Starting A Thread About...Starters

[profdlp]

Went out yesterday and drove with no problems. When I went to go home the Jeep wouldn't start. Battery is fine, just no crank at all.

Had it towed to a mechanic. They are closed until Monday. Got antsy about some tools and stuff in the back so I had my wife drive me down there to clean it out. (The Jeep is just sitting there in full view of the road and I've already endured one attempted theft some years ago.) On a whim, I tried it again and this time it started right up. I decided that if I left it there anyway and it DID get broken into I would be mad at myself for the rest of my life (trust me - I really would) so I drove it home.

I do not trust it at all at this point and feel like it will only put on a repeat performance, probably at the most inopportune time possible.

Watched some videos on replacing the starter and it looks like a really tricky job. I'm not sure if I'm into removing a drive shaft.

Is replacing the starter really as big a PITA as it looks like?

Also, what are recommended brands? I see a Mopar for around $225. Others are as cheap as $60. The current starter was installed as a warranty repair about six years ago and I am pretty sure they used the cheapest possible part they could find. I have no problem paying extra for a really good one, but only if it is worth doing so.

Also: How would a mechanic react if I just ordered one I like and took it with me? (Assuming I cannot summon the courage to try and do it myself.) I know repair places make extra dough on parts markup.

 

[LibertyTC]

I think most follow the 1A auto video for replacement.
I also wonder why it just suddenly starts again, dead spot on starter or?
Here is the 2007 Rock Auto starter motor listings...
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,2007,liberty,3.7l+v6,1433762,electrical,starter+motor,4152
Chances are the shop will source a 2007 starter motor for you, if you want the job completed on Monday.

 

[Luke]

Can’t beat my boy Len

Sorry to hear about you trials brother, I would have done the same thing!
I have faith you could pull it off but on the other hand sometimes it less stressful to farm it out.
If they won’t install your part (they won’t warranty it of course) then they loose your business… besides it could work in their favour if your part is faulty, more labour for them. Just tell them you already have it but don’t have the time to install it yourself *shrugs*

 

[jeepop]

Its not that hard. Removing the prop shaft is not that bad. Jack up one front tire so that you can rotate it, and then use your 4WD selector to freeze the alxe for when you need to break or tighten the bolt.

There is a sticky on it once you click KJ General Discussion:

How To Starter Replacement

I've begun to notice that lately my Libby doesn't easily start. The starter may be failing. Reading through the service manuals it appears that I have to partially dismantle the exhaust manifold, is this true?

www.jeepkj.com

 

[Johnny O]

sounds like it is one of two things:
bad bendix in the starter (the part that thows out the drive gear to engage rhe flywheel OR a bad spot on the flywheel itself.

Like others, I'd just follow the 1A Auto videos.

Any loud grinding or buzzing when trying to start?

As for parts sourcing, brand doesn't matter these days. Anyone arguing otherwise owns stock in a parts company. All made in the same factory in China. I have been using 1A Auto parts with great success on Bert and various Nissans and Subarus with zero complaints.

Also it could just be a fluke. Have you busted your knuckles and given blood to the Machine Gods lately?

 

[profdlp]

...Also it could just be a fluke. Have you busted your knuckles and given blood to the Machine Gods lately?

No, I somehow got through all my gear oil adventures without shedding a drop. I was feeling kind of smug about that, so maybe this is one of those "Pride goeth before a fall" things. If so, lesson learned...

I had not thought about it, but I bet you are right on the parts sourcing thing.

 

[Deb'nKJ]

Dunno about the starter but do have some knowledge of removing/replacing the drive shaft. It's a typical KJ "let's make it as needlessly complicated & difficult as possible" design.
I've watched a couple of 1A vids, thought they were a joke, so reminiscent of those public information films we used to have to sit through at school. However, somewhere in my replacing front diff saga/tale of woe, is some very helpful advice on how to actually persuade the Jeep to let go of the shaft.
Would I do it again? Doubtful, a KJ's just not worth all that grief, especially the point at which it seems that you need to remove the starter first! On the other hand, there's no way I'd be prepared to spend as much on it as it would cost to have the job done.
Others, I know have a much higher opinion of the model than I but as it runs a close 2nd to my WJ in always being one major job away from scrap, that's not saying much.
Whichever way you jump, good luck - & I'll be following the thread with interest.

 

[profdlp]

The garage could not get it to "not" start. They were nice enough to waive the 30 minutes labor. They did say it was time for new brakes so I will be moving on to that. I also need a new muffler. (I was aware of both of those going in, so no big shock.)

 

[jeepop]

My starter was intermittent like that for a couple of years. Early on I could get it to start by reaching in and jiggling the starter wires. I assumed it was the connections. Cleaned them up and it did not change, still occasionally did not start. After a couple of years like this it finally became the norm to not start vs the exception.

I believe a new starter is in your future, its just a matter of when.

I have loved the medium level power stops on my Liberty from RockAuto.

 

[Johnny O]

I wouldn't sweat it. Might be worth cleaning connections and getting handy with the dielectric grease. Then again I carry a spare starter in my desert box o' emergency solutions.

I swear by the Powerstop brand for brakes...and they are far cheaper from Scamazon then they are from Crock ( o' $#*%!) auto.

 

[profdlp]

Is it worth paying an extra $115 (total; all four brakes) for the coated ones?

Amazon Link

 

[Johnny O]

Is it worth paying an extra $115 (total; all four brakes) for the coated ones?

Amazon Link

Coated is a gimmick just like drilled rotors which are a scam. Unless you're driving a race car or towing a big f'n trailer regularly in which case coated is still a gimmick and drilled is probably a good idea.

 

[Deb'nKJ]

If you've got gert big rotors clearly visible thru' spoky wheels, then maybe - but only for the aesthetics.

 

[mercdudecbr600]

I just did this job a few months back. Not 'fun' but not that bad. I had to undo/loosen the drivers side cat (mines a 02 with a exhaust v clamp) and undo the front propshaft and then play with the angle of the starter to get it out. Took maybe 4 hours laying on the floor of the garage by myself. I went with a Napa lifetime starter.

 

[mercdudecbr600]

Coated is a gimmick just like drilled rotors which are a scam. Unless you're driving a race car or towing a big f'n trailer regularly in which case coated is still a gimmick and drilled is probably a good idea.

Not exactly. At the wear surface, sure it makes no sense. But there are other parts to a rotor, specifically the veining on the inside. If you don't want to be fighting rust in those veins or on the edges of the rotor, then coating makes at least some sense.

 

[Dave_too]

Coated is a gimmick just like drilled rotors which are a scam. Unless you're driving a race car or towing a big f'n trailer regularly in which case coated is still a gimmick and drilled is probably a good idea.

Drilled rotors can be susceptible to little cracks. If you're looking to max out cooling, dimpled might be preferred.

 

[Johnny O]

Drilled rotors can be susceptible to little cracks. If you're looking to max out cooling, dimpled might be preferred.

Yep, they are just a gimmick. Wears out pads faster too. If your brakes are overheating, you are driving wrong.