2007 liberty cooling issue

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

dog2580

New Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2017
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Location
ohio
yesterday I replaced the water pump thermostat hoses and belt on my 2007 liberty, the water pump was leaking at the seal. Everything went fine but when I drove it it wanted to overheat so I bled it added more coolant and drove about ten minutes the temperature gauge stayed right in the middle where it has always been normally. Today I drive about ten to fifteen minutes and the gauge creeps up above normal. I was able to remove more air and I drove ten to fifteen minutes no problem. It sat for a few hours then I drove it another 15 minutes and same thing. I don’t know if there’s still air in the system, I have noticed that the recovery tank is a little below the full line or if I could possibly have a bad thermostat. Any help would be appreciated.
 

LibertyTC

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Oct 24, 2008
Messages
9,185
Reaction score
1,831
Location
B.C. Canada
If you need a new thermostat use a Mopar one, it has an incorporated bleed hole. I hope you used HOAT coolant or Zerex G-05 coolant only.
Chances are there still is air in the system, it can take a few days to get the air out.
Normally what I do is let it cool overnight, then fill reservoir back to full level.
You can also try to add coolant thru the bleed hole (top rad hose) with a small funnel to check that the rad is actually full.
Then once hot at operating temperature, I slightly loosen bleed screw on top rad hose, to help remove air and close it.
You may have to repeat this over a few days.
Run with heater on as well, do you hear any gurgling sounds coming from the heater core?
 

dog2580

New Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2017
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Location
ohio
If you need a new thermostat use a Mopar one, it has an incorporated bleed hole. I hope you used HOAT coolant or Zerex G-05 coolant only.
Chances are there still is air in the system, it can take a few days to get the air out.
Normally what I do is let it cool overnight, then fill reservoir back to full level.
You can also try to add coolant thru the bleed hole (top rad hose) with a small funnel to check that the rad is actually full.
Then once hot at operating temperature, I slightly loosen bleed screw on top rad hose, to help remove air and close it.
You may have to repeat this over a few days.
Run with heater on as well, do you hear any gurgling sounds coming from the heater core?
 

dog2580

New Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2017
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Location
ohio
I did use zerex and the radiator is full. The recovery tank has dropped below the full level a few times and I’ve topped it off. The thermostat that I put in it was from advance auto.
 

uss2defiant

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2014
Messages
3,600
Reaction score
157
Location
Tucson, Arizona
one common mistake is the bleed bleeder was installed at the wrong position or installing the thermostat the wrong direction.
 

HoosierJeeper

Gold Supporter/Admin
Staff member
Administrator
Joined
Jan 20, 2009
Messages
20,874
Reaction score
299
Location
Western WI
My bleed procedure is to fill through the bleed hole till it comes out, put the screw back in, fill the tank to the normal full line, let it run for 10-15 mins with the heat on till the level in the tank drops, fill it again, done. Check it in a few days.
 
Top