Tips For Removing Stuck Solenoid Pack Harness?

[randomuser107]

Had another thread regarding the solenoid pack itself but seeing as this is sort of a different topic thought I should make another thread where this nuanced question might get more exposure...

Trying to take the solenoid wiring harness off of the solenoid block itself on my 2011 Liberty Ltd, only just now got the red locking pin out after about 10 hours of screwing with the thing, but now I can’t seem to figure out how to pull off the brown harness itself.

Is there a certain area that needs to be squeezed? A specific clip that needs to be lifted and pulled? Is this thing just freaking cemented into the slot? Any insight would be greatly appreciated - can’t even look up a part number to see the actual design of the clip itself and the FSM seems super ambiguous about it. Praying I don’t break anything, put about $9k into this car this year (including purchase) .

Only info I see on replacement harnesses seem to be for up to 05 models not sure if theres any difference in the design past that.. hoping it doesn’t get to that point, I disconnected the solenoid from the valve body itself and finally dropped the valve body thinking it’d be easier to undo the block’s harness from within but I was most definitely wrong.

 

[LibertyTC]

Possibly posting some photos might help to understand what you are dealing with there..

 

[randomuser107]

Just got it out - only took 3 days of reapproaching it . As for photos, I will get under the car again and take a photo of the sensor harness I was having trouble with. For my particular vehicle, the sensor harness had to first have a red locking tab removed which was a total *****, pushed it through and then pulled it from the other side with a screwdriver - then, there’s a somewhat ambiguous push-tab in order to release a clamp that is locked onto the solenoid pack male slow itself! I’ll take a picture of both so that others can use them if they’re as terrible at this as I am. Thank God I didn’t break any of the harnesses wiring, although one of the harnesses on the drivers side will probably need to be held by electrical tape from now on as the locking mechanism cracked lol...

In the event that tape doesn’t work, does anyone have any recommendations for something sticky and sturdy yet removable if I once again need to disconnect the driver side harnesses?

 

[uss2defiant]

i usually use a pick to help with the locking tabs.

to hold the connectors together, zipties would be your friend.

 

[randomuser107]

Well guys, I’m almost done with the repair - been keeping it in a friends garage far off because there’s too much dust where I’m staying to have done this outdoors... had a couple of problems including a stripped valve body screw (was stripped before I went in, just wouldnt budge so i figure i’ll just leave it the way it is.)

Only things I have to do now... reinstall the drive shaft, put back in an O2 sensor and do a TCM quick learn (despite the vehicle downshifting better than ever before lol)

Now that I have this done, I feel like I should service the front and rear diffs as well as the transfer case fluids... the trans fluid was BLACK, I think that’s what broke the solenoid pack lol.

Just wondering what the best oil would be for diffs, I believe I saw LibertyTC mention Lucas 85w-140 (maybe?) due to him towing plenty.

I don’t plan on towing but want to keep the vehicle as problem-free as possible - would lucas 80w-90 in the front and rear be okay? Any reccs on the transfer case fluid?

Would prefer to message people but can’t seem to find the option to do so through the website! Sorry lol

 

[LibertyTC]

Black trans fluid not good. You replaced the ATF+4 fluid and the filter I assume.
KK= Lucas Heavy Duty 80w-90 Dino is the way to go in front diff. Lucas Dino is very sticky stuff, which is what you want, perfect wear protection.
KK= 85w-140 Heavy duty dino is what Is required for the rear diff.
Transfer case is ATF+4.

We prefer that you do not Message folks about technical questions.
The open replies to questions is what helps the community learn from the forum posts.

 

[randomuser107]

Black trans fluid not good. You replaced the ATF+4 fluid and the filter I assume.
KK= Lucas Heavy Duty 80w-90 Dino is the way to go in front diff. Lucas Dino is very sticky stuff, which is what you want, perfect wear protection.
KK= 85w-140 Heavy duty dino is what Is required for the rear diff.
Transfer case is ATF+4.

We prefer that you do not Message folks about technical questions. The open replies to questions is what helps everyone learn from the forum posts.

I think what happened was the RTV chipped off inside the pan and clogged the filter - that combined with the “it’s good for the life of the vehicle!” excuse enabled lazy people to never bother checking it. Thanks for the info on the fluids, helps plenty.

One final question in regards to the lubelocker gasket - I bought it and dropped the pan a few times since then, the second drop and refill seemed best as there were no leaks unlike the first and last drop (these multiple drops are all within the span of a week, the thing is about a month old and used for 2 weeks now) - I seem to have a drip now near one specific drivers-side back-of-the-car bolt despite going to OE torque specs. Maybe I should play with switching some bolts around and see if the leak persists, or do you think theres a chance that I just put it on incorrectly? Using old rusted pan screws, thinking of maybe picking some new ones up at dealership... they got me the torx valve body screws (6500215) within 10 hours of ordering over here for like $3.20 each.

Also, for anyone wondering, MoparPartsGiant.com is legit and has diagrams of all the parts regarding the vehicle making it much easier to identify what you need, although I’ve seen some complaints on shipping time from them - still awesome parts diagrams!

 

[LibertyTC]

The problem with the cheap stamped steel trans pans is that they can warp, & also have potential for slightly elongated bolt holes over time due to over tightening.
Torques spec is critical.
More RTV may be needed around the bolt holes.
Inspection of the pan for being completely level is critical. Check it on a level metal bench. May just be best to install a new trans pan.
Dealer still recommends transmission RTV for this reason.

I had leaks with my stamped steel pan, could not stand it anymore.
Spent the money and ordered a 42RLE machined level PML cast aluminum pan (1.25 quart over stock aprox) with a drain plug =awesome.
Pan will also stay cooler as well.
Then used a 42RLE lubelocker gasket & never looked back.

*The Lubelocker gaskets should never be removed more than twice.

 

[duderz7]

One of the pan bolts needs to be sealed with rtv as it goes into the fluid, I can't remember which one, but the Haynes manual spoke of it as well I believe.

 

[randomuser107]

One of the pan bolts needs to be sealed with rtv as it goes into the fluid, I can't remember which one, but the Haynes manual spoke of it as well I believe.

I think I heard something about bolt 5 using lock and seal adhesive (blue loctite) - will look further into that as well, thank you!

Definitely leaning on some new bolts as these are rested to all hell.

 

[turblediesel]

I've pulled great gobs of blue silicon gasket sealer out of dead engines. There isn't any adhesion to the blue stuff. Use permatex black silicon gasket sealer. It stays stuck where you put it and cleans off pretty well next time you go in there.

The bolts at the back of the transmission pan are meant to act as drains according to the removal process in the service manual. Flatness is critical.