You could try the stop leak I suppose if you say you've got nothing to lose.. But if it were my money, I'd rather spend it on some oem o-rings for the hoses and see if that doesn't remedy the problem.
Grade 8 bolts I'd imagine..especially being that it's your suspension..
You could look for grade 8.2 bolts as well, but I'm pretty sure they're the same tensile as a grade 8 bolt.
If you actually read what I said, I mentioned the want to get inside the frame. Try searching for a 3m wax based corrosion protection spray with a wand.
It's just a canister, that rather than having a spray nozzle, has an 18" wand. The wand has 360° spray as well so there's no need to rotate...
3m makes a wax based corrosion protection that comes with a wand, much like fluid film, but I've never been a fan of fluid film... don't think garage floors are much of a fan of it either..
Just pop the sensor back off the differential, connect a dvom, and turn the key to on and see if there's voltage to it. Should be st least 11v. I believe mine was at like 11.67 when my sensor went bad and I was having this problem.
If you turn the key to on and the dvom to 20v. If the dvom...
Sounds more like timing... but if you think it could be fuel related.
Turn the key to On, then Off, back to On, then Off, then try to start it. Prime the fuel pump a few times, maybe it will build up pressure and try to start if fuel could be an issue
Spray some ether in the throttle body and...
Your list looks an awful lot like mine!
Gunna start with the rear axle fluid and decided just to have the dealer check the driveline in phase cuz somethings seemed off for a little bit now that I can't track down.
Boomerang ball joint needs/has needed done
Check over all the undercarriage and...
Not sure which sound you mean.. if you mean the sort of humming sound, is your heat on? Defrost perhaps? If so, try it on a few cold starts with the heat setting in the off position and see if the sound is still there.
the following is for if you mean the chittering sound..
Could just be the...
Drove the Jeep to Ford Lincoln and bought myself a new car today :D kept the libby though, of course. She'll probably still get a majority of the mileage.
Like it's been said almost everybody is going to yell you go Mopar, because it's the smart thing to do.
That being said I have 2 duralast and 2 valucraft coils on mine that I've been running for at least 2 years now..
Not going to say there's no difference because there is, but personally I...
Actually sounds like a pretty convenient idea..
Except I would think with how tippy the KJs get around some turns it might get annoying to hear stuff fenangling its way around in the cargo area..
Plus say goodbye to your rearview mirror.. I realize you don't need it, but still.
Yeah they should be water tight, but like anything else on an engine, they wear.. they're rubber that gets warm/hot the whole time so they're susceptible to shrinking/hardening/cracking.
Nonetheless, many have had issues drowning out the back coil under the coolant overflow tank, think it's #6...
Could just take it in for an alignment check and mention youre getting it checked because of that.. might do it for cheaper than an alignment if that's all it needs. Depends on the shop
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