KJScott
Full Access Member
It's been two weeks and 3 days since the install party. First, The quality of the parts is top notch.
The parts list:
Ironman front springs, shocks are yellow, thinking Ironman or Old Man Emu. Rear 4" JBA springs, Bilstein shocks. Y link extension (if you use as many washers as shown in the instructions, the lock nuts are useless), Terraflex bumpstops, JBA upper A arms. I also replaced the lower ball joints with greasable ones, and replaced CVs and intermediate shaft, new axle seals. I also opened up the A arm pockets as indicated. I only did the front one on each side and only the lower portion of each.
First week driving- just some around town driving and minor offroading one morning (pic). Then at the start of the 2nd week had an alignment done. Both before and after alignment, the ride quality over the old daystar lift is amazing. Speed bumps and 25mph are nothing. Railroad grade wash board, is smooth. Trailering my small boat is also a big improvement with the ride quality.
I have been carrying around 300 lbs of tools to aid with the rear settling down, only to take them out temporarily for the alignment last week. Still is a little high in back.
Since install, my front tires are rubbing the wheel wells by the fog light doors, this rubbing didn't happen on the daystar lift, so I am guessing the front is lower now with this lift. Now that the Y link is in a more natural position, I think my once stressed bushings and ball joint are shot. I tightened my noisy shock bolts but still have some racket back there on the right side on large bumps. But there are no squeeks and rattles from anything else. Don't tightening anything until all your parts are in (coil assy, clevis, top bolts) it will greatly help you so you don't have to fight parts to get bolts in.
Torquing everything once on the ground is key to no binding and squeeks. And think LUBE. If it moves, grease it, if it pivots, rotates, travels, grease it! If it was a pain to remove, think antiseize during install.
So my future plans are- I may have a drivers side axle seal leaking. My help was having a hard time installing the CV shaft, until I took care of it. The new seal may have been damaged. If I do have to replace the seal, I will replace both clevis spacers, 3/8 just doesn't seem to be enough, so I will buy the 1/2" spacers from JBA. I hope that will eliminate the front wheel well rubbing as well as level out the stance. I also may be replacing the boomerang assembly or just the bushings and balljoint.
If you are looking for a lift, get the Tommudd 3.5". I highly recommend it. Just do a lot of reading on this forum and get the shop manual directions, Jeepin By Al's instructions are for some reason limited and leave you guessing. Maybe they are written by people that can install the lift with their eyes closed and one arm tied.
The pic is on the side of a hill over washout and not a true depiction of the rake.
The parts list:
Ironman front springs, shocks are yellow, thinking Ironman or Old Man Emu. Rear 4" JBA springs, Bilstein shocks. Y link extension (if you use as many washers as shown in the instructions, the lock nuts are useless), Terraflex bumpstops, JBA upper A arms. I also replaced the lower ball joints with greasable ones, and replaced CVs and intermediate shaft, new axle seals. I also opened up the A arm pockets as indicated. I only did the front one on each side and only the lower portion of each.
First week driving- just some around town driving and minor offroading one morning (pic). Then at the start of the 2nd week had an alignment done. Both before and after alignment, the ride quality over the old daystar lift is amazing. Speed bumps and 25mph are nothing. Railroad grade wash board, is smooth. Trailering my small boat is also a big improvement with the ride quality.
I have been carrying around 300 lbs of tools to aid with the rear settling down, only to take them out temporarily for the alignment last week. Still is a little high in back.
Since install, my front tires are rubbing the wheel wells by the fog light doors, this rubbing didn't happen on the daystar lift, so I am guessing the front is lower now with this lift. Now that the Y link is in a more natural position, I think my once stressed bushings and ball joint are shot. I tightened my noisy shock bolts but still have some racket back there on the right side on large bumps. But there are no squeeks and rattles from anything else. Don't tightening anything until all your parts are in (coil assy, clevis, top bolts) it will greatly help you so you don't have to fight parts to get bolts in.
Torquing everything once on the ground is key to no binding and squeeks. And think LUBE. If it moves, grease it, if it pivots, rotates, travels, grease it! If it was a pain to remove, think antiseize during install.
So my future plans are- I may have a drivers side axle seal leaking. My help was having a hard time installing the CV shaft, until I took care of it. The new seal may have been damaged. If I do have to replace the seal, I will replace both clevis spacers, 3/8 just doesn't seem to be enough, so I will buy the 1/2" spacers from JBA. I hope that will eliminate the front wheel well rubbing as well as level out the stance. I also may be replacing the boomerang assembly or just the bushings and balljoint.
If you are looking for a lift, get the Tommudd 3.5". I highly recommend it. Just do a lot of reading on this forum and get the shop manual directions, Jeepin By Al's instructions are for some reason limited and leave you guessing. Maybe they are written by people that can install the lift with their eyes closed and one arm tied.
The pic is on the side of a hill over washout and not a true depiction of the rake.
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