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  1. K

    Help identify source of an oil leak

    Good point. To the OP, are you losing power steering fluid?
  2. K

    Battery is losing voltage on ‘05 Liberty Sport with 80k miles

    As I mentioned in another post here, one good way to find a parasitic draw is to probe each fuse with a volt meter as described in this vid: When taking readings, record any significant voltages you get and where the associated fuses are located. When done, start with the fuse that gave you...
  3. K

    Assorted interior lights staying on post-battery-drain and recharge…

    Some things remain actively powered after key is removed for various reasons. The power windows, for example, stay functional for a set time (or until the driver's door is opened) to allow one to roll the windows up without requiring the key to be cycled back on again after engine shut down...
  4. K

    Help identify source of an oil leak

    You can buy some dye that you add to the engine oil, which fluoresces when you shine a black light on it. You might want to give that a try if you're worried about it
  5. K

    Assorted interior lights staying on post-battery-drain and recharge…

    When you say "the window buttons," do you mean the windows still operate long after the key is removed from the ignition? From what you described, it sounds like you may have a problem with the body control module not going to "sleep" when it's otherwise supposed to. You should check for codes...
  6. K

    P0203 Code

    P0203 means there's a problem with injector (or its wiring) @ cyl #3 and P0303 means a misfire has been detected at that same cylinder. To answer your question, yes, a bad (upstream) O2 can cause a misfire, but in your case it looks like an issue with injector 3 is your problem
  7. K

    Reaching out to this website for help

    That's pretty odd. Since it's a solid axle back there, one side being off should affect the other as well, Are you sure you don't have a bent axle shaft on the left side? Maybe have someone follow behind you on the road to see if there's any wobbling going on.
  8. K

    Wheel bearing or axle....????

    You can't reliably narrow down which side is bad by doing that, which is why I suggested using something like a ChassisEar tool. Plenty of times I've seen the bearing that was actually bad be on the opposite side in the example you gave.
  9. K

    Instrument Cluster Not Working

    Wheel speed sensor maybe? You realize this is a Liberty forum, right?
  10. K

    Wheel bearing or axle....????

    Seems like it's a wheel bearing from your descript. As to which side is bad, you'd need something like a ChassisEar tool to know for sure. You could also keep driving it until the bearing eventually gets some play in it, too.
  11. K

    CEL - Cylinder Misfire

    Get a capable scanner, look under Mode 6 and check the misfire counters for each cylinder. If there is a high count on just one cylinder, narrow your diagnoses to that cylinder. If there are misfires on multiple cylinders, you may have a lean condition on one bank (or both). Check fuel trims at...
  12. K

    P0171

    You may want to disconnect the connectors on both upstream sensors then drive the car to see if things improve any once it warms up. It should force the PCM to stay in open loop mode. You can also pull a vacuum line and add propane or carb cleaner to the port to see if the fuel trim value...
  13. K

    P0171

    Interesting. Usually when there's problems going from open to closed (edited) loop it's the upstreams. Do you still have that exhaust leak you mentioned and, if so, is it before the upstream sensor? A leak before the sensor can cause that sensor mis-report.
  14. K

    P0171

    What brand O2 did you buy? NTK is the only brand you should be using. Many others are known to cause problems. Buy from a reputable source (a real auto part store, not ebay or Amazon).
  15. K

    My first KJ, anything I need to be aware of?

    Lower ball joints, as mentioned. Window regulators tend to go bad as well. There's an updated aftermarket design that does away with problematic long coil spring in the OEMs. Note that the front differential is kinda weak due to its aluminum housing and they're known to crack when pushed hard.
  16. K

    Idle high after lifter change

    I just changed the lifters on the passenger side bank and now the idle is way too high, I popped the hood and noticed I left the IAT unplugged. Plugged it back in but no change. I scanned and got codes for that sensor, plus one for the MAP, though that was plugged in. I erased codes but high...
  17. K

    engine sputters after start

    Try flooring the accelerator next time you crank it and see if there's any change.
  18. K

    three warning lights

    As mentioned, you probably have a bad wheel speed sensor (or problem in the wiring). A scan with a capable scanner might help point you in the right direction. If you have auto part stores in your area that do free scans, hit them until you get the code you're looking for. I had a similar...
  19. K

    03 Liberty 3.7 throwing lots of weird codes and then resets itself.

    The ECU will apparently cut the control signal going to an ignition coil when it suspects a problem with it. A cycling of the key or clearing of the CEL usually will restore things until it detects the problem again. Perhaps your problem is coil-related.
  20. K

    Immobilizer SKIM Pin code

    I was (luckily) able to get my PIN from my local Jeep/Chrysler dealer. I skipped the thieves at the service dept and went straight to parts. Had my registration and driver's license at the ready in case they needed it and was prepared to hit other dealers in the area if they gave me trouble...

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