ABS/Speedometer Issue

[GunnerSchenck]

Hello all,
Wasn't quite sure whether to post this is this section or the electronics section, so i apologize to any reader or moderator beforehand for any redundancies. That being said, here we go.
I have a 2003 sport 2x4(yes, unfortunately) but thats not the issue at hand.
I recently changed my front hubs/bearing assembly because they've been bad for awhile.
Went fine, but after driving for about 20 miles, the speedometer quit and my abs, parking brake turned on, followed by the check engine low a few miles after.
My first thought was the abs sensors on the hubs i installed were junk(as the parts were cheaply ordered [Detroit Axle]), so i got new ones from 1AAuto.com and installed them.
Everything went fine and the bearings ride awesome.. even better than the other new ones.. but one thing, the lights stayed on and my speedometer stayed off.
So i pig-tailed in(with heat shrink splice connectors) the car side of the abs connector on the drivers side in the engine bay. Assumed perhaps it wasn't staying connected as it was very brittle and slightly broken when i took it apart from being off its designated stud and sitting next to the engine.
But the new connector changed nothing.
So i checked all the fuses, and not a single fuse blown in the car.
Reset the instrument panel(turning vehicle to on while pressing the odometer in.. vehicle was off though)

Any ideas? Can i test the continuity/resistance of the abs sensors if i take them out of the wheel hubs? could changing these i have accidentally pulled on the wiring for the abs connector at the rear axle and loosened it?
Any ideas are greatly appreciated. Thank You.

 

[tommudd]

So speedo etc was working ok before ?
Could be just a fluke that they all messed up but oil light could just be the oil pressure switch located above the oil filter
The speedo would or could be the wiring from the rear diff to the body, wires break and stops working, pretty common and there are repair kits

 

[teeje]

Common issue on these i swear. I went through maybe 5 pigtails. In the end, what solved it all was getting a new sensor, changing the diff fluid, new pigtail and extending the wires. I also bundled that with weather proof connectors that seal when heated up so water cannot get in, liquid tape around the connector, and all crimp connectors. Replaced as much wire as I could wrspped the wires in that protective plastic stuff (wire loom?) All good now. Anyhow, just my 2 cents. Don't knkw about the abs. I don't have that junk on mine. Letnus know what happens

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[drewwenmoth]

Craftsman sells an obd2 with abs scannerfor under 100 at sears. Just picked one up last week and scanned my abs, told me intermittent failure drivers side front, new hub and reset the abs computer with t and all good! Maybe pick one up and scan your abs system and it should at least point you in the right direction of what wheel is failing


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[GunnerSchenck]

So speedo etc was working ok before ?
Could be just a fluke that they all messed up but oil light could just be the oil pressure switch located above the oil filter
The speedo would or could be the wiring from the rear diff to the body, wires break and stops working, pretty common and there are repair kits

Yes, all of it worked fine prior, and the oil light is the only light that isn't on

 

[GunnerSchenck]

Craftsman sells an obd2 with abs scannerfor under 100 at sears. Just picked one up last week and scanned my abs, told me intermittent failure drivers side front, new hub and reset the abs computer with t and all good! Maybe pick one up and scan your abs system and it should at least point you in the right direction of what wheel is failing


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Good info! Probably the way I'll be going if it doesn't clear today.


Speaking of direction, would anyone be able to confirm for me that both of the wheel speed sensors are facing toward the front of the vehicle???
Just felt underneath and I'm pretty sure I have both facing forward, but will be taking the wheels off shortly to confirm/change and look for any difference.
If anyone can confirm that for me though, be greatly appreciated

 

[Billwill]

Speedometer will run off the diff sensor...lots of problems with the wiring/connector at this sensor. Check the wiring going to this sensor is not fraying on the park-brake cable or anything else nearby.

The Cluster Excercise does not reset any errors...it is not a diagnostic tool but merely an excercise of the cluster lamps and gauges.

I had a bad connection on the rear diff sensor on my non-ABS 2002 Export CRD Manual.
This caused the red CEL to light up and the speedo to not work properly...would go to a max of about 50 kmph. After fixing the problem it took about two weeks of drive cycles before the CEL light went out which is normal according to the documentation.

Best to scan for the error to see which sensor is causing the problem.

 

[GunnerSchenck]

Speedometer will run off the diff sensor...lots of problems with the wiring/connector at this sensor. Check the wiring going to this sensor is not fraying on the park-brake cable or anything else nearby.

The Cluster Excercise does not reset any errors...it is not a diagnostic tool but merely an excercise of the cluster lamps and gauges.

I had a bad connection on the rear diff sensor on my non-ABS 2002 Export CRD Manual.
This caused the red CEL to light up and the speedo to not work properly...would go to a max of about 50 kmph. After fixing the problem it took about two weeks of drive cycles before the CEL light went out which is normal according to the documentation.

Best to scan for the error to see which sensor is causing the problem.

Thank you for the information.. I'll be buying a scan tool shortly to determine which sensors aren't taking a reading.
I've had it scanned at auto zone but all it gave me was a wheel speed sensor malfunction, so immediately thought duh, because I just did the front hubs. There's quite a bit of slack between the front abs sensors and the rear differential, which seems to be going through the passenger compartment, so I feel like it's unlikely I caused an issue with this wiring during front hub replacement.
I've looked the rear abs sensor over quite thoroughly, including this morning when taking out the driveshaft to do the u joints and can not see any visible damage, but I did just take the connector off the rear abs sensor to test continuity/resistance and only got a reading from the ground side.
I'm going to go pick up a scan tool and see if I can't pinpoint which sensor is going flimflammery

 

[CactusJacked]

Speaking of direction, would anyone be able to confirm for me that both of the wheel speed sensors are facing toward the front of the vehicle???
Just felt underneath and I'm pretty sure I have both facing forward, but will be taking the wheels off shortly to confirm/change and look for any difference.
If anyone can confirm that for me though, be greatly appreciated

Yes, both sides face forward.

 

[GunnerSchenck]

Thank you very much, I appreciate it. Just nice to have a functional comparison. If anyone has quick access, or has recently taken off the wheel and can confirm... anybody know which side has the correlated loom close to the sensor on the wiring for the front sensors? Pretty sure only one side has loom, even on my stocks before.. and I'm pretty sure I have them on right, and both are facing forward but just wanted to check

 

[GunnerSchenck]

Nevermind, just watched 1aautos install video and saw the direction and that the passengers side doesn't have the loom.
Therefore I have them on correctly I suppose.
Perhaps I should be spending my time looking further at the back one as suggested.
Autozones duralast sensor for the rear is only 17 dollars so I may get it tomorrow when I go there to pick up my ordered u joints because they didn't arrive today..
I bought a craftsman obdII/abs scan tool, but got no error codes even though my dash panel looks pretty much the exact opposite of how it should..
I'll take it for a drive once the u joints are in to kick the error codes again and see if I can't get a reading to look further into the problem..
So long as the new rear sensor doesn't fix it, that is.
Just seems like an odd coincidence for the problem to be at the rear when I never worked anywhere near that area and the problem pretty much correlated with the timing of the work up front?

 

[teeje]

Nevermind, just watched 1aautos install video and saw the direction and that the passengers side doesn't have the loom.
Therefore I have them on correctly I suppose.
Perhaps I should be spending my time looking further at the back one as suggested.
Autozones duralast sensor for the rear is only 17 dollars so I may get it tomorrow when I go there to pick up my ordered u joints because they didn't arrive today..
I bought a craftsman obdII/abs scan tool, but got no error codes even though my dash panel looks pretty much the exact opposite of how it should..
I'll take it for a drive once the u joints are in to kick the error codes again and see if I can't get a reading to look further into the problem..
So long as the new rear sensor doesn't fix it, that is.
Just seems like an odd coincidence for the problem to be at the rear when I never worked anywhere near that area and the problem pretty much correlated with the timing of the work up front?

Just go mopar. Its about the same price. Get the pigtail too. You're gonna have issues if the sensor dpesnt work

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[Billwill]

I agree with teeje here....get the Mopar sensor.

I have seen many posts where non-Mopar sensor does not work!

 

[GunnerSchenck]

Just wanted to revive the thread for an update.
Ended up purchasing a Craftsman code reader with abs ability for around $70. Not shabby and works well.
Pulled the codes, got no powertrain codes, and 6 abs codes.
The abs codes were as follows
-Left front sensor circuit failure
-Left front wheel speed/signal failure
-Right front wheel speed/signal failure
-Right rear sensor circuit failure
-Right rear wheel speed/signal failure
-Undervoltage

I then decided to check voltage to each of the three abs sensors and got these measurements:
-Battery: 12.24V
-Left Front: 11.21V
-Right Front: 11.21V
-Rear: 11.23V

I decided that perhaps the codes had been kicked somehow by disconnecting the abs sensors while doing work and decided to simply clear the codes and see if they return upon start-up.
I've moved the car around in the garage with it running and had the Jeep warm up fully a few times when doing other work and the codes have yet to peek back, lights are all off..
BUT.. i have not yet road tested the vehicle until a few more things are fixed, such as the power steering issue i just posted about in a different thread.
So, i will revive the thread once more after ive driven the old girl around a bit, to confirm whether or not the codes return.
Thank you all for your help thusfar! :Violin:

 

[GunnerSchenck]

Figured I would try to revive the original post rather than start a new one..
Okay, so took the Jeep out for a test drive after doing a bit of work and finally have narrowed down this abs issue and speedometer issue which persists. I believe that those who posted at the start of the thread were onto something.
Results now..
Only one abs code and it's for the right rear wheel speed signal failure..
Unplugged the sensor to test the voltage getting to the sensor and it is receiving just under 12v (11.68)..
So I've taken off the rear sensor and am going to replace it and see where that leaves me..
Just wanted to see if anybody has any input they'd like to add..
Also..judging by the fluid on the end of the sensor, I'd say I'm about due for a fluid change in my rear axle..yuck.. anyways.
Thank you all!

 

[GunnerSchenck]

New duralast rear wheel speed sensor.. now everything is good to go.
Was going to get from the local jeep dealer for 37, but it was on back order so decided to just go with the duralast because it was available and 15 dollars(and had AZ rewards so didn't even pay for it).. problems gone..finally.. on to the next lol

 

[dac44444]

What do you mean "Face Forward" ?

 

[GunnerSchenck]

So that the ABS sensor on the hub assembly "Face Forward".
The mounting points of the hub assembly is triangular shaped and if the hub is mounted so that the abs sensor is facing the rear of the vehicle or downward, you would not receive correct signal due to the fact that the sensor would be reading the correct wind flow through the gap between the tone ring and sensor.
Especially if one is mounted correctly and the other is not.. plus then you'd have trouble correctly lining up the wire for the abs sensor to the clips for it on the knuckle and brake hose

 

[dac44444]

My 05 has ABS Light ON, Brake Light OFF, NO Odometer/Trip, Changed ALL Sensors still no change? Oh, and GPS is messed up??

 

[GunnerSchenck]

Does your speedometer work?