Suspension tool kit

[osufans]

Finally warmed up enough to spend some time in the garage today. Pulled a front wheel off and crawled around in the wheel well. Then did the same in the rear.

Didn't see a reason to pop the ball joints, seems just the strut assembly needs to be removed at the clevis. Rear seemed pretty straight forward

I just have to decide if I wanna go with the OME/Bilstein (~$700) or do a wesway lift using CRD coils (~$525, and save money for skids).

I'm trying to remember, but I think the reason I decided to pop the lower BJ was because I couldn't get the clevis back in the lower control arm. I couldn't pry the LCA down far enough to line up the clevis with the bolt holes due to the CV shaft. It was the first and only time I've ever done a lift on the Jeep, so maybe there's another way to get it done.

 

[Uncle Krusty]

Like I said, it took some wiggling to get it back in. I almost popped the UBJ to do it.

As far as strut length, even the new Racho's I used were the same lenght as the stock ones (I'm not aware of anyone making Liberty struts that are 2" over stock - or even a cross-over from another vehicle). With the OME springs the strut assembly still only extends to stock length. The lift comes from the stiffer spring not compressing as far under normal vehicle weight. Uncompressed length when installing the new ones is the same length as when taking the old ones out. Now if your adding some type of OTT spacer/plate, or the longer clevis out of an '08 or later, all bets are off.

I'm hoping to add a "Boiler" top plate soon to level it, and imagine I may have to consider popping the ball joint to do it. Hopefully, someday soon I'll be popping the UBJ for some new Jeep'n-By-Al Uper control arms.

 

[tommudd]

Thats what the rachet straps are for to make it easier to pull the springs in with out R&R ing the LBJ much easier and can do it yourself without breaking a sweat
stock springs/shocks are the same length basically but they become a little harder to get back in since the spring rate is more, so its harder to just push them in

 

[huntbuggy]

Added a full front end service kit (press and cups/accessories for balljoints, bushings, tie rod ends etc...) to the toolkit today... checked the mail and there she was.

Along with these...

Just testing fit and will rig up a jig for the bench vise next week.

Am going to attempt to assemble fronts without taking out an eye hopefully.

:Stupid Me:

 

[blue_kjR417]

This was the list I used in my howto for the WesWay Lift

Suggested Tools to Install Front Strut Shims and Rear Coil Spring Isolators:
Floor Jack
Scissor Jack
Small Hydraulic Jack
Large Hydraulic Jack
2 Jack Stands
1 6" 2"x4" Blocks
2 8" 2"x4" Blocks
Tire Iron or Impact Wrench with 3/4" Socket
10mm Socket - 1/4" Drive
13mm Socket - 3/8" Drive
18mm Socket - 3/8" Drive
19mm Socket - 3/8" Drive
13/16" Socket - 1/2" Drive
5/16" Socket - 1/4" or Nut Driver
12" 3/8" Extension
1/2" to 3/8" Reducer
Small 1/4" Drive Ratchet
Large 1/2" Drive Ratchet
5/8" Combination Wrench
Medium Standard Screw Driver
Magnetic Trays or some form of a container
Universal Hammer
Locking Lug Nut Adapter (If required)

This list won't help you much with upgrading bumpstops but should get your front coils and struts out along with the rear coils...

Not to be a smart a** but the first lift on a KJ I did I just looked underneath and saw what sizes I needed. If you have a good set of sockets etc then you should have everything needed, except for maybe rachet straps and if you are doing a normal lift you don't need them
right angle drill for the rear bumpstops helps as well
Many great writeups have been done, check LOST as well

Haha, I know what you mean tom but sometimes we overthink things a little when getting excited about lifting lol!