 year old
As far as spring rates and your back, stock worn out, stacked coils , worn out shocks, terrible suspension will give you a worse ride than any of the mentioned OME springs
When I bought my 04 brand new I couldn't stand the ride and my back is still in half way good shape for a ( almost ) 67 year old
sorry its been so long for a reply. i measured the front center of the hub, to the lower edge of the fender flare, and its at 17.5". the rear measures just short of 18". so besides sacked out, how far sacked out is the old girl? i know i can feel the rear hit the bump stop way more often than it should (on pavement). the rear shocks look new (no rust), which likely happened at the same time both lower control arms were replaced (they still have the Mopar sticker on them). but the front shocks look their age.
You are 1.5 inches below new stock height
Bet it rides like a road wagon, bouncing off the bumpstops all the way
rear shocks may look new but with it bounching like that they are gone
so shocks has always been something that i have just guessed at. and usually selected wrong. i have made the mistake of buying "stock dampening" shocks before. and IMO, that means they do almost nothing. and i have bought heavy duty springs that ride like a buckboard wagon until they got 20k on them to loosen them up. decades ago, (i don't remember who) made the perfect shock. ot had a "bypass area in the center of the shock that gave it a very smooth ride where the suspension sat at normal ride height = and minus 1.5" either way. then they got progressively firmer the further the suspension traveled. i remember the advertising used a diagram where it showed an hourglass ti illustrate how it worked (though i doubt that was the actual design of the shocks. my dad had a set of them put on his Ford LTD, and loved them. something like that would be perfect, at least i think so. as far as springs go, i would love to get some recommendations. just remember 2 things, 1) my back is going from bad to worse (surgeons actually do NOT want to operate on me! and 2) I'm on a TIGHT (s.s. disability) fixed income. so im on a pretty tight budget.
ANYTHING is going to be better riding than what you have now for sure
If no lift I would go with a full OME kit with 925 front and 947 rear springs, that would include the OME shocks on all 4 corners
It would ride way better than it ever did brand new
It will give you about an inch over new stock height ( or 2.5 inches of lift from where you are sagged down to now )
you can go cheaper but will be right back where you are now really with a bad ride, poor handling etc
The OME springs and shocks are very well made , ride is very very good
If no lift I would go with a full OME kit with 925 front and 947 rear springs, that would include the OME shocks on all 4 corners
It would ride way better than it ever did brand new
It will give you about an inch over new stock height ( or 2.5 inches of lift from where you are sagged down to now )
you can go cheaper but will be right back where you are now really with a bad ride, poor handling etc
The OME springs and shocks are very well made , ride is very very good
Follow up, if you bought most any type of springs back in the 70s-80s they just made them to give height and did not care about how they rode, this is why they rode like a buckboard
Springs like OME are designed for the vehicle they are going on, giving not only a bit more height ( depending on which springs you go with ) and more importantly overall ride and handling way better than stock
Then the shocks are designed to compliment the springs
Only two kinds of shocks I would ever run or even consider advising someone to get and those are either OME or Bilstein
I'm just a bit of a snob when it comes to suspensions having ripped out many springs and shocks out of brand new vehicles that I have bought and upgraded due to the cheap springs and shocks most come with.
Only new vehicle I did not upgrade was a 1998 Ford NASCAR Edition , it was lowered with Roush aftermarket springs and shocks and Roush supplied a few other items
The OME I suggested above are rated at 350 lb front, just what they should of been from the factory, ( stock are 310 )
Springs like OME are designed for the vehicle they are going on, giving not only a bit more height ( depending on which springs you go with ) and more importantly overall ride and handling way better than stock
Then the shocks are designed to compliment the springs
Only two kinds of shocks I would ever run or even consider advising someone to get and those are either OME or Bilstein
I'm just a bit of a snob when it comes to suspensions having ripped out many springs and shocks out of brand new vehicles that I have bought and upgraded due to the cheap springs and shocks most come with.
Only new vehicle I did not upgrade was a 1998 Ford NASCAR Edition , it was lowered with Roush aftermarket springs and shocks and Roush supplied a few other items
The OME I suggested above are rated at 350 lb front, just what they should of been from the factory, ( stock are 310 )
Tom, if you want to keep the stock height, can you use OME 2926 coil spring in the front? Every website I have visited shows that the 2925 coil springs are unavailable. While I can't confirm this, my hypothesis is that they aren't making the 2925 springs anymore. If the OME 2926 doesn't work, is there a different brand you would recommend?
The 926s will give you about an inch or so over new stock height
hardly noticeable beside one with "brand new" stock suspension
hardly noticeable beside one with "brand new" stock suspension
Yes that will work
stock shocks should work for you all around, rears may be a bit short if going off camber a lot depends on where all you'll take it
I'm running stock length with 947s on the 05 but it never sees anything but pavement or rear lawn LOL
Hmmmm, it mainly stays on pavement, but I do take it off-roading some. I don't do any bouldering, but I will take it down some pretty rough forest roads. Should I upgrade to longer shocks like the OME 132-L or the 60069s?
The 132Ls are for 3 inch lifts and higher
The 6069s are basically stock, just a bit longer but should work well for you
I hate to open this thread back up, but I ordered OME 2926 front springs, 6069 shocks for the rear, Bilstein front shocks, and OME 2947 rear springs. Everything has come in except for the rear springs, and I cannot get any estimate from ARB or the part dealer about when they will be available. I'm sick of storing these car parts in my tiny apartment, and its been 3 months already since I placed the orders. Long story short, can I use the Iron Man 1.5 inch rear springs with the 6069s shocks and the rest of the parts listed above? I know the Iron Man springs aren't as high quality as the Old Man Emu springs, but I want to get this project done already. Can you provide any insight Tommudd?
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