here.
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2020/05/08/cooling-system-tech-overflow-tanks-vs-expansion-tanks/
the tank that we have is both combined into one.
The dirty side is the expansion side and the 'clean' side or driver side is the overflow side.
yeah. i think as long as one has that one e-rad fan relay by the wheel well, it'll be PWM.
There was a TSB about replaying the smaller factory SSR with the larger one.
Good luck to OP.
main cooling is always by the e-rad fan and not the clutch fan.
my thoughts are the same as Jeepjeepster with regards to the rad. Since you don't know how well it was taken care of in the past, most of the small passages is probably clogged preventing good cooling of your system.
the testing...
yes. just crack it until fluid comes out.
Fill the block as well from that point as well.
You may need some high temp thread sealant. I had to to have a good seal.
If you have never unbolted it before it may be tough initially.
i've used this http://connectors.dcctools.com/home.htm to find a replacement mopar connector.
Might be cheaper and to go to a pullapart and cut one off and splice it in with some butt connectors.
Otherwise, just use a corresponding interconnect w/ the same number of pins for both sides of the...
probably a good opportunity to 'flush' your coolant.
What i've done in the past is drain as much as I can, install new WP and fill with DI water. Reinstall the old t-stat.
I run it till hot drain and refill with DI water. Repeat a few cycles then install new t-stat.
fill with 100% coolant to get...
i have had some sort of corrosion on the mating surface of where the WP gasket goes to.
Basically a bunch of small dimples along the surface.
I had to add JB weld and sand it down smooth. Had to do this twice and hopefully it's still working fine.
Hopefully you don't have the same issue as i did.
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