So, I just had the front end looked at because my Lib seemed to wander going down the road. This winter I had a lower ball joint break in half, thankfully while backing out of a parking space. So I am a little paranoid about something breaking up there. Thankfully, the front end checked out ok. but they said the rear tri link bushings are shot. I need to know a couple of things about this. 1) is it dangerous to drive like this? and 2) how big of a job is it to replace the tri link or bushings? they gave me an estimate of $450.00, which included 1 hour of labor. IF the bolts holding it in place are not rusted. I live smack dab in the middle of the rust belt is, so you KNOW bolts will be rusted.
TRI LINK
- Thread starter XWrench3
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duderz7
Full Access Member
"If" you can get the bolts out they're pretty easy to replace. Check out iron rock offroad.
I did mine in around an hour and a half, in total but that was over several days because once I got it off I tried to push the old bushes out with a 20T press, even with a close fitting cup under it the arm started to distort so I abandoned that idea and had to wait for a new one to be delivered. If your old arm is better quality then the Chinese one on mine you may get lucky but if I did it again I'd just buy a new arm and stick it on without messing around.
You will need axle stands and a couple of jacks.
You will need axle stands and a couple of jacks.
duderz7
Full Access Member
I was able to press new bushings and ball joint into my original arm, but it was not worth the hassle. I wouldn't suggest it to anyone.
Mine was made from rusty tinfoil
duderz7
Full Access Member
The original part is not much different.
Yeah, I had no plans to replace the bushings / ball joint in the o.e.m. part. i will just buy a new arm. ANY part under there that has been down there for 18 years can not be in good structural shape anymore. I will just buy a part and replace the entire arm. so today will start the week long soaking of all of the bolts with penetrating oil, so that i might be able to remove the parts rather than breaking them.
duderz7
Full Access Member
If you go with the stock style keep in mind that you get what you pay for. Lots of cheap ones that won't last out there. And when you finally find a good one it's about the same cost as the IRO.
Does anyone know the bolt size, spacing and plate thickness on the JBA Y link extension? Looked at the Iron Rock kit but is very pricey once shipped to me. O have the recommended stuff for the OME DIY lift already. Looking at making some links like the one pictured in this thread:
Thread 'JBA Y-Link Extension' https://www.jeepkj.com/threads/jba-y-link-extension.74704/
Thanks.
Thread 'JBA Y-Link Extension' https://www.jeepkj.com/threads/jba-y-link-extension.74704/
Thanks.
duderz7
Full Access Member
If I'm remembering correctly I don't think those lasted to well, more of a bandaid. The IRO is a little pricey, but you'll likely never have to mess with it again.
That will be a future upgrade for sure but budget is a little tight after buying the rest of the parts.
Deb'nKJ
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If it only takes an hour, how can it cost $450?
I reckon it probably took me 2 or 3 days (spread over, I think, 4 weekends) - but the replacement part was only about £80., so not a lot more than 2 bushes.
The bolts were no problem at all, too high up in a sheltered spot to suffer from rust it seems. What took me hours & hours was getting the stud of the balljoint out of the clamp on the diff - & almost as long to fit the new one. Of course, in a shop, on a lift they likely wouldn't have the same problems with lines of sight, never mind access.
Oh, & OP mentioned whether it was dangerous, I moved mine a mile to it's storage site, & back, with it disconnected, very carefully, obviously, & didn't notice anything. Not recommended, but just goes to show that it will never get to the point when it can't be driven.
I reckon it probably took me 2 or 3 days (spread over, I think, 4 weekends) - but the replacement part was only about £80., so not a lot more than 2 bushes.
The bolts were no problem at all, too high up in a sheltered spot to suffer from rust it seems. What took me hours & hours was getting the stud of the balljoint out of the clamp on the diff - & almost as long to fit the new one. Of course, in a shop, on a lift they likely wouldn't have the same problems with lines of sight, never mind access.
Oh, & OP mentioned whether it was dangerous, I moved mine a mile to it's storage site, & back, with it disconnected, very carefully, obviously, & didn't notice anything. Not recommended, but just goes to show that it will never get to the point when it can't be driven.
The design of the oem one is poor, the bushes are in the wrong position, it should have been designed the same as the front upper wishbone! I did think about making something better but I'm busy with life at the moment.
sorry that I forgot to post here right after I got this fixed. I had a lot on my plate at that time. replacement was not easy, but it was not as bad as I would have thought. with the exception of the drivers side bolt came out with all of the body threads with it. I ended up buying a grade 8 bolt, nut and washers, and drilling all the way through the body, placing the nut and washers on the inside of the cab under the seat. i used red Loctite on the nut. so this should be a "permanent" repair.
I can check the thickness when i get home in about a week. I want to say 3/8" but it might be 1/2". The bolt spacing and diameter can be measured on any KJ. Bolts are little longer is all.
