Wheel Bearing Time, are these right?

[Whelan]

Time to do the fronts, I'm pretty sure it's just the front left but figured with the mileage just do both and be done.

Seems a pretty straight forward job, remove brakes, unclip wire harness, 35mm bolt, then the 3 behind and bang it out. Am I missing anything?

Also looking for the right parts. But it seems skewed on numbers, I'm assuming they are different for L and R. It's a 2005 3.7L Limited with 4WD and ABS. So if anyone can assist, I was looking for Timkens if possible.

I see they have the HA599455L which is for both left and right just wanted to be sure.

 

[duderz7]

I did mine not long ago, same Jeep even. l also used timken, they're not left and right specific. Before removing brake caliper bracket stick a large screwdriver into the disc vent against it to keep it from rotating while removing axle but. This is also a good time to consider CV axles as you're almost that deep in. The wheel bearing takes an E14 iirc for the 3 bolts. Pretty straightforward job really. Let us know if you get stumped

 

[Whelan]

Good tip for the 35mm nut, Could save some time doing it myself. I found a great vid on 1A Auto that covers the procedures. Picked up the order for 250 shipped from Rock Auto for Timkens, good to know they are the same regardless of side. Looked on their catalog site and it said the same.

As far as other components I'm really just doing bare minimum requirements at this time as their is oil consumption and with 190k on the clock this car is going to be replaced but I'd like 1 more year out of it. Whether we go to another Jeep or move to a 4 Runner still TBD. Thanks for the heads up.

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[duderz7]

A couple of good thanks to the end of the axle after removing nut to break it loose, I like a 2-4lb mini sledge hammer for this, careful not to wreck the threads

 

[Whelan]

A couple of good thanks to the end of the axle after removing nut to break it loose, I like a 2-4lb mini sledge hammer for this, careful not to wreck the threads

I have a small sledge I use for brake rotors that works well. The tips say to keep one E14 in about 1/3 of the way to protect it when it pops off. I plan on jacking her car up the night before and soaking it all in PB overnight just to be sure.

 

[jeeptorino68]

You absolutely need the e14 bit. I had to heat the threads / area where the e14 bolt threads in to get them out. I was worried about stripping the head.

I took them to the local hardware store to replace with a grade 12.9 equivalent with hex head, which fits fine

 

[duderz7]

I don't mind the E14, the threads do extend out the other side, so a presoak is a good idea.

 

[Whelan]

Turns out I needed a new drivers CV anyways. Passenger went off/on easily but the drivers is totally seized to the bearing. So I pulled it all out. Napa had a reman for $50 but core is $150! No big but tomorrow I can finish it up when the new one comes in. PITA since I’m gonna try to get away with just pulling the fork to get the old one out and new one in place.

 

[capecodbob]

Time to do the fronts, I'm pretty sure it's just the front left but figured with the mileage just do both and be done.

Seems a pretty straight forward job, remove brakes, unclip wire harness, 35mm bolt, then the 3 behind and bang it out. Am I missing anything?

Also looking for the right parts. But it seems skewed on numbers, I'm assuming they are different for L and R. It's a 2005 3.7L Limited with 4WD and ABS. So if anyone can assist, I was looking for Timkens if possible.

I see they have the HA599455L which is for both left and right just wanted to be sure.

I also had a left front noise, growling. I got a used knuckle with hub in it from NC as less rust, Mine was so crusty I could not bust the hub bolts loose. Changed it and I still have the growl but a little different ? Maybe CV joint or the used bearing is also NG. Try A1A auto for parts.

It was a real bear to change in the driveway and spent a long time getting the hub off. They don't fall out. Check some youtube vids and see how tuff.

 

[Whelan]

Took a bit of time to do the whole job but it's done, now I just need to do a drain/fill of the differential fluid up front this evening.

Passenger side came out easily and was pretty straightforward

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The screwdriver in the caliper bracket trick worked great!

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And yes you WILL want to get the right E14 socket, I didn't tempt fate and bought one for $5

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Drivers side was seized food and so I just pulled the whole thing out. I was able to simply pop the suspension fork off, pop the upper ball joint and get it all out and in again.

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The core charge on the reman was ridiculous but worth it to just slide in and click into place. Good thing I kept the bolt from the old one, the new one had a 36mm head and I only had a 35 and wasn't going back out, it fit perfectly on the threads though.

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I also took the opportunity to change the pads up front and toss a new rotor on the driver side. Fixed the grinding I was hearing during moderate to hard braking which glazed the old rotor, issue was I did not have the caliper slide pins in right (boot one on the top)

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[fishyx]

I'm getting ready to tackle the front left hub on the old 2002 hunt camp Liberty in the next couple of weeks. Any suggestions for a cheap hub assembly that's decent? Not sure how much life is left in her but she just got a new radiator yesterday. This Liberty is just used to get in and out of the deer woods but I'd like to keep her kickin for a few more years.

Just ordered a Detroit Axle Hub from Amazon for around $60.00

 

[fishyx]

Just got the new hub on today and she's no longer howling. Pretty easy job and I'm guessing the hub puller saved me a good amount of time. Took me about 3 hours including cleanup. The $50.00 Detroit Axle hub seems decent enough and the ABS Speed sensor is working just fine. I was worried about the 36mm 6 point socket but it worked just fine on the 35mm axle nut.

 

[duderz7]

Just got the new hub on today and she's no longer howling. Pretty easy job and I'm guessing the hub puller saved me a good amount of time. Took me about 3 hours including cleanup. The $50.00 Detroit Axle hub seems decent enough and the ABS Speed sensor is working just fine.

Let us know of it failed on you.

 

[uss2defiant]

can the CV shaft cause the howling noise as well?

 

[tommudd]

Just got the new hub on today and she's no longer howling. Pretty easy job and I'm guessing the hub puller saved me a good amount of time. Took me about 3 hours including cleanup. The $50.00 Detroit Axle hub seems decent enough and the ABS Speed sensor is working just fine. I was worried about the 36mm 6 point socket but it worked just fine on the 35mm axle nut.

You installed the one from Detroit Axle? Oh no, hope it lasts better than rest of their crap

 

[fishyx]

You installed the one from Detroit Axle? Oh no, hope it lasts better than rest of their crap

It was $60.00 on Amazon and was just going on the old 2002 Hunt camp Liberty. We just use it to beat around the trails and retrieve deer. Even if it's crappy quality it may outlast the vehicle. Anti-seized the crap out of everything just in case. Are Detroit Axle hubs known to be junk???