Transfer Case Noise?

[ayosick]

I have been having some issues with my transfer case. At least I think that is what is giving me issues. When I start to move from a stop I can hear a rubbing coming from the back end of my jeep. I doesnt sound good at all. What is causing this, and what are some solutions?

 

[LibertyTC]

The back end would be the rear differential or bearings or brake noise. The transfer case is in the middle.
When was the last time you serviced the rear differential? Should be done every 12,000miles.
How many miles on your Kj and what year is it?

 

[J-Thompson]

start simple and cheep before you start to panic
you said rear this leads me to rear diff or drive shaft
do you have track lock?
when was the last time the gear oil was changed?
if you have track lock was the additive put in?
do you have any slop in the rear drive shaft?
then what t-case do you have? (I know them by 231 or 242)
the 231 will go for 250K miles of taken care of ,change oil every 36K
242 could go the same but not always

 

[family KJ]

Sounds travel throughout the jeep, may sound like it is coming from the rear, but could be anywhere. Also look at the front drive shaft, the CV that is connnected to the t-case could be bad due to the rubber boot gone. One of the most common parts to fail.

 

[ayosick]

My bad I don't know what I was thinking, I think it is coming from the rear differential. It is especially noticeable when I am turning the vehicle from a dead stop. It is like a rubbing/vibration coming from the back end of the jeep.

 

[J-Thompson]

My bad I don't know what I was thinking, I think it is coming from the rear differential. It is especially noticeable when I am turning the vehicle from a dead stop. It is like a rubbing/vibration coming from the back end of the jeep.

This leads me to think it is trash lock going south
you may try to change the oil and if you have trash lock make
sure you put in additive

my advice would be to start saving as you will be replacing it
here is my opinion on rear diff traction aiding devices
-track lock = trash and once they go replace them
-Detroit True Track = ok for off road but really good on road
keep in mind just like with an open diff or trash lock when you lift a wheel
it will spin and my experience tells me that the e-brake trick that people
say works really does not
-Detroit Locker = hands down the best off road and on road is not bad at all
they will not let a wheel to spin
I run 1 in the rear of my TJ and while it is not a DD I dont see it being a problem in a DD and the KJ is longer so it would be better
yes they do scrub the tires a little under full lock turn and ******* the gas
but that is about the only down side on road
*note that the ARB would be better but you are looking at close to $1000 in parts alone for the ARB ,I run 1 in the front of the TJ and with the Detroit
I hardly use it and when I do ,well hold on

 

[LibertyTC]

If you want for ease, take it to the shop if you want the problem identified and driveline/bearings/shaft inspected and rear diff lube changed.
If you want to do some stuff your self...
I would lift the back end off the ground onto stands and see if there is any rotational noise when you turn the rear wheels by hand or grinding feel/side to side bearing movements. How much play in drive shaft?
Then identify if you have a Trac-Lok rear diff. There should be a tag on it left axle side. Or have dealer run your VIN number and they will be able to tell you if it is a Limited slip differential. If it is Trac-lok you must buy Chrysler 4 oz bottle of friction modifier to add into new GL5 75W-90 lube.
Next is onto removing the bolts around the rear diff to drain the gear lube. Use a spray brake cleaner inside housing to get it clean in there. Then inspect clutch/gears, or particulates on magnet, when you drain, could indicate an interior problems.
The rear cover has to be cleaned as well as the mating surface on the diff before RTV sealant applied and bolts re torqued to 28 ft-lbs with a dab of lock-tite on bolts.
Allow RTV to dry 30 minutes before installing the friction modifier and GL5 as above. Fill it to the fill plug line, and put the fill plug back in. Done.

 

[ayosick]

I am going to end up taking it into the shop because it seems like everything is taking a shit on me at the same time. First my rear windshield wiper froze halfway up, then the differential starts to act up, now my passenger side rear window feel out of the track and will not come up.

One thing I did notice about the differential is that is doesnt always act up. And sometimes when it warms up I cant tell there are any issues. Any suggestions?

Any ideas what is wrong with my rear window? If so, how much will it cost to fix, and is it an easy fix. Same question with the rear windshield wiper also.

 

[jnaut]

I have been having some issues with my transfer case. At least I think that is what is giving me issues. When I start to move from a stop I can hear a rubbing coming from the back end of my jeep. I doesnt sound good at all. What is causing this, and what are some solutions?

You may have a brake caliper not compressing and you're dragging a brake pad. Check the wear on your rear pads and see if one set is much more worn than the other side.

I just went through this with my KJ. If it turns out to be that, reman'd caliper isn't all that expensive. about $60 and it's a pretty easy job to do yourself.

 

[subflea]

Any ideas what is wrong with my rear window? If so, how much will it cost to fix, and is it an easy fix.

Window regulator. Common KJ problem.

http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44451&highlight=window+regulator

 

[jnaut]

Window regulator is a permanent fix if you avoid getting the OEM regulator. The Steiger regulator comes pretty recommended. It's an aftermarket regulator someone created because the OEM sucked so bad.

 

[ayosick]

How easy is it to replace the regulator? Also how easy is it to replace the rear windshield wiper. How much would it cost to have done at a shop, and how much to do it myself?

 

[subflea]

How easy is it to replace the regulator? Also how easy is it to replace the rear windshield wiper. How much would it cost to have done at a shop, and how much to do it myself?

If you get that Steiger kit for your window, every review I have seen says the instructions are very easy to follow.

 

[jnaut]

The hardest part is going to be taking the inner door panels off. I'd guess the actual replacement of the regulator itself is probably very easy.

 

[ayosick]

I already have the panel off because I was looking to see what is up. So when the regulator goes does it make a grinding noise when I try to use it?

 

[subflea]

I already have the panel off because I was looking to see what is up. So when the regulator goes does it make a grinding noise when I try to use it?

Yes. Jut go to the Steiger site, it explains exactly what the symptoms are for a failed regulator and also explains why they fail.

http://www.steigerperformance.com/

 

[jnaut]

Word, if the panel is off, the hard part is older.