Well, being the old man living under a rock that I am, I made a possibly serious mistake. when I bought my Liberty last week, the coolant was low, so I added enough regular (yellow-green) Prestone antifreeze to top it off. no bog deal, until 3 minutes ago while looking at the required fluids chart posted on this site, it said a color of anti-freeze i had previously not heard of before. so how bad is this mistake? and what do i need to do to fix it. fortunately, the truck did not overheat on my 240 mile road trip yesterday going to retrieve my son from college. I guess the other question is why does it need the "newfangled" HOAT antifreeze to begin with, and what happens if i do nothing at all?
Wrong Coolant-Now I've gone and done it..............
- Thread starter XWrench3
- Start date
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RIGHT NOW !!!!! change the antifreeze, flush out the system really well and hope
The HOAT is needed due to having the right cocktail of chemicals to react well with the make up of the cooling system
But if you like tearing apart the KJ then by all means use more Prestone and be ready to replace parts in the cooling system soon
That is why you read and understand that KJs take certain fluids, the right spark plugs ( NGK copper ) , MOPAR thermostats etc
The HOAT is needed due to having the right cocktail of chemicals to react well with the make up of the cooling system
But if you like tearing apart the KJ then by all means use more Prestone and be ready to replace parts in the cooling system soon
That is why you read and understand that KJs take certain fluids, the right spark plugs ( NGK copper ) , MOPAR thermostats etc
Billwill
Full Access Member
tommud just beat me to it^
All the latest Jeeps and some other vehicles Must have Mopar HOAT or ZEREX in the correct ratio with distilled water or everything gets clogged up.
So you need to drain the whole system and flush it all out including the Heater Core.
You can download Jeep KJ Service Manuals for most years here:
www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/
All the latest Jeeps and some other vehicles Must have Mopar HOAT or ZEREX in the correct ratio with distilled water or everything gets clogged up.
So you need to drain the whole system and flush it all out including the Heater Core.
You can download Jeep KJ Service Manuals for most years here:
www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/
is there a certain cooling system flush i should use? and what about stop leak? i was a motorcycle mechanic for 40 years (disabled back in 2003 due to a back injury) and we were instructed to instal a canister of the silver powder stop leak anytime the coolant was replaced. is that something i should do? or does the new coolant address that issue as well?
NO NO ON STOP LEAK
WHY IN THE WORLD WOULD YOU BE REQUIRED TO INSTALL STOP LEAK EVERYTIME YOU DID ANYTHING TO THE COOLING SYSTEM?
Been working on vehicles for over 48 years never heard of such a thing
WHY IN THE WORLD WOULD YOU BE REQUIRED TO INSTALL STOP LEAK EVERYTIME YOU DID ANYTHING TO THE COOLING SYSTEM?
Been working on vehicles for over 48 years never heard of such a thing
I am sure it was Suzuki's way of heading off warranty claims. if a radiator has a tiny pin hole in it, and you spin the engine up to and in some cases over 14,000 rpm, there is going to be a significant amount of water pressure (not cooling system pressure) just from the coolants resistance to make sharp turns at that speed. so the quick and easy fix is to add stop leak.
Billwill
Full Access Member
I used Stop Leak in my very old vehicles circa about 1966....to temporary fix leaks before trading them in to get a newer vehicle!
Would not touch that stuff at all on my Jeep!
Our useless Jeep Dealers here would probably use it and claim they replaced a head gasket or radiator!
Would not touch that stuff at all on my Jeep!
Our useless Jeep Dealers here would probably use it and claim they replaced a head gasket or radiator!
"I used Stop Leak in my very old vehicles circa about 1966....to temporary fix leaks before trading them in to get a newer vehicle!"
yep, the thick and gooey Bars Leak complete with rabbit pellets! my dad used that stuff in our old cars, it was his "go to" for any kind of cooling system leak. to this day i have no clue as to why any of our cars had heat. the newer stuff looks like fine aluminum powder. i don't know what it is made of, but if i HAD to use one kind or another, i would use the new kind. at least its small enough to not plug up a complete tube in a radiator or heater core.
"yep, the thick and gooey Bars Leak complete with rabbit pellets! my dad used that stuff in our old cars, it was his "go to" for any kind of cooling system leak. to this day i have no clue as to why any of our cars had heat. the newer stuff looks like fine aluminum powder. i don't know what it is made of, but if i HAD to use one kind or another, i would use the new kind. at least its small enough to not plug up a complete tube in a radiator or heater core.
Always refer to your owners manual or service manuals, as Jeeps are very particular for fluid types, gear lubes, spark plugs etc etc.
Do you have the owners manual ?
Here are the two recommended premixed correct coolants. We have a cast iron block with aluminum heads.
Zerex G-05 can be found at WallMart.
Do you have the owners manual ?
Here are the two recommended premixed correct coolants. We have a cast iron block with aluminum heads.
Zerex G-05 can be found at WallMart.
You must be registered for see images attach
Ahhh, but it will plug them up"I used Stop Leak in my very old vehicles circa about 1966....to temporary fix leaks before trading them in to get a newer vehicle!
yep, the thick and gooey Bars Leak complete with rabbit pellets! my dad used that stuff in our old cars, it was his "go to" for any kind of cooling system leak. to this day i have no clue as to why any of our cars had heat. the newer stuff looks like fine aluminum powder. i don't know what it is made of, but if i HAD to use one kind or another, i would use the new kind. at least its small enough to not plug up a complete tube in a radiator or heater core.
#1) I AM NOT trying to start an argument, or be an a$$. what i AM trying to do, is learn about my new vehicle. i downloaded and looked up the service manual. in it it, if i read it correctly, that the coolant is ethylene glycol, and the HOAT is an additive. if i am not mistaken, regular antifreeze is ethylene glycol, isn't it? I'm not saying that there will not be a reaction between the additive packages between any two coolants. but i think (and I can be wrong) that the base of both coolants are the same.
Read this and see if it now makes sense to you
This guide breaks down the most common types of antifreeze by their commonly associated colors. Not all types of antifreeze are covered.
Green
If you have a green coolant, you have Inorganic Acid Technology (IAT) coolant. This type of coolant is the original type of coolant on the market. This means that if you drive an older model car, it likely still uses green antifreeze.
This type of coolant is sometimes referred to as conventional low-silicate coolant. This is because it uses silicates as corrosion inhibitors.
Historically, a green-dyed coolant was designed for cars and small trucks. You would have to dilute the coolant with water and “pre-charge” it with supplemental coolant additives. These additives were designed to protect engine cylinders from corrosion.
Orange
An orange coolant typically indicates that you are looking at Organic Acid Technology (OAT) coolant. This type of coolant uses organic acids as an inhibitor.
This is the type of coolant usually required for GM, Saab, and VW vehicles.
OAT coolants do not have nitrites added. Contamination with nitrite – such as if you were to add the wrong type of coolant to the system – can drastically reduce the performance life of the OAT coolant.
Orange-dyed coolants typically protect an engine for 600k miles, as long as they remain pure and uncontaminated.
Yellow
A Hybrid OAT (HOAT) coolant is also an option. It is typically dyed yellow.
This type of coolant mixes technology from the first two to create a low-silicate, nitrite technology. It contains both silicates and organic acids as inhibitors.
Ford, Chrysler and some other European companies recommend this type of coolant for their cars.
HOAT coolants, like the IAT coolants, require additives mixed back into the coolant system every 25k miles, or as specified by the engine manufacturer.
*********HOAT coolants formulations are not compatible with OAT coolants because they do contain nitrites. They should not be mixed together.
Red
If you have red coolant in your cooling system, you have Extended Life Coolant. This coolant is recommended for use in Toyota, Scion and Lexus.
It can be used in any engine requiring a OAT engine coolant.
Red coolant offers 150k miles of protection. Like other OAT coolants, don’t mix it with nitrate or silicate-based antifreeze.
None of us are trying to be an butt either, but you have to remember many of us have been working on these for 12-15 years and longer and have been on the various forums and have seen and read what happens when say wrong coolant is used or it mixed . Just like some parts have to be MOPAR for example, the Zone parts simply do not work , so take it with a grain of salt . I;m sure you could teach a thing or two about overseas bikes , I've only ran Harleys for the last 45 years so only time I worked on one of those *** bikes was building a 750 Kaw with a big bore kit back in 87 to drag race, so , ....
This guide breaks down the most common types of antifreeze by their commonly associated colors. Not all types of antifreeze are covered.
Green
If you have a green coolant, you have Inorganic Acid Technology (IAT) coolant. This type of coolant is the original type of coolant on the market. This means that if you drive an older model car, it likely still uses green antifreeze.
This type of coolant is sometimes referred to as conventional low-silicate coolant. This is because it uses silicates as corrosion inhibitors.
Historically, a green-dyed coolant was designed for cars and small trucks. You would have to dilute the coolant with water and “pre-charge” it with supplemental coolant additives. These additives were designed to protect engine cylinders from corrosion.
Orange
An orange coolant typically indicates that you are looking at Organic Acid Technology (OAT) coolant. This type of coolant uses organic acids as an inhibitor.
This is the type of coolant usually required for GM, Saab, and VW vehicles.
OAT coolants do not have nitrites added. Contamination with nitrite – such as if you were to add the wrong type of coolant to the system – can drastically reduce the performance life of the OAT coolant.
Orange-dyed coolants typically protect an engine for 600k miles, as long as they remain pure and uncontaminated.
Yellow
A Hybrid OAT (HOAT) coolant is also an option. It is typically dyed yellow.
This type of coolant mixes technology from the first two to create a low-silicate, nitrite technology. It contains both silicates and organic acids as inhibitors.
Ford, Chrysler and some other European companies recommend this type of coolant for their cars.
HOAT coolants, like the IAT coolants, require additives mixed back into the coolant system every 25k miles, or as specified by the engine manufacturer.
*********HOAT coolants formulations are not compatible with OAT coolants because they do contain nitrites. They should not be mixed together.
Red
If you have red coolant in your cooling system, you have Extended Life Coolant. This coolant is recommended for use in Toyota, Scion and Lexus.
It can be used in any engine requiring a OAT engine coolant.
Red coolant offers 150k miles of protection. Like other OAT coolants, don’t mix it with nitrate or silicate-based antifreeze.
None of us are trying to be an butt either, but you have to remember many of us have been working on these for 12-15 years and longer and have been on the various forums and have seen and read what happens when say wrong coolant is used or it mixed . Just like some parts have to be MOPAR for example, the Zone parts simply do not work , so take it with a grain of salt . I;m sure you could teach a thing or two about overseas bikes , I've only ran Harleys for the last 45 years so only time I worked on one of those *** bikes was building a 750 Kaw with a big bore kit back in 87 to drag race, so , ....
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" HOAT coolants, like the IAT coolants, require additives mixed back into the coolant system every 25k miles, or as specified by the engine manufacturer."
so what do i have to put back into the coolant every 25,000 miles?
so what do i have to put back into the coolant every 25,000 miles?
Everything has gotten more complicated LOL
Just bought a new washer today, it knows more than I do on how to clean clothes
My old one just dump detergent in and clothes, close the lid, punch a button
Not this one
Ready to head back to Tanzania and doing laundry by hand ha ha
Doing10to20
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Where do you live,cold weather ?
You run antifreeze no matter where you live , its just not for keeping a vehicle cooling system from freezing
ALSO, Antifreeze contains inhibitors which reduce limescale and corrosion in your engine.
Note: While distilled water will not cause limescale, it is more aggressive to metal than tap water, and causes more corrosion.
ALSO, Antifreeze contains inhibitors which reduce limescale and corrosion in your engine.
Note: While distilled water will not cause limescale, it is more aggressive to metal than tap water, and causes more corrosion.
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Doing10to20
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I dont know man..I havent run anything but distilled water in over 13yrs of living in Az ,havent touched antifreeze since I left Illinois and all my jeeps are in great shape..only 1 that gets coolant is the bmw..nothing wrong with doing what you're doing,youre following the manual,but dude will be fine with what he put in his liberty,there will be no catastrophic failure or long term damage,you all a bit dramatic
LOL
Funny, so many comedians out of work and you're trying to break into the gameIve seen the results first hand , I know what mixing them will do and there is nothing over dramatic about helping someone avoid a costly mistake
AGAIN,.....
While distilled water will not cause limescale, it is more aggressive to metal than tap water, and causes more corrosion.
Billwill
Full Access Member
When I recently replaced my Jeeps water there is no way I could use normal tap water...where I live this water is un-drinkable and burns my eyes in the shower..so I...and most of my Neighbors buy clean water from a local distributor.
This states that it is: "Reverse Osmosis and Ozonation" ....whatever that means! I incorrectly reffered to it as "Distilled Water"
Added the Mopar Hoat to it in the recommended proportion for my climate.
This states that it is: "Reverse Osmosis and Ozonation" ....whatever that means! I incorrectly reffered to it as "Distilled Water"
Added the Mopar Hoat to it in the recommended proportion for my climate.
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