Time for 4.10 gears!

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JeepStar

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Does Truetrac or any of the other parts manufacturers recommend changing out the diff fluid after the first 500 miles or are you just being extra cautious with your 4:10 swap???
 

lfhoward

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Changing the fluid after 500 miles is standard procedure after breaking in ring & pinion gears. I have not heard this 500 mile diff oil change is necessary if all you do is install a truetrac or locker.
 

JeepJeepster

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Thanks for sharing all of this JeepJeepster I enjoyed reading through your process. How are the gears treating you today? I'm planning to lift my Liberty 2.5" and run 245/75/16s -- and from what I've gathered on this site it wouldn't be entirely necessary to swap the gears out to 4.10, but I really do not want to lose any power. I live in hilly terrain and I love the pick-up I currently have with the stock height and tires.

Also -- any idea how much a shop might charge for this labor? It'd be a fun project but I don't know how feasible it'd be for me to do, with limited tools, experience, and time.

All seems well. Wish I could've done it 15 years ago, but I didn't really have the tools or the know how.

Does Truetrac or any of the other parts manufacturers recommend changing out the diff fluid after the first 500 miles or are you just being extra cautious with your 4:10 swap???

Its recommended for the new gears, not the TT.

FYI, if anyone is wanting some front 4.10 gears, there is a set on ebay. Offer them $300 and I bet they will take it. I already have an extra set under the bed, so Im good.

 
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duderz7

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Getting ready to do this myself, the fsm talks about a diff case spreader. I didn't see this in your procedures. Is it unnecessary?
 

Offroad Bob

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I'm being as easy on them as I can and I'm only taking short trips. The first trip on the rear gears I drove 20 miles and Im wondering if I should've only done <10miles. The rear diff was ~160F which is pretty hot I think, it was just 130F after driving ~20 miles today. I'll change the oil at 500 miles and go from there.

Yeah I like the camper. Its comfortable yet it still feels like youre camping. After the rona stuff goes away and city folk quit flocking to the camp grounds, I plan on towing the camper to the Smokies with the KJ to do some camping.
Hey there Jeepmaster ! That was quite a project you did there. Congratulations to you for sure. That was way above my pay grade ! My next project , hopefully, will not be that hard. I have an 02 Sport V6 Auto 4WD. Ome/Bilstein front and rear. Rocky Front UCA's ( I know), Both Iron Rock rear adjustable lower control arms and upper, adjustable boomerang looking control arm all riding on stock alloy 5 spoke wheels with 245/70/16 Duratracs. Reason I want to do this is 1) my rear end has a lot of slop in it and I think it is going to grenade before long.. very noticeable specially when shifting out of park and into gear. I let the rear end run low on fluid last summer and it developed a whine and some play. I drove it for a week or two before I added more dope which was stupid on my part. I had a new pinion seal put in not long after it I had discovered it. I have 205,000 miles on it. The whine has stayed the same but the play has increased. My #2 reason for the swapout is I would love to have disc brakes on the rear ! ! So I want to get a complete, working rear end with disc brakes from the LKQ yard here in town. They have every year of Libertys there. I believe from 02-05 they are pretty much identical. Mr Mudd mentioned once if a different post about the speedometer pickup. On my rearend, the sensor is mounted on top of the rear end housing. I don't have ABS on the front or rear as there are no sensors or wires running from any hub, front or rear.. It says I have ABS , but if so, it doesn't work. Thats fine with me as I like to lock be able to lock up the tires if needed. I want to swap out my drum braked rearend. Mr Mudd mentioned that most Libertys with automatics with the V6 all ran the same gear ratio (I forget it as I'll have to go back and look it up) but he also mentioned possible brake fluid pressure differences with discs vs drums. Another concern would be getting the brake lines mated up. Have you ever done this ? Or if anybody else has, I would geatly appreciate some feed back, advise, tips, etc.
Thank you for reading this.
Bob
 

tommudd

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Hey there Jeepmaster ! That was quite a project you did there. Congratulations to you for sure. That was way above my pay grade ! My next project , hopefully, will not be that hard. I have an 02 Sport V6 Auto 4WD. Ome/Bilstein front and rear. Rocky Front UCA's ( I know), Both Iron Rock rear adjustable lower control arms and upper, adjustable boomerang looking control arm all riding on stock alloy 5 spoke wheels with 245/70/16 Duratracs. Reason I want to do this is 1) my rear end has a lot of slop in it and I think it is going to grenade before long.. very noticeable specially when shifting out of park and into gear. I let the rear end run low on fluid last summer and it developed a whine and some play. I drove it for a week or two before I added more dope which was stupid on my part. I had a new pinion seal put in not long after it I had discovered it. I have 205,000 miles on it. The whine has stayed the same but the play has increased. My #2 reason for the swapout is I would love to have disc brakes on the rear ! ! So I want to get a complete, working rear end with disc brakes from the LKQ yard here in town. They have every year of Libertys there. I believe from 02-05 they are pretty much identical. Mr Mudd mentioned once if a different post about the speedometer pickup. On my rearend, the sensor is mounted on top of the rear end housing. I don't have ABS on the front or rear as there are no sensors or wires running from any hub, front or rear.. It says I have ABS , but if so, it doesn't work. Thats fine with me as I like to lock be able to lock up the tires if needed. I want to swap out my drum braked rearend. Mr Mudd mentioned that most Libertys with automatics with the V6 all ran the same gear ratio (I forget it as I'll have to go back and look it up) but he also mentioned possible brake fluid pressure differences with discs vs drums. Another concern would be getting the brake lines mated up. Have you ever done this ? Or if anybody else has, I would geatly appreciate some feed back, advise, tips, etc.
Thank you for reading this.
Bob
Depends also if yours is a very early 02 or later
Very early 02s came with a 35 rear diff , where driveshaft bolts to pinion mount is different , but easy to change
Never go into brakelines since it was a 4.10 diff going into the 02 so never messed with them , customer wanted to stay with the rear drums for some unknown reason
 

duderz7

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Good chance you have 3 wire abs. Either way I'm pretty sure all axles with the sensor on top use the same tone ring in the carrier as it's also used as a speed sensor. Good luck in your hunt for 4.10's. I went to around 8 yards in my area and looked at 30-40 kj's not one eas a 4 Cylinder (4.10 diffs). Ended up finding a set out of a roll over more than 4 hours away. Check out my thread for more details.
 

moneysinker

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Hi, long time reader, first time poster. Sorry to derail this thread a bit, but I have a question regarding the front right cv axle which connects to the intermediate axle. I'm replacing mine on my 2002 jeep kj, and I can't remember is there supposed to be a gap between where the axle shafts connects? I tried to find info and vids on this but haven't had any luck. Attached a pic.
 

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lfhoward

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There is a gap like that on my 08, both sides. Here’s a pic of the right side.
 

moneysinker

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There is a gap like that on my 08, both sides. Here’s a pic of the right side.
Thanks for that. I wasn't sure if mine had locked into the differential properly because the gap is bigger than the left side.
 

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lfhoward

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If you heard the snap ring click when you put the CV axle in, it should be good. Even if not, if you can’t easily pull the cylinder end of the CV in and out of the housing by hand (just while parked, no need to take a wheel off) and there is no or hardly any play, you should be good.
 

moneysinker

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If you heard the snap ring click when you put the CV axle in, it should be good. Even if not, if you can’t easily pull the cylinder end of the CV in and out of the housing by hand (just while parked, no need to take a wheel off) and there is no or hardly any play, you should be good.
Thanks for the tip, I put it all together and everything fitted together well. Rotating the cv axle also rotated the front drive shaft so safe to say it securely locked in.
 

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