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The fuel tank is under there, use a short drill bit!

The word blocker on here is nuts! I think all the KJ's in salty places have been bitten by the rust bug! I've spent hours welding mine up!

Nice easy fix

The backplates are silly money here too, I was thinking about making a set out of steel plate, milling out the excess metal but I bought a complete axle with good ones cheaply, saved me a lot of work. Can't believe a cheap steel stamped sheet is so expensive.

Strange, here the older cars are in a fixed tax bracket, expensive new cars get hammered but thankfully mine are all 20+ years old and my wife's is an eco diesel Jeep so £30 a year tax. They are hitting the electric cars for tax next year too LOL that will upset them :-)

You could just solder a white led in it's place. I doubt you will notice a 2W difference in the bulb, it's only a glow when it's on.

If you don't mind a bit of work then swap the whole axle out. This is the cheapest and easiest option. Just check you get the same ratio, the manuals, diesels and 2.4 KJs are different. Not sure what the score is with the KK. The diff is setup for the axle it's fitted to so requires specialist...

I'm sorry I don't know, I suspect its just plug and play though.

Looks like someone sold you their problems!

Both the faults are voltage related, has the alternator output been checked? Has the battery been tested? Are all the earth leads in good condition? Check the gearbox oil level. The cuts in the insulation on the cables look like someone has been testing the wiring, did the car have these...

Just remember it's got airbags, don't stick anything over them.

Good luck

I think it's obsolete, the replacement one should be a 083, also used in VWs so should be easier to get.

Do these one night only Verified Maidens have a thing for diesel Jeeps? And is 2.5" of lift enough for them?

It would be easier just to buy another Jeep.... ;-)

The end of the tube is probably the seal face, I can't remember but I think there are JIC. Sounds like you radiator hasn't been correctly built, speak to the supplier.

Not a clue, try speaking to https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmissions/manual/ax15/

Sorry I can't guarantee that the CPS won't drop out as you are driving, when they get old they don't like heat (no idea why!) And often won't let you restart until the engine has cooled a bit. Different car but long ago my wife had a BMW, it would run for 20 minutes or so until the CPS heated...

Check the clutch fluid level, if its low look for the leak, if its ok you could put axle stands under the rear and start it up in gear (make sure you are in 2wd!) Then see if the clutch is working by stepping on both pedals, if you can't de-clutch then you have found the problem.

No, the ecu just thinks the engine isn't turning so no code, I've had it on my CRD, driving along happily, stopped to pick up my daughter, car won't restart until it cools down, I was busting for a wee too! It's a fiddle to replace, behind the exhaust downpipe.