MSReNeGaDe
Banned
Again how is a thin walled(goes for JK D44 also) axled tube with a 7.25" ring gear better then a D44?
Sorry i forgot your always right.
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Again how is a thin walled(goes for JK D44 also) axled tube with a 7.25" ring gear better then a D44?
No I'd like a valid reason why you think a D30 is better then a D44,valid ? so write down a valid answer.Then look it up and find the true answer about the strength difference between a D30 and D44 and compare to your answer and you will see your full of s***.Sorry i forgot your always right.
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No I'd like a valid reason why you think a D30 is better then a D44,valid ? so write down a valid answer.Then look it up and find the true answer about the strength difference between a D30 and D44 and compare to your answer and you will see your full of s***.
The KJ is actually 62.5" Rear
While the XJ 30hp is 58.75"
so it's almost a 4" Difference in reality, if you dpn't believe me strip her down and measure your rear Rotor hat to Rotor hat surface where the wheel bolts up.
I figured out where you messed up
You mixed up the K & J
Rather than KJ you searched JK
Easy mistake
So I magically have a JK rear axle in My Liberty?
Seems to me like a good SFA D30 from any Jeep product costs at least as much as fullsize D44 stuff. Plus the FSD44 is already setup for locking hubs in most cases. So I don't see the point of the D30 unless bolt pattern is the main attraction.
I'd like to have an OX or e-locker front and rear. That's a tall order for the stock axles. Options are endless the moment you step up to D44s.
I'd like to see a JBA steel diff in a D44 flavour. Maybe I can bootyfab something from a Ford ttb chunk. Guts can be recycled into a SFA later.
There's lots of info on Pirate4x4 on using Dana 50 and JK44 gears in conventional HP44/D44 housings.
What do you mean by "a tall order for stock axles"
And why it's not a big deal for your D30.Slap some 35" MT's on and and go balls to the wall on your stock D30.Heck the stock KJ D30A can handle what your putting your D30 through with 32" tires,I know I did it for years so not that impressive by anymeans.tires that are 32.5" tall
I mean the stock axles... D30A IFS and 8.25".
Just seems to me it doesn't cost anything extra to go to D44 vs D30.
My front HP44 is 37 years old,the tubes are straight,but then again 1/2" thick DOM can take a beating.The JK's D44 is a HP diff but not a true D44,does not share one thing with any other D44 besides the diff cover and it's parts demand a higher cost then say a 30-40 year old HP44.Your front bearings are what $150-$250 per side,mine are $80 for the complete set and serviceable.Why would you use a part from a significantly older vehicle? There really isn't much thought for me. 40 year old axle vs 10 year old axle.
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My front HP44 is 37 years old,the tubes are straight,but then again 1/2" thick DOM can take a beating.The JK's D44 is a HP diff but not a true D44,does not share one thing with any other D44 besides the diff cover and it's parts demand a higher cost then say a 30-40 year old HP44.Your front bearings are what $150-$250 per side,mine are $80 for the complete set and serviceable.
As the they say "they don't build them like they used to".
Just look at some of the most sought after front diffs,the kingpin HP60's,there far from new and a bone stock one starts at about $1000 selling price.The most sought after rear axle for ********* wheelers is the C14 and that axle is old also,cheap to buy(usually $50-$100 for complete diff),and untill you start running 500+HP on 44"+ tires you can generally run the stock axles with gears and lockers with zero issues.
Running those bigger tires you'll be changing then alot sooner.Again who cares about front bearings? I guess i will in 3-4 years if they start to go out, but i doubt it.
And your right they don't build them like they used to. Its call progress.
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Running those bigger tires you'll be changing then alot sooner.
If you call weak unit bearings and only 1/4" thick axle tubes progress you got alot to learn,heck even running ball joints is a major step backwards in the strength department.It's sad that JK 44's require a couple hundred dollars in mods(sleeve kits + labor) just to hang with a 30+ year old stock housing like the HP44('75-'78) in the strength department.
Why the thinner tubes,unit bearings,and ball joints in new axles? The bean counters and keeping the axle lighter for improved mpg's due to federal reg's that are ever increasing.
Go and plaster your opinions on Pirate,I need a good laugh.
Still can not see how you think D30 parts are any more available then a D44(not a TJ/JK 44).Considering there was 3 automakers using interchangeable parts for the most part for over 40 years.Sure the D30 has no shortage of parts available but by no means more or easier then a older D44,not to mention cost more then a D44.I am still confused
I keep hearing 1 story of "my great 44 build"
But never the practical side
the fact that parts are much more readily available
for a TJ Dana 30 or even better an XJ 30 ,high pinion
The fact that the TJ track width is with in 1" of the KJ
Trust me i measured
The fact that when wheelin with a group if you should
break something and not have a spare some one else
probably will ,a stock part that was up graded
Fine you have the fancy all out best built rig ever to hit
the trail
You did spend more on the up grades then I did on
the purchase and build up of my rig
and there is no place you can go on 35's I can not go
on 33's
Say what you want I don't have to drive mine to work
in the morning ,you do
See the way I look at things is with a bit of common sense
it is a lot like **** polishing ,buff it all you want it is still
a **** and no body likes a ****
I have come to terms with the fact that my rig is a ****
But I know that she will rock a trail like I want it to
So keep you $10K axle
I will take my $200 **** and replace it 50 times
But that is 50 time I pushed it to the limit