Window Regulator Question

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cwbyflyer

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Well, 3 weeks into Jeep KJ ownership and the driver's side rear window regulator appears to have failed (window down all the way when I went out to work this morning). The quote from my mechanic is $250 parts and labor.

I was thinking about trying to do this repair on my own. However, I'm not the most mechanical of folks. How hard is it to change out the regulator and motor? Any tips would be appreciated.

Thanks
Mike
 

uss2defiant

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very easy.
Usually it's just the plastic piece that pushes the glass that needs replacement so you don't have to fork out alot of money for the whole assembly.
You have to go ebay/aftermarket for the repair kit.

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ftaa

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steiger performance has an actual repair kit for a fraction of the cost of a new regulator .. comes with very concise instructions..... my wife did mine.
 

uss2defiant

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good point. i believe steiger was the orignal repair kit.
A lot of other off brands have used that design for a fraction of the price.
Unfortunately steiger is really pricey :/

Here's the link anyways
http://www.steigerperformance.com/dif.cgi?SP13001

The kit I used was from ebay and it is the same as the vid I posted.

your money, your jeep, your call.
 
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cwbyflyer

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Thanks everyone!

I ordered the parts last night. In the meantime, I stuffed an old pool noodle inside the door to keep the window in the up position.
 

M38 Bob

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Mine was the driver's window. Intermittent function, worked perfectly when working, or not at all without slamming hell out of door repeatedly. Ordered the motor lift assy from Chry dealer, $110.xx, and was waiting for time to install when next door business neighbor, a used car lot guy asked me to come over and assist with brake bleed on an older Dodge van. Got there, and took a glance and realized he'd replaced both calipers with new reman. Problem was he put them on the wrong sides! Bleeders were at bottom, so air could never get out. I said "*******, swap em over to the right side and you won't need help bleeding". Guy's pretty experienced, it embarrassed him enough that the next day when I asked him if he had time to do window regulator (he does couple every month) he said "sure", and then said that labor was his cost for caliper education. Had it back to me in less than 30 minutes.

Bob
 

SWilliams

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Thanks everyone!

I ordered the parts last night. In the meantime, I stuffed an old pool noodle inside the door to keep the window in the up position.

OK I read this fast and could have sworn it said you stuffed and "old poodle" in there.... :ROFLJest:


I've used the Steiger kit and the one from ebay (autoandart and others) Only difference I saw in them was the price. 100 bucks per window or 75 bucks for a kit to do all 4.
They are EASY to install. The hardest part is usually getting the water barrier off without getting the glue all over! (Trick to that is a SHARP blade, pull up on the barrier a bit and slice through the glue where it stretches).
 
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biz999

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My passenger rear window is currently held very securely by a single zap strap running the hole where the regulator attaches to the window and a hole in the inside of the door. I'm probably going to order a replacement plastic regulator off of Amazon for $13. I've already torn that window assembly down completely to remove the broken plastic which took a little creativity, but I can rebuild it...hopefully...
 

4x4kayak2112

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Look up "autoandart" they have the metal plate to fix it and its under 40 bucks. I have three, perfect fit
 

SWilliams

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autoandart is the ones I have on the shelf. I have a Steiger set as well, They are almost identical except for price. I have found the same issue with both. The pin on the glass bracket that sticks through the bottom has to push all the way in. Frequently they are bent a bit from use and they don't seat properly. You can bend them GENTLY and they will push through and lock in.
 

Bruceb

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Both my rear plastic pieces broke, I actually replaced them with metal replacement I got on ebay for $40. You basically cut the very end of the cable off, dremel some of the "fiber" from about an inch of the cable, and wind it on the metal piece. Replace as usual. The only problem I had was keeping it clipped on the ball on the bottom of the window, I used some "Great Stuff", in the slot with the clip and have had no problem now for over a year.
 

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