Transmission code translation?

[mightybeet]

talked it out with my mechanic. he suggested a TCM reset. going to go friday and have him do the proper TCM reset.

i tried the TCM reset per method 1 in the ref thread below. it seems to have helped find and hold gears 2 and 3 in OD up hill at 45 mph. a lot smoother but still hard at times, typically behind someone who is going slow up hill and i have to take my foot off the gas. no transmissions related codes have returned.

http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f196/transmission-relearn-instructions-49103/

 

[ftaa]

there is no tcm it is inside the pcm it may need a re-learn.but any good mechanic woudl have done it .

 

[mightybeet]

i dont think the unit they had could reset the PCM/TCM. it was pretty fancy but only clear the codes unless they missed the option. but it did pull up a hidden code P0713 for transmission temperature senor high input ...though the temp was reading 165°. not sure when it triggered the code and the CEL did not pop on.

P0734 came up again(without CEL) and only comes up with OD on and when it does "slip" down a gear to get more power going up hill. going to replace all the sensors and see what happens.

is the transmission temperature sensor attached to the valve body?

 

[ftaa]

i dont think the unit they had could reset the PCM/TCM. it was pretty fancy but only clear the codes unless they missed the option. but it did pull up a hidden code P0713 for transmission temperature senor high input ...though the temp was reading 165°. not sure when it triggered the code and the CEL did not pop on.

P0734 came up again(without CEL) and only comes up with OD on and when it does "slip" down a gear to get more power going up hill. going to replace all the sensors and see what happens.

is the transmission temperature sensor attached to the valve body?

eithout looking i believe it is inside the ******

 

[mightybeet]

went to transmission shop yesterday morning. they test drove and did the proper quicklearn procedure. pretty much told me it has lived its life. left and got the p0734 shortly after... again od, up hill/on ramp to highway. the rest of the day it shifted okay with 120+ miles of travel. been switching the od off for city driving. so far no code today.

 

[ftaa]

thats what i do awell i only turn od on when on the highway and if accellerating i will turn it off or up hill etc.

a ued ****** from a wrecer i probably about 400 buck mine only ha 130 on it so

 

[mightybeet]

trying to find used with low mileage is going to be hard...

 

[ftaa]

some of the wreckers are in groups and trade part for now hipping.... might help a rebuild depending on where you live i anywhere between 17-2600

 

[Leeann]

I bought a used ****** on eBay from an auto recycler in MI. Lower miles than my Libby and it had a (small) warranty. With the shipping it was less than sourcing a ****** around here with no warranty. I had it shipped to my work because we have a forklift, but the freight company truck had a liftgate. He ran the liftgate down to the height of the cargo compartment in my Astro and he and my coworker slid it in.

Then I installed it myself in my back yard with the Jeep up on jackstands. Very, very important to properly clean out the ****** cooler and lines before installing another ******. If there's any clutch material or chunks of metal, it will clog the cooler and your ****** will blow.

Even including the gas in my Astro to go from MD to MI and back to pick up the non-moving Jeep, the Uhaul car trailer and tolls, I put about $1000 into the job. That's the used ****** with shipping, 2 cans of trans cooler cleaner, 2 new Mopar speed sensors, enough ATF+4 to completely fill the ****** and transfer case and have 2 extra qts for safety, filter, pan goo, drain plug, rust converter and paint, new exhaust bolt retainer clips, 2 new oxygen sensors, windshield wiper blades and a new battery. I already had a portable winch here.

I think that included front and rear brake pads and rotors, but I'm not positive.

So I'm saying if you can do the work yourself, it should cost you well under $1000. My eBay ****** has 12,000 miles on it since the install and is going strong. I bought a rebuild kit for my original ****** and many of the soecial tools, but I've not gotten around to doing the work yet.

 

[mightybeet]

12000 miles? that is a pretty sweet deal. so far maybe 1 at about 80K. everything else is 160Kish.

was quoted $3150 for parts and labor on transtar. 3 year/100,000 mile warranty which is tempting.

 

[ftaa]

12000 miles? that is a pretty sweet deal. so far maybe 1 at about 80K. everything else is 160Kish.

was quoted $3150 for parts and labor on transtar. 3 year/100,000 mile warranty which is tempting.

i've seen built ones brand new for 2200 ... labour i about 600 plu taxe... i'd go built not rebuilt.

 

[mightybeet]

having my current transmission rebuilt is about 2200 to 2500 with 1 year warranty. where did ya find a brand new for 2200?

 

[mightybeet]

okay... so this is all making sense now... got p1776 again and after further readings of every vehicle forum that takes a 42rle the solenoid switch valve is not in the pack but in the valve body. the combination of p1776, p0734, and happening in OD is leaning me towards a sticking valve in the valve body.

 

[ftaa]

did you ever get this solved?

 

[mightybeet]

not yet... got a new solenoid switch valve plug. just need to find time to take it apart.

found this video series which makes it look pretty simple https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZL4B9XPcs8

 

[mightybeet]

still have not touched the transmission but after 6000 miles im getting sick of having to turn OD off before driving away. instead of disassembling the current, i decided to order a VBX/sonnax remanufactured valve body. now i wait for the delivery...

 

[libertybob]

42RLE valve body

Does removal of the valve body on a 42RLE require transmission removal? I think so due to the shift shaft that goes through the transmission and has the cable attachment on the shaft at the top of the transmission. I did not see a way to remove the valve body on my 42RLE without removing the ******. Does anyone know if the valve body can be removed with the trans in the vehicle?

 

[04Liberty]

When the RFE's go in the Rams we just find a low mileage junkyard trans and throw it in with fresh fluid, filters, etc, do a quick learn and go. I've done it twice on my Ram (not quite stock).

 

[mightybeet]

only saw one place recommend dropping the transmission a few inches to help gain access to the TRS, solenoid harness and shift level. everywhere else doesnt mention dropping or unbolting. see below links for some tips.

Thinking of installing a shift kit in your 42rle?? - JeepForum.com
42RLE Solenoid Replacement - pics - need help - JeepForum.com

last time i looked 42rle were about $500 from salvage places but had +150K miles.

Does removal of the valve body on a 42RLE require transmission removal? I think so due to the shift shaft that goes through the transmission and has the cable attachment on the shaft at the top of the transmission. I did not see a way to remove the valve body on my 42RLE without removing the ******. Does anyone know if the valve body can be removed with the trans in the vehicle?

 

[ftaa]

between 350 and 500 is the right price... about 400 more for a shop to put it in .. and thats not including the price of a new torque converter which i think are about 250 (if needed)