The Dreaded P0301 / Code 1153

[Sogze]

code 1153 is from a squirrel that got under the hood and chewed through the wires on my daughters 2002 KJ Sport 2wd 3.7l. 150,000 miles. I admit this was an easy fix but I drug my feet on it. It has been using about a quart of oil a month but we've been staying on top of that. The real issue is the P0301 recently due to a coolant leak that went undetected till she told me she was having issues with it cranking and heard a warning dinging sound. She left it overnight at a friend’s house b/c she could not start it. Drove it home the next day maybe 10 min away and white smoke came out from under the hood on the driver’s side near the radiator. Engine light was already on b/c of the AIT sensor but she did notice it blinking. It did not start smoking till she had it in the driveway and we shut her down as soon as it did. I changed the spark plug on cylinder 1 and switched the coil packs. I tested to see if the fuel injector was firing on cylinder 1 - it is. Still throws a code P0301. I 've tried to confirm that its a head casket but no bubbles in the coolant, no milky residue on the oil cap. Oil looks dirty but its dark no milky or chocolate look. No sludge on radiator cap. I'am getting a good amount of condensation out of the muffler and it is speckled with black residue. It will start and you can drive it but it will stall when you stop. It does idle a little rough but nothing extreme. I don't have the tools to do a compression test so I've called several mechanics. One guy says he will come out and verify head gasket replacement. If he confirms it he wants to send off all 6 cylinders to Dover cylinder head repair. He estimates labor and parts to be around $800. Another mechanic says try the sealer but I need this car running for my daughter this summer and hopefully one more year of HS. Not crazy about the sealers b/c of the talk about screwing up an engine but Im open to it if it will buy another year of vehicle use. Any serious suggestions would be helpful. I can do $800 but trying not to go over 4 figures.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

First, (welcome)

Second, these engines hate overheating. The aluminum heads and cast iron block tend to pull away from each other at high temps - so a head gasket issue would be a likely diagnosis.

That said, it's probably a good idea to spend the $800 on both heads since for whatever reason cylinder #2 (front cylinder on the passenger/right side) tends to eat valve seats on early 3.7 engines. If you have an issue on #1 it's likely you'll shortly have an issue on the other cylinder head too. Taking care of both of them now may be good insurance against engine replacement later.

Pulling the heads on these engines is not a difficult job. Get a new set of head bolts, new gaskets and a copy of the factory service manual (available lots of places online) for the section on the timing chains, and make your daughter help a little bit. Can be a good lesson for her in preventative maintenance (not that she necessarily caused the current problem but a good lesson nonetheless.)

Keep us posted :waytogo:

Bob

 

[Sogze]

Thank You

I appreciate your reply. It really helps to have someone confirm things and provide input.

 

[Sogze]

Well I tried Bar's Leaks Block Seal Head Gasket Fix

The P0301 may have been caused by the squirrel that chewed through the IAT sensor wire. This led to the leaner burn in cylinder 1 and my not fixing the sensor to begin with. A 2002 V6 3.7l with 157,000 miles and a $800 job for damaged cylinders just did not add up dollars and cents wise so I opted for the Sealer. It did seal the leak that much is sure but it still ideals rough an will stall out occasionally when you stop. At first the engine light stopped blinking and I thought everything might be ok but after driving it around maybe 4 or 5 miles the engine light started blinking again so I parked her and shut her down. On closer inspection I found that Mr squirrel had been busy chewing on more wires. I attached a pic if anyone wands to take a guess on what the rodent chewed through. It's on the drivers side of the engine close to the battery. see pic.

 

[J33Pfan]

Sealants can clog up the radiator & heater core. Do not do this! Oops too late!

You think its the head gasket but you didnt prove it yet right?

you can borrow these compression test tools at your parts store usually for free.

if you think the cylinder has a bad head gasket, take plug out and with a flashlight look at the top of the piston to see if its extremely clean (like it was steam cleaned).

You might have a cracked head!

why both heads? Maybe just have someone remove 1 head and have the head checked for cracks. then replace the 1 gasket.

 

[J33Pfan]

The P0301 may have been caused by the squirrel that chewed through the IAT sensor wire. This led to the leaner burn in cylinder 1 and my not fixing the sensor to begin with. A 2002 V6 3.7l with 157,000 miles and a $800 job for damaged cylinders just did not add up dollars and cents wise so I opted for the Sealer. It did seal the leak that much is sure but it still ideals rough an will stall out occasionally when you stop. At first the engine light stopped blinking and I thought everything might be ok but after driving it around maybe 4 or 5 miles the engine light started blinking again so I parked her and shut her down. On closer inspection I found that Mr squirrel had been busy chewing on more wires. I attached a pic if anyone wands to take a guess on what the rodent chewed through. It's on the drivers side of the engine close to the battery. see pic.

This car running good sells for $3000 - $4000 near NYC plus the car lots make extra money off the car loan!

Get it fixed but you have to make sure you know exactly what the problem is.

Im not convinced you correctly fixed the squirrel damaged!

also you have to trap & move the squirrel since he likes to chew your car up.

 

[ltd02]

That squirrel would be stew by now if it were chewing on my KJ. That looks to be the wires going to the vacuum purge solenoid. Could cause your rough running but not sure you'd get a flashing CEL. Maybe others know better.

I'm not a big fan, but sealers aren't as bad as most people think they are. What causes problems is repeated use or if you don't follow the doses in the directions. You can't go with the idea that "if some is good more is better".

 

[Billwill]

Download the 2002 KJ Service Manual here....Includes wiring diagrams.

Use these diagrams to trace any wiring problems or take them to an Auto Electrician to do the work.

Index of /manuals/Jeep/KJ

 

[Sogze]

Head Gasket Kit: Any recommendations?

I really appreciate the input guys. The purge valve was right on the money. Another issue has developed. Rocker arm has fallen so Im going ahead with opening her up. If I need to I'll have the heads rebuilt by dover. What are some of the more reliable head gasket kits?

Also learned that I'm not an electrician. Never shorten a wire on a vehicle. Should of known when you buy them they are a certain length for a reason. Hopefully all I'll have to so is replace a fuse then rewire using the lengths the sensor came with. Had the purge valve fixed and the engine was running well till I shortened the wires. :signs75:

 

[ltd02]

I used Felpro MLS permatorque when I did mine.

If you are sure the rocker just fell then maybe just replace the lash adjusters and all may be good. Pulling the heads may be overkill unless you dropped a valve seat.

 

[JeepinJarhead03]

if it flipped a rocker arm, unless the rocker arms damaged you can get the lash adjusters at autozone for about 10 bucks, replace the lash adjuster and pop the rocker arm back in with a flat head screw driver. somewhat common problem with the 4.7/3.7s. you can get (or make) rocker keepers as well that are basically clips to keep the rockers from getting squirted out

can all be done without removing the cam, just requires pulling the valve cover, if you're unsure of the process just youtube 4.7 fallen rocker arm diy. it's the same situation/problem/resolution for the 3.7

before i spent X amount of money on rebuilding heads etc, i'd put the rocker back on and check the compression on that cyl. the rocker arms have been known to get thrown out due to the lash adjuster being weak without the valve seat causing the problem. though, a valve seat dropping can cause it as well