3-5 inch lift

[Luke]

I don’t know how far down the rabbit hole you’ve travelled… but lifting does not necessarily equal better articulation.

 

[Luke]

I have this guys brain bookmarked
No it’s not Jeep but the IFS is generally equivalent.

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[KingKJ]

Sadly she rusted to pieces in 2016… RIP

I think I went through 2 sets (not extended) and rebuilt one… in the ~5 yrs I actually used it off-road. Not horrible but I would have rather not .. lol.

That’s why on my next IFS lift I actually used my head instead of my heart.

that isn't bad, though if the same thing happens with the extended travel ones it get expensive, they are like triple the price of a normal cv. there are also the JBA upper control arms that help improve stuff as well.

 

[KingKJ]

I don’t know how far down the rabbit hole you’ve travelled… but lifting does not necessarily equal better articulation.

yeah I know, that's why I'm looking at doing an actual spring lift rather than just blocks and the extended travel cv axles with the JBA UCAs give better articulation, I'm not sure what else I can do other than that, but I'm sure there might be more.

 

[KingKJ]

yeah I know, that's why I'm looking at doing an actual spring lift rather than just blocks and the extended travel cv axles with the JBA UCAs give better articulation, I'm not sure what else I can do other than that, but I'm sure there might be more.

also strut spacers don't compress the springs they just move the whole assembly down rather than force spring compression

 

[Luke]

Yes I had JBA’s

If you turn your phone to landscape you can see my setup in my signature.

 

[u2slow]

I haven't had any trouble with the CVs, but I did drop the cradle 3/4" to help things out.

 

[ikuo78]

also strut spacers don't compress the springs they just move the whole assembly down rather than force spring compression

As for the front, the stock down travel is just under 120mm.
If you set this to 140mm, the upper arm or knuckle will hit the spring.
In other words, the additional lift that can be obtained by extending the shock length with spacers etc. is about 20mm.
It seems that this problem can be solved by using a coil with a small coil ID.
Bilstein's front shock has a spring receiver that is a separate part, so I think it would be possible to make it smaller to about ID60-65 and find a general-purpose ID60-65 spring.
You will also have to make an upper mount for the coil.
If you do that, it will look like JBA's adjustable.
There may be CB engineering.
I've never done it, and I don't know anyone who has done it.
I think it looks interesting.

If you use a 2 inch lift with a spacer, won't it make a strange noise when the shock is fully extended?

 

[Luke]

yeah I know, that's why I'm looking at doing an actual spring lift rather than just blocks and the extended travel cv axles with the JBA UCAs give better articulation, I'm not sure what else I can do other than that, but I'm sure there might be more.

There is … an SFA swap

 

[KingKJ]

If you use a 2 inch lift with a spacer, won't it make a strange noise when the shock is fully extended?

I want to say it does, whenever I am fully extended there is a loud popping/banging noise, no clue if this has to do with my block lift but idk what else could be wrong

 

[KingKJ]

There is … an SFA swap

True but I don't think I want to go that deep into the suspension of my car

 

[ikuo78]

I want to say it does, whenever I am fully extended there is a loud popping/banging noise, no clue if this has to do with my block lift but idk what else could be wrong

If you jack the car so that the suspension is extended, you can check the location of the collision.
There may be individual differences, but when using a spacer lift, the shock length will be longer by the spacer, so the down travel will increase and in most cases the knuckle will hit the coil.
At that time, the upper joint receives a thrust load that is not normally applied, so it wears out faster.

If you want to use that range, you'll need to make some ingenuity.

It seems that the only option is to shift the connection position of the upper arm and knuckle outward or make the coil ID smaller.
The former is almost impossible, or rather, it is a one-off production.
Even if you do that, you'll still run into CV angle and pinion angle challenges.
This means that many people change their coils and lift without increasing down travel.

 

[duderz7]

I want to say it does, whenever I am fully extended there is a loud popping/banging noise, no clue if this has to do with my block lift but idk what else could be wrong

Likely uca contacting the spring. I set mine up with a piece of paper as a feeler gauge between coil and uca adjusting at clevis. It's a lot quieter now.

 

[duderz7]

If you jack the car so that the suspension is extended, you can check the location of the collision.
There may be individual differences, but when using a spacer lift, the shock length will be longer by the spacer, so the down travel will increase and in most cases the knuckle will hit the coil.
At that time, the upper joint receives a thrust load that is not normally applied, so it wears out faster.

If you want to use that range, you'll need to make some ingenuity.

It seems that the only option is to shift the connection position of the upper arm and knuckle outward or make the coil ID smaller.
The former is almost impossible, or rather, it is a one-off production.
Even if you do that, you'll still run into CV angle and pinion angle challenges.
This means that many people change their coils and lift without increasing down travel.

It's not approved by jba, but you can mount the ball joint to the bottom of the uca which moves it away from the coil, but then you must also drop the cradle to correct suspension geo. It's a can of worms I considered briefly before deciding I put myself in too many off camber situations to make this thing any more top heavy.

 

[Shankster]

I'm a bit late to the party here. I think I got more than advertised (around 3") lift in the rear with OME / Bilstein and added 3 conduit nuts on top of the clevis to raise the front to the same. I don't think I'd want to go higher - already borderline scary in off-camber situations like Duderz7 says and some of the suspension components are at max angles. I have looked at those extended travel CVAs and didn't think the price was bad for what you get. Have not read any reviews on them. Rock Auto has them for $127 and $162 - if and when mine fail I think I'll give them a try:

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