Anyone use these guys for replacement engines?

[tjkj2002]

How does a multi-cylinder cat converter trip a cylinder specific misfire?

It will actually cause all the cylinders on that bank to misfire but 1 may misfire worse then the others,just enough to trip a specific cylinder code,due to a slight(or major) problem with that specific cylinder.A slightly plugged injector,lower compression,bad rings,mis-aligned rings,poor cylinder wall condition,out of round cylinder,to big of bore for the piston/rings(it happens on remaned engines a lot),improper valve sealing,weak coil,bad spark plug,bad coil driver,wiring issue for coil,and many more things can cause just enough difference to make 1 cylinder actually misfire bad enough over the others on that bank to trip the MIL while the others will not.All engines regardless misfire all the time(not all the time but misfire on occasion due to freak causes),even in perfect running condition but it's not enough to feel or meet the requirements to trip the MIL.

 

[CactusJacked]

I thought of those mechanical possibilities as well, but with a "new" engine, I should hope not. Doesn't mean it's not possible tho. I don't think a leaking intake manifold gasket was mentioned yet, or a vacuum leak as a possibility.
Oh, and to my defense on the EGR and MAF, for some reason his avatar makes the car look like a newer one. Should have paid more attention to the user name instead, not that that always tells what you really now have.

 

[tjkj2002]

I thought of those mechanical possibilities as well, but with a "new" engine, I should hope not. Doesn't mean it's not possible tho. I don't think a leaking intake manifold gasket was mentioned yet, or a vacuum leak as a possibility.
Oh, and to my defense on the EGR and MAF, for some reason his avatar makes the car look like a newer one. Should have paid more attention to the user name instead, not that that always tells what you really now have.

You will never get a "new" engine unless you buy a "new" vehicle these days.They all are remaned/re-built engines and some of those mass produced remaned engine companies you can get some variations in quality compared to a smaller machine shop doing a rebuild but there is a price difference also.Makes a big difference also if it was a long block or short block replacement.


A leaking intake gasket will not cause a misfire without setting lean codes unless it's leaking coolant into the plug wells(4.6/5.4 Ford V8's) but that would be "oh that is the problem" by any half witt.


Other issues could be lash adjusters or a bad cam.

 

[CactusJacked]

Yes, I know not new new, hence the use of quote marks "new".

 

[Snail Farmer]

Just get an LS1 engine straight from GM and be done with it :signs6::superhack:

 

[02redKJ]

Just talked to the mechanic again. He did a leak down test on all cylinders to see if there was any abnormalities. All passed with flying colors. He said the same thing about the codes with a vacuum leak, but checked anyway. Could find nothing. He has opened up the wiring harness to see if there is any problem there. He said he looked from ECU to coil pack and it looks fine and passed continuity for open and ohm testing to see if there is any abnormal resistance in the wire. All Good. He is now looking at the O2 sensors, took him most of the day to work on the wiring harness, so he will look at the O2 sensors tomorrow.

 

[02redKJ]

I wonder what today will bring for my Ms. Libby today. I hope it gets resolved soon though. I sure do miss her.

 

[tommudd]

Look at it this way, you're not putting a lot of miles on it or wearing out the tires :laughing1:

 

[02redKJ]

Yeah, but I need time to finish breaking it in before my trip with the family on the 27th. The new engine only has about 100 miles on it, I wanted at least 500 to 1000 miles on it before the trip. I don't want to rush it. Besides I just put new tires on it. I put a set of General Grabbers on it. So far they seem to be OK too, but I haven't been able to take them up to the snow yet to see how they'll do either. I have to go over the High Sierra Mountains & the Cascades on my upcoming trip to Reno from the Oregon Coast. I bought this Jeep so I would feel confident on this trip. So far, I'm not so confident. I would hate to have to take my wife's Suzuki XL-7 instead. That car is just that a car, and it is so uncomfortable to drive.

 

[02redKJ]

Well, They didn't get it fixed. So now I am without it for another weekend. So much for having time to drive it huh? Oh well. The Lord will provide the time and the way for me to do it once they finish it.

I guess playing with the O2 sensor yielded no positive results, neither did testing the wiring, so they are now ordering an ECU. I think I remember telling them to do this on Tuesday. I have no control over where they are getting it from, so please don't tell me OEM is better. etc... When it does out again after my trip, I will replace it with the parts of my choice, I just do not have the money now to insist on it.

 

[tommudd]

My prediction is they will get it repaired finally on the 19th.
Then you can put it out on the road, open it up and test it out on the 20th, still plenty of time before you leave on the trip.

 

[02redKJ]

I don't like your prediction.

 

[profdlp]

For what it may be worth, I had your situation in mind when I drove to the gym just a little while ago. I have the Garmin Mechanic and can monitor some stuff on the computer which is not included in the instrument panel. It was 9F when I went out and the intake air temp was also 9F. (Duh, since it had been sitting there all day.) The idle in the parking lot was between 850-900 rpm. On my way home, the engine had retained enough heat that even though it was colder outside the intake air read 54F. This time my idle was about 650 rpm. When I got home and the coolant temp was at full normal (196F for my Jeep) I sat in the parking lot for a while. Intake air temp was now above 100F. The rpm at that point stayed between 591 and 612 for several minutes. I had turned everything else off (heater blower, radio, etc) and it was steady in that range.

What's the point of all this? If they are setting the idle when the thing is cold it may be that they are setting it too low. That won't explain away any engine codes, but might be at least a hint to narrow things down a mite.

 

[02redKJ]

Mine does the same thing. When I first start, the idle is about 800. Then drops when warm. The numbers I mentioned before we're when at running temps. Thanks though!

 

[02redKJ]

I finally got the oil strained. Keep in mind, this is after only 40 miles from a fresh build on the engine. Can you imagine what the filter must look like?

Can you say Ewwwww?

 

[profdlp]

That is a real eye-opener! :icon_eek:

 

[02redKJ]

There are two 1/2" long pine needles in the pictures that did not come from inside the motor. One is on the left side of the pic, and the other is down by the right hand lower clamp. They fell in off of the towel I had covering the oil pan. I saw them fall in when I uncovered the pan.

 

[CactusJacked]

Now what's that famous line? Oh yeah, Did I call it or what!
Mark this page to show people when they say changing the oil soon after a rebuild is a waste. I too would be curious to see the innards of the oil filter. Considering the overall investment of an engine, the cost of oil is cheap.

 

[Snail Farmer]

When I bought my new Chevy I did the first oil change at 250 miles. I had plenty of people tell me it was a waste of time. Think I'll show them these pics.

Sent from my HTC One using the power of Mary's purse

 

[offroad cowboy]

When i build engines i change the oil at 500. 1500. And 2500 miles to make shure they are in good shape and i cut the filters apart to make shure theres not a excessive ammount of metal in it.
A little bit of metal is normal but in 8 years id say that is alot of metal did they use breakin oil in it ?

sent by telegraph from my k30